Mazda 6 Brakes

O.A.P

On Sunday last , I noticed an unusual noise while driving so I got out, and noticed the driver side rear wheel was covered in brake dust. I also noticed a big groove in the disc. I thought that caliper had seized but when I took everything apart , the caliper wound back easy enough. The pads were down to bear metal and the disc was loose as in fell off when I took I took the brake caliper carrier off. ( I thought this must be what caused the problem.)


There is a hole on the disc and on the hub for a retaining screw but there was none in there and I had assumed it had loosened and fallen out. But when I went to change the pads and disc on the opposite side the disc was tight but no retaining screw there either. (Maybe there is no retaining screw on the Mazda 6?)


I intend to replace the disc and pads and hopefully that's enough, no need for a new caliper?


The Mazda 6's brake fluid reservoir and clutch fluid reservoir are the same so does this make any difference to the normal procedure of bleeding the brakes?
I have never bled the brakes on this set-up before.


Thanks for any help,
Sorry for the long post.

ARGINITE

The retaining screws are really only useful during the assembly of the car, the noise was due to the worn brake pads.
Check all dust boots on the calipers and as long as they retract correctly they they will be fine. Also check the slide pins on the carrier and grease if necessary.

As for bleeding the brakes if you are doing a fluid change then you will need to bleed the clutch in the same manner as the brakes. If the brake fluid is still within spec then you should not need to bleed the brakes if you don't disconnect the calipers during the work as with the new pads the reservoir will probably be over full.

O.A.P

I took off the caliper yesterday evening to check if it was seized or not, so quite a bit of brake fluid has been lost from the system and it will need to be bled.
So do I bleed brakes first as normal (further from the master cylinder first ) and then the clutch (bled from the slave cylinder bleed nipple )
Or clutch first ?
Thanks for your help ARGINITE

ARGINITE

When I change the fluid on my RX8 (same setup) I do clutch first followed by brakes working from the furthest away from the master cylinder.

biko

Do cylinder first
The fluid will then be fresh in the lines when you start do the brake bleeds

O.A.P

Thanks lads
Got it finished this morning no trouble .








I have axel stands 4 of them but any jack I have will not lift the mazda high enough to get them under it. So I had the car on timber blocks while I got the engine under tray off and it was way too tight.
Are there any better stands that can fit under 250 mm and lift up to 500 or maybe 600mm ?