40mm mdpe pipe and joints

keep going

anybody have a good value supplier of this stuff,might be interested in a big roll of 1.5km .i have to put in a main line for the long hot summer

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

anybody have a good value supplier of this stuff,might be interested in a big roll of 1.5km .i have to put in a main line for the long hot summer

What's mode? For normal hydradare/alkatane glanbia are usually hard to beat. Purely a volume thing. None of the other plumbing suppliers in this area do anything like the volumes and so can't match the prices at all. What's your plan?

Hydradare is basically sold by weight. The bigger the diam the shorter the roll. Price doesn't change that much from roll to roll.

keep going

freedominacup wrote: »

What's mode? For normal hydradare/alkatane glanbia are usually hard to beat. Purely a volume thing. None of the other plumbing suppliers in this area do anything like the volumes and so can't match the prices at all. What's your plan?

Hydradare is basically sold by weight. The bigger the diam the shorter the roll. Price doesn't change that much from roll to roll.

mdpe cant tell you its full name but its stronger than hydrdare,normally its the blue stuff.i want to run a mainline from one end to the other with spurs off it but also iam flirting with plumbing in a spring thats high up on the far end of the land we bought

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

mdpe cant tell you its full name but its stronger than hydrdare,normally its the blue stuff.i want to run a mainline from one end to the other with spurs off it but also iam flirting with plumbing in a spring thats high up on the far end of the land we bought

Haven't a clue about mdpe. If that spring is good and there's any sort of a height difference put in the pump on the high ground. Inch and a quarter hydradare will do fine in that scenario you'll be going with nature not against it. Leave the pump you have in place for the yard. We had/have a good well at the lowest point on the farm but when we changed to the well on my site close to the highest point it was like night and day. Smaller pump providing far more water to all points at far higher pressure. We can get away with much smaller troughs as the flow rate is so much higher. I much prefer the smaller troughs. You can obviously put in more of them for a set spend and they're much easier to keep clean.

Cow Porter

Read some where that blue pipe is not uv resistant so has to be buried. Can get black metric but why not use hydradare then altogether if over ground

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freedominacup wrote: »

Haven't a clue about mdpe. If that spring is good and there's any sort of a height difference put in the pump on the high ground. Inch and a quarter hydradare will do fine in that scenario you'll be going with nature not against it. Leave the pump you have in place for the yard. We had/have a good well at the lowest point on the farm but when we changed to the well on my site close to the highest point it was like night and day. Smaller pump providing far more water to all points at far higher pressure. We can get away with much smaller troughs as the flow rate is so much higher. I much prefer the smaller troughs. You can obviously put in more of them and they're much easier to keep clean.

The spring is at the furthest point away from the yard and no power source close to it and there two other wells feeding into the system, one at home and one on the neighbours place .the advantage of teeing in this spring is it would give the option of having water flowing to any trough from both sides if you get my drift rather than all the water going a long distance and losing flow rate.water has always been a big issue on this farm and requires a little more priority than other places.

cjpm

Does the spring run dry during summer? Is there a good flow rate at it?

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cjpm wrote: »

Does the spring run dry during summer? Is there a good flow rate at it?

i was renting this land before and it seems fairly good and was marked on the old maps as a spring,its actually the source of a stream which i have never seen dry.do i think it would keep me going on its own ,no but as a relatively cheap third source,it has possiblities and having water coming from 2 sides to a trough is worth alot

keep going

Cow Porter wrote: »

Read some where that blue pipe is not uv resistant so has to be buried. Can get black metric but why not use hydradare then altogether if over ground

didnt know that,whats more important to me nearly is getting good sized rolls rather than jointing with the associated cost and problems

longgonesilver

Hi Was going to send you to http://www.southcoastsales.com/ but they don't have pipe on their website, might not do it but ring and ask them they might suggest someone.

You should defiantly give them a chance to quote for the connectors etc, . these get very dear as you move into the bigger sizes and reducers especially if you have a lot of teeoffs, might be cheaper to have less tees and run more lower diameter pipe.

