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Ferroli Immersion Element

  • 30-05-2016 4:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭


    Evening all,

    I had a water softener installed on Friday; this softens all the water going onto the house.

    Due to the warm weather; I’ve been using the immersion heater for hot water which worked fine up to yesterday (Usually the oil boiler does it) when it tripped the RCD on the fuse board when I switched it on. This happens in both Sink and Bath mode.

    Based on the above; I think the element needs replacing.

    Has anyone done this on this type of tank; the clearance is poor as can be seen so I'm hoping that I can slightly bend the element to allow it to be installed.
    Anyone think I'm asking for trouble or do I have to disconnect all the pipes to the tank to allow it be rotated to allow the the immersion be installed?

    I have a suspicion that maybe due to the the water softener; scale on the heating element is now coming adrift thus the element is exposed and causing the trip.

    Does anyone think I may be in trouble with the oil boiler element too?

    Cheers all.
    [IMG][/img]20160530_163052_zpshtazr7cn.jpg

    [IMG][/img]20160530_162926_zpsv9tavboi.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Is the dimension in either of the two manuals on top of the cylinder?

    I agree with your analysis re the possible cause

    If the tank needs to be moved to get it out, let it stay moved, you didn't ask, but I wouldn't accept that set up, its cruel, especially since they were able to use pipe benders

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    islanderre wrote: »
    Does anyone think I may be in trouble with the oil boiler element too?
    Cheers all.

    There isn't an element as such in the oil boiler. Also the water in the oil boiler will be separate from the water in the cylinder. They will not be mixing.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Wearb wrote: »
    There isn't an element as such in the oil boiler. Also the water in the oil boiler will be separate from the water in the cylinder. They will not be mixing.

    Cheers Wearb.....

    My phrasing is poor!!!! If I understand correctly the water from the oil boiler goes into the Ferroli tank and loops around within a coil and back out...... my concern is the scale that may of built up over the years on this coil too may now come adrift and I wonder is the possibility of the coil been damaged too.

    For info; from the receipt I have; the tank was installed in June 2010. Disappointed I did'nt get longer from the immersion but I suppose it has done 6 summers of daily use.

    Cheers....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Is the dimension in either of the two manuals on top of the cylinder?

    I agree with your analysis re the possible cause

    If the tank needs to be moved to get it out, let it stay moved, you didn't ask, but I wouldn't accept that set up, its cruel, especially since they were able to use pipe benders

    Thanks for the comment Calahonda52.....

    The two items on top of the cylinder are new filters for the HRV!!!!

    Plumbers long gone..... Aussie land I think!!!!

    From a quick google; it would appear the immersion element is 14'' long...... think I might scrape it....

    weekend should solve it..... may leave it till next Tuesday due to the bank holiday weekend and the risk of sh1t hitting the plan if thinks don't go well....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    It's not the scale breaking off its the build up and the element overheating that does it.

    That would be fine to change I that position


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Cheers for the reply corkgsxr....

    Will report back on the outcome in due course


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Different tank manufacturers use different size threaded bosses, but usually they are 11"/12" -14" long, that's the easy bit.
    The only way to find out which one you have is to take the old element out. I would imagine with 10 " clearance you should be able to change it without having to move the tank, might need a little bit of a wriggle.
    Undo the electrics, and drain out all of the water from the tank ensuring that it is empty.
    Then you will need a proper element box spanner and sometimes some brute force to remove the element. Sometimes they can be difficult to get out and on a rare occasion you damage the tank trying, but 95 % of them come out easy enough.
    When you have the element out, you then measure the diameter size of the threaded boss and the length of the element to determine which one you need.
    Not all Plumbing suppliers or Electrical Suppliers carry the smaller boss sizes so phone around first and ask are they certain that they have the right one..
    It is really important that the electrical connections are done properly on the elements, poor or incorrect connections can cause the cable to overheat, melting the insulation plastic and cause bigger problems for you, so if you are unsure or unfamiliar, best to leave it.
    The new element should screw almost fully home By Hand and only the final turn or so with the spanner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Cheers k.flyer....

    Will give it a go either at the weekend or early next week.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Morning All,

    I got the loan of the correct sized spanner to allow the element be unscrewed.

    Just a question; I'll be using the drain valve @ the bottom of the tank to drain it down via a garden hose routed outside..... would it be best to crack the connection on the hot water outlet @ the top of the tank too to allow air in while draining down or could I try leaving the hot tap upstairs full open instead to allow air be drawn in that way?

    Think cracking the connection on top of the tank probably best?

    I'll most likely tackle this tomorrow now I have the correct spanner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    First things first..
    Most suppliers close early (4.00 ish) on a Friday and will not be re-opening until Tuesday and the chances of Woodies or B&Q etc having the correct one are almost zero. So you may be doing this twice.
    First turn off the gate valve on the bottom pipe to establish that it is the supply pipe with the drain cock. Close the valve and check that no water flows from the hot tap.
    Normally I would open the connection on the top of the cylinder to help improve the flow.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Thanks for that k.flyer....

    Planning on getting into Chadwick's in the AM so I've plenty of time I hope..... I rang them during the week as that's were the tank was bought. Fella said he should have one.

    Will report back!!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭islanderre


    Well Job Done!!!!!

    Went well in the end..... did'nt disconnect the hot water connection in the; just left the bath hot tap full open to purge the air.

    Old element had allot of scale.

    [IMG][/img]20160603_104546_zps2p9x5o0t.jpg

    New element to go in

    [IMG][/img]20160603_180106_zpscgpsxzg2.jpg

    Just about had enough clearance in the end to get old out and new in....... tight squeeze!!!!

    Thanks for all the input.....


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