Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Uh Oh

  • 19-06-2016 6:23am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭


    I recently had to change the rear derailleur and noticed that one of the bolts on the rear hangar is corroded in place and the slot for Allen key is rounded (not by me to be fair).

    So I tried to remove it using a stud extractor. I drilled out the bolt but the stud extractor didn't do anything. I then inserted a torx screwdriver into the hole and managed to turn the head of the bolt. Unfortunately it has sheared off.

    I now have the remain of a drilled out steel bolt in the aluminum frame. I'm cautious of doing much more in case I damage the frame but I can't see how I can get he remnants of the bolt off the frame.

    Any thoughts?

    Can anyone recommend a bike shop (north side) that might be able to help?

    I'd need someone who might be able to retap the bolt hole if needs be

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,026 ✭✭✭cajonlardo


    I recently had to change the rear derailleur and noticed that one of the bolts on the rear hangar is corroded in place and the slot for Allen key is rounded (not by me to be fair).

    So I tried to remove it using a stud extractor. I drilled out the bolt but the stud extractor didn't do anything. I then inserted a torx screwdriver into the hole and managed to turn the head of the bolt. Unfortunately it has sheared off.

    I now have the remain of a drilled out steel bolt in the aluminum frame. I'm cautious of doing much more in case I damage the frame but I can't see how I can get he remnants of the bolt off the frame.

    Any thoughts?

    Can anyone recommend a bike shop (north side) that might be able to help?

    I'd need someone who might be able to retap the bolt hole if needs be

    Thanks

    Find a machine shop locally.
    If you haven't an idea where, then ask local mechanics they should know. I thought I'd killed a disc fork when I broke a bolt in the post mount. I tried drilling and an easi out but I just made a hash of it ( I'd be used to doing work like that and usually no prob). Brought to a lad with a machine shop in bray and he did a fantastic job and only charged a €10. Lesson learnt :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    You could try to drill out to as close to the original size as possible and then take a tap to it. Be wary of the drill bit moving off centre though.
    You could also try gently tapping in a torx bit to the existing hole and turning it though, if you break that, you're finished.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    ...Can anyone recommend a bike shop (north side) that might be able to help?..
    Richie's in Swords should be able to sort it out. Billy removed a brake bolt from the forks of one of my bikes which had deeply corroded and which I had further damaged trying to remove. I'm not sure how he did it as he just replied "with great difficulty" when asked!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    If there is some of the stud sticking out still, try grabbing it with some molegrips (the locking type) and turn it out. If that fails you will need an extractor (easy-out)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    Thanks everyone. I'll try Ritchie's.

    The hanger features two bolts and I managed to get the second one out. I was then able to replace the original hangar which was a bit bent. One bolt holds it in place quite well and the wheel itself also helps. I may resort to a bit of proper bodging and use a cable tie on the second bolt hole which really only prevents rotation of the hanger. That rotation can't happen with the wheel in place (I hope!)


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I had a similar issue about 7 years ago. The hanger is still in position. When I remove the rear wheel, the hanger is loose, but once the wheel is in place, its fine.
    So if your gears are working and the only issue is the hanger is loose, when the wheel is not on the bike, just leave it as is?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    Cheers 07lapierre. Thinking about it, I'll see how it goes before getting the second hole tapped. I took the bike for a spin and the gears are working fine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Cheers 07lapierre. Thinking about it, I'll see how it goes before getting the second hole tapped. I took the bike for a spin and the gears are working fine

    Like I say..My bike has one bolt holding in the hanger...its been like that for 7 years now and no issues with the performance of the bike. When I bring the bike abroad, i always secure the hanger with a chain grip:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/bbb-chaingrip-tool-btl50/rp-prod29802

    I have looked at putting another bolt in, but it would interfere with the positioning of the rear axle (and the tyre would rub off the frame). I'd have to grind down the bolt and possible re-shape it. Just not worth the hassle as its fine as it is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭youtheman


    cajonlardo wrote: »
    I recently had to change the rear derailleur and noticed that one of the bolts on the rear hangar is corroded in place and the slot for Allen key is rounded (not by me to be fair).

    So I tried to remove it using a stud extractor. I drilled out the bolt but the stud extractor didn't do anything. I then inserted a torx screwdriver into the hole and managed to turn the head of the bolt. Unfortunately it has sheared off.

    I now have the remain of a drilled out steel bolt in the aluminum frame. I'm cautious of doing much more in case I damage the frame but I can't see how I can get he remnants of the bolt off the frame.

    Any thoughts?

    Can anyone recommend a bike shop (north side) that might be able to help?

    I'd need someone who might be able to retap the bolt hole if needs be

    Thanks

    Find a machine shop locally.
    If you haven't an idea where, then ask local mechanics they should know. I thought I'd killed a disc fork when I broke a bolt in the post mount. I tried drilling and an easi out but I just made a hash of it ( I'd be used to doing work like that and usually no prob). Brought to a lad with a machine shop in bray and he did a fantastic job and only charged a 10. Lesson learnt :)
    Second this. Sheared the head of one of my seat post clamp bolts. Was thinking of getting a drill and an 'easy out'. Then took it to a local machine shop. He said he was going to have to braze some metal onto the bolt and then grip it with something. Left it to him and he sorted it out for me. No hassle or stress for me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,026 ✭✭✭cajonlardo


    youtheman wrote: »
    Second this. Sheared the head of one of my seat post clamp bolts. Was thinking of getting a drill and an 'easy out'. Then took it to a local machine shop. He said he was going to have to braze some metal onto the bolt and then grip it with something. Left it to him and he sorted it out for me. No hassle or stress for me.

    In my case it was a brake postmount in a carbon fork. It never crossed my once since the repair when descending - peace of mind. I do all my own work on my cars as well as my bikes and I am well used to drilling out bolts and dealing with snags. Sometimes its best to get someone who has precision equipment and the experience and the training because its the difference between 100% and "might work" :)


  • Advertisement
Advertisement