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Tight barrel when cleaning

  • 19-04-2016 9:30pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭


    Lads my brother is after buying a secondhand. 22 cz 455 varmint with heavy bareel. He went to clean the barrel with a stainless steel .22 pro shot rod and after one pass the rod was marked. I gave him my bore tech coated rod and same result. Anyone come across this before. I've never had any problems clean my cz 455. Gun looks clean and no obvious damage


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    When you say marked do you mean the coating was scrapped or just there were marks left by the gunk as it was passing through the bore and they wiped off with a rag? Also do you wipe the rod body with each pass so you're not pushing the crap stuck to it back up the barrel?

    I have both rods and have found the same thing, on occasion. Usually when my rifle was really dirty after a long day on the range or in the field or both.

    I only cleaned my 223 the other day. When i tried to get the rod down the barrel it was a fecking nightmare for the first 5 to 7 passes. It got easier as i cleaned the junk out and towards the end was not too bad.

    I find the rods are tight anyway. They provide a brilliant clean and leave no part of the barrel undone. Some of the cheaper rods i've had over the years were loose from that to finish and i found it may not fully clean.

    As long as you're not having to mule it each and every time i'd continue using it.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    The extractor is scratching the rod


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    What?

    How could the be extractor scratching the rod? The extractor is on the bolt, and unless he is cleaning with the bolt it it cannot be near the rod. If the bolt is in then i can tell you the problem right now.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭eoin.d


    Cass wrote: »
    When you say marked do you mean the coating was scrapped or just there were marks left by the gunk as it was passing through the bore and they wiped off with a rag? Also do you wipe the rod body with each pass so you're not pushing the crap stuck to it back up the barrel?

    I have both rods and have found the same thing, on occasion. Usually when my rifle was really dirty after a long day on the range or in the field or both.

    I only cleaned my 223 the other day. When i tried to get the rod down the barrel it was a fecking nightmare for the first 5 to 7 passes. It got easier as i cleaned the junk out and towards the end was not too bad.

    I find the rods are tight anyway. They provide a brilliant clean and leave no part of the barrel undone. Some of the cheaper rods i've had over the years were loose from that to finish and i found it may not fully clean.

    As long as you're not having to mule it each and every time i'd continue using it.

    Thanks cass, the coating was actually scraped. Looking down barrel it looks clean can't see any gunk. It was tight to push rod but not overly tight. He was on the first pass with a soaked patch and proper jag


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭eoin.d


    clivej wrote: »
    The extractor is scratching the rod

    He was using a bore guide at the time so extractor wasn't problem I don't think


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    eoin.d wrote: »
    Thanks cass, the coating was actually scraped. Looking down barrel it looks clean can't see any gunk. It was tight to push rod but not overly tight. He was on the first pass with a soaked patch and proper jag
    If he was using a bore guide then its not the bolt release/sear as released by pulling the trigger when you take out the bolt.

    Only two other options i can think of:
    1. Spur or something foreign in the bore, chamber, barrel
    2. The rod is a lemon in that its not perfectly round.
    I check the diameter of the rod body to see if its wider than the diameter of the bore. Failing that try and get a look into the bore/chamber and if necessary borrow or get someone with a bore scope to check it out for you.
    eoin.d wrote: »
    He was using a bore guide at the time so extractor wasn't problem I don't think
    It's not the extractor. That is on the bolt face. So unless he is managing to clean with the bolt in its not the problem.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭eoin.d


    Cass wrote: »
    If he was using a bore guide then its not the bolt release/sear as released by pulling the trigger when you take out the bolt.

    Only two other options i can think of:
    1. Spur or something foreign in the bore, chamber, barrel
    2. The rod is a lemon in that its not perfectly round.
    I check the diameter of the rod body to see if its wider than the diameter of the bore. Failing that try and get a look into the bore/chamber and if necessary borrow or get someone with a bore scope to check it out for you.

    It's not the extractor. That is on the bolt face. So unless he is managing to clean with the bolt in its not the problem.

    He has cleaned chamber and barrel since using a rod for 17 hmr just to see and barrel was spotless. I've been using the bore tech rod on my. 22 exact same rifle and never had a problem. With it. It just seems like the rod is a shade too big for bore of his rifle


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I know they are tight. My 455 was the same. Tight, but not so much so that it stopped me from cleaning.

