How hard can you work a tractor before letting it cool for a bit

GERMAN ROCKS

Basically have two tractors but the bigger tractor doesn't fit under one of the canopy for agitating. This means I need to use the older smaller tractor for this job. Tractor would be working at its limit and would be getting hot after half an hours work. How far can one leave it go in the gauge before leaving it cool? I'm not under fierce pressure so have the time to let it cool for 15-20 minutes if needed.

Gauge in normal conditions works at half ways. would normally stop and let it cool when it goes 3/4s of the way up. Are you still safe to work away until it reaches the start of the red?

Renegade Mechanic

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

Basically have two tractors but the bigger tractor doesn't fit under one of the canopy for agitating. This means I need to use the older smaller tractor for this job. Tractor would be working at its limit and would be getting hot after half an hours work. How far can one leave it go in the gauge before leaving it cool? I'm not under fierce pressure so have the time to let it cool for 15-20 minutes if needed.

Gauge in normal conditions works at half ways. would normally stop and let it cool when it goes 3/4s of the way up. Are you still safe to work away until it reaches the start of the red?

What kind of tractor? Water cooled? Even though it's working hard, I'd look over things that can cause less than ideal running conditions. Namely that the air filter is clean and young, as after a year or more in somewhat humid to temperate climates, most filter filling starts to swell.
All the other filters and engine oil aswell, ideally changed each year.

After that you have the thermostat, I'd make sure it's opening properly as they stiffen up considerably with age.

Then the radiator itself. I've often come across 30+ year old tractors with the same % flow capacity left in their radiators...

GERMAN ROCKS

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

What kind of tractor? Water cooled? Even though it's working hard, I'd look over things that can cause less than ideal running conditions. Namely that the air filter is clean and young, as after a year or more in somewhat humid to temperate climates, most filter filling starts to swell.
All the other filters and engine oil aswell, ideally changed each year.

After that you have the thermostat, I'd make sure it's opening properly as they stiffen up considerably with age.

Then the radiator itself. I've often come across 30+ year old tractors with the same % flow capacity left in their radiators...

ford 6600. as it happens all filters are new in April. It was serviced by a mechanic as the brakes needed to be done. He also checked the thermostat as I asked him to check if it was working correctly.

Now I suppose the rad is a first day job alright but looks perfect. Finns are spotless as I blew out all the dust. could the rad be defective in otherways?

any other was to improve cooling?

tanko

If you are agitating a tank for more than 15 minutes and it hasnt mixed fully i'd say that the slurry is too thick and you'd be better taking some out and putting in water or pig slurry and then mixing again.
When I'm agitating I take off the covers on either side of the engine to improve air flow into the radiator.

invicta

tanko wrote: »

When I'm agitating I take off the covers on either side of the engine to improve air flow into the radiator.

Should NEVER do, as it decreases the air throu-flow!
Side covers actually help to suck in more air.--That's why they are there

Markcheese

Flush the rad...
Agitate early in the morning or late when its cooler ?

Renegade Mechanic

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

ford 6600. as it happens all filters are new in April. It was serviced by a mechanic as the brakes needed to be done. He also checked the thermostat as I asked him to check if it was working correctly.

Now I suppose the rad is a first day job alright but looks perfect. Finns are spotless as I blew out all the dust. could the rad be defective in otherways?

any other was to improve cooling?

As mentioned, avoid removing too many covers.
Also, radiators slowly get deposits put around the pipework flowing through them over time. This not only reduces the rate the coolant can flow through, but also forms an unwanted scale barrier between the coolant and the fins outside the pipe it's flowing through.

Generally doesn't take too long to remove and flush a radiator. It can be done at home but the radiator crowds always have the best equipment for flushing, pressure and flow testing. They can also repair miniature leaks, too. Those little crystalline deposits on the outsides of some radiators is miniscule amounts of coolant escaping and reacting with oxygen and heat.

Sounds like you take good care of it, so I'll safely assume the fan belt isn't loose or worn.

Other than that, is there anything to be said for holding the engine at a somewhat lower speed? Or is it guaranteed to conk..

f140

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

As mentioned, avoid removing too many covers.
Also, radiators slowly get deposits put around the pipework flowing through them over time. This not only reduces the rate the coolant can flow through, but also forms an unwanted scale barrier between the coolant and the fins outside the pipe it's flowing through.

Generally doesn't take too long to remove and flush a radiator. It can be done at home but the radiator crowds always have the best equipment for flushing, pressure and flow testing. They can also repair miniature leaks, too. Those little crystalline deposits on the outsides of some radiators is miniscule amounts of coolant escaping and reacting with oxygen and heat.

Sounds like you take good care of it, so I'll safely assume the fan belt isn't loose or worn.

Other than that, is there anything to be said for holding the engine at a somewhat lower speed? Or is it guaranteed to conk..

fan belt seems in very good condition as well and is very tight. I suppose I am probably overly working the tractor alright but it only needs to do this job three times a year.


Might go away alright and get the rad flushed by a crowd for the sake of it.


Would a new water pump improve things any bit do you think or would it just be a waste of money?

Mech1

could you run a slowish water supply over the rad or engine to take away excess heat while doing that job?

cute geoge

Wash out radiator with acid descaler leaving it in overnight ,do this 5 or 6 times and it should do the trick

Renegade Mechanic

f140 wrote: »

fan belt seems in very good condition as well and is very tight. I suppose I am probably overly working the tractor alright but it only needs to do this job three times a year.


Might go away alright and get the rad flushed by a crowd for the sake of it.


Would a new water pump improve things any bit do you think or would it just be a waste of money?

I'd completely forgotten about the water pump
If it's easy to get at, I'd remove it, because there's only two things that can go wrong with a water pump. The first is rather immediately apparent in noise and coolant leakage, and the second is the impeller itself. If you were inclined, you could remove it and check for missing impeller blades (happens the odd time) or that the impeller is well stuck on to the shaft going through to the pulley.

If the impeller is made of metal, it may have even corroded away, severely reducing output that no radiator could compensate for.


Honestly, I should have thought of that. Slow day

flossy1

Markcheese wrote: »

Flush the rad...
Agitate early in the morning or late when its cooler ?

Agitating is a very good way of seeing if your tractor is any good