    I'm at a loss. Using a bore guide should cut out any snagging issues. Tightness won't, or shouldn't cause damage to the rod. The only way it can happen is if there is a spur or something else in the chamber, on the edge of the chamber, bore, etc.

    Quick one. Have you used the rod since? I ask because if it was a once off then maybe whatever caused the damage is gone. I'd suggest trying the rod again. Make sure it's clean, and the rifle is clean. Then run the rod down the rifle to see if the mark happens again. Be careful so as not to damage the rod further, but the only way to check is to actually try it.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    clivej wrote: »
    The extractor is scratching the rod
    Cass wrote: »
    What?

    How could the be extractor scratching the rod? The extractor is on the bolt, and unless he is cleaning with the bolt it it cannot be near the rod. If the bolt is in then i can tell you the problem right now.

    Sorry the ejector, it sticks out and can hit off the rod if memory serves me right


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Ok, having a blonde moment.

    Where are the extractor and/or ejector. I know all bolts have them, but i was unaware they were also in the action/receiver of the rifle.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35 VBull


    Cass i think Clive means the bolt guide which is commonly referred to as the ejector plate.

    It is held within the action by the magazine well bolt and has a protrusion on top that is only slightly out of line with the barrel bore.

    Many people found problems of scratched rods due to this setup so they removed the sharp edges from the protrusion and switched from a .22 cal rod to a .17-.20 cal rod and with a bore guide and a .22 jag eliminated the problem.

    Since a bore guide was used i cannot see how it would have been the bolt guide causing the problem.

    Cz does seem to keep their barrels on the tight side for .22 hence why people often go with a smaller .20 cal rod.

    Were you using patches when the rod got scratched or just a brush?

    Is the rod handle touching the cheek piece when cleaning?

    Any pics of the rod?

    Sorry for all the questions


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I only recently stripped my 22 to install a trigger kit and give a thorough cleaning. Should have thought of the plate. The confusion comes from the name as i've always referred to it as a guide. Ejector to me is on the bolt.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    I have the exact same setup and the same thing happened to my pro shot rob.

    The CZ455 small piece on metal rail which partial blocks the straight path and even with a bore guide.

    I'll post a picture later


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 401 ✭✭eoin.d


    Cass I have cleaned my rifle with the rod since, tight as usual but not damaging anything. He hasn't used it on his since. He trying to locate a rod for maybe a. 20 and just use that.
    Vbull yes he was using a patch at the time. He says rod was close to but not obstructed by cheekpiece. I will get some pics of rod but will have to wait until weekend.
    Clive I know the piece sticking up in chamber your talking about but the bore guide is on that.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,810 ✭✭✭✭Witcher


    The ejector stub still protrudes across the bore axis even with a bore guide in. Bores guides just butt up to it, they dont cover it, it couldn't or you would be able to get the rod through the barrel.

    There's probably 20 threads about this on Rimfirecentral, only way to avoid the ejector is to use a 17-20cal rod and lay a patch across the ejector and push the bore guide in over it to secure it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    So does anyone know where I can get an adapter for my .17 ProShot to allow it use the .22 brushes etc.

    5/40 Male to 8/32 Female


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    So this is what you see looking down a bore guide in a CZ455, as you can see in the bottom left there is a small metal piece which partially blocks the straight path down the bore.

    And that little piece of metal is what screws up you ProShot .22 Cleaning Rod.

    symqn8.jpg


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I use a different bore guide and it comes up to the chamber so "bypasses" all that. Never had an issue with snagging. I did years and years ago before i knew of bore guides and have torn plastic of two of my rods before i copped onto bore guides.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭Wadi14


    Cass wrote: »
    Ok, having a blonde moment.

    Where are the extractor and/or ejector. I know all bolts have them, but i was unaware they were also in the action/receiver of the rifle.

    full bore rifles have them on the bolt, for a right side ejection rifle the extractor is on the right side of the bolt the ejector is on the left side of the bolt.

    Rimfire .22 have and extractor on the right side of the bolt an a cartridge holder on the left side of the bolt the ejector is not on the bolt of the rimfire rifle, its that little bit that catches the rod when ur cleaning, when the bolt is pulled to the rear the case strikes the ejector stub and is ejected.

    Now I'm no gunsmith but this is how I thought it all worked.


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