They are located near Wilton in Cork and deal with the public.

Uponor used to manufacture pipe in Cork. Sold their factory across from Dunnes Bishopstown. Always wondered if they would deal direct if your order was big enough.

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

The spring is at the furthest point away from the yard and no power source close to it and there two other wells feeding into the system, one at home and one on the neighbours place .the advantage of teeing in this spring is it would give the option of having water flowing to any trough from both sides if you get my drift rather than all the water going a long distance and losing flow rate.water has always been a big issue on this farm and requires a little more priority than other places.

The well at the lowest point was found in '84 . Think 2014 for how dry that year was. Water was always an issue before that. Having water from a high part of your farm will sort a lot of your problems and should pay for itself veru quickly. We've been using the copy philmac fittings for the past couple of years. At least thirty percent cheaper than the current philmac with no problems so far. A llittle bit of planning and you should be able to get a lot of spurs to link up with pipe joinings.

cjpm

Well in the case of 1' piping If the distances between your troughs is less than 150m then there is no need to be worrying about joiners as you will be using tees at each spur anyway.

I designed my layout on autocad. Drew a 150m radius circle around each trough to see how far I could get with a single run of 1' pipe.

You are hoping to use a bigger pipe so I'm not sure if the roll is shorter or not.

You will need a non return valve at the spring if there is any chance that the pump could be pumping water up there. Depends on your cut in cut out pressure.

If on the other hand the spring is at a huge height it may put too much pressure on the lowest plumbing so you would need a non return valve somewhere down along to stop that too!!

cjpm

Was in Co-op. 1.25 inch and 1.5 inch rolls are also 150m long

keep going

cjpm wrote: »

Well in the case of 1' piping If the distances between your troughs is less than 150m then there is no need to be worrying about joiners as you will be using tees at each spur anyway.

I designed my layout on autocad. Drew a 150m radius circle around each trough to see how far I could get with a single run of 1' pipe.

You are hoping to use a bigger pipe so I'm not sure if the roll is shorter or not.

You will need a non return valve at the spring if there is any chance that the pump could be pumping water up there. Depends on your cut in cut out pressure.

If on the other hand the spring is at a huge height it may put too much pressure on the lowest plumbing so you would need a non return valve somewhere down along to stop that too!!

ill have to bring the water about 700 metres before i need to tee .been using a site called daft logic for measuring handy tool

cjpm

keep going wrote: »

ill have to bring the water about 700 metres before i need to tee .been using a site called daft logic for measuring handy tool

Well if you have a run of 700m fair enough. That would be 5 rolls of LDPE and 4 joiners.

You'll do the sums yourself.

What kind of drop in level?

Have you any sort of reservoir planned at the spring? If you have insufficient flow for peak demand you are making your system inefficient.

cjpm

Neighbour of mine dug down to the rock ( approx 10ft). You could see the water trickling up through the cracks in the rock. He then put large precast pipe units on their ends, starting on top of the rock and building up to ground level. The pipe joints should be sealed as the bottom pipe on top of the rock.
Capped it off with a slab.

The pipe units provide capacity for during the day and it recharges fully at night.

About 4 inches before the slab (which is 1 foot underground too) he put in a 4" outlet pipe to drain away the extra water as this spring would soak the surrounding fields

49801

I would recommend cthe below for compative rates and sound to deal with
http://www.cksouthernpiping.com

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according to daft logic the spring is 70 ft higher than the highest point on the farm and theres a drop of 100 ft over 300metres before it levells off.if you use a bigger or smaller pipe for the that first leg does it increase the pressure/flow farther on

cjpm

keep going wrote: »

according to daft logic the spring is 70 ft higher than the highest point on the farm and theres a drop of 100 ft over 300metres before it levells off.if you use a bigger or smaller pipe for the that first leg does it increase the pressure/flow farther on

Friction losses are the problems in piping. The way to overcome it is by increasing the pipe diameter.

If you were to use the smaller pipe for the first leg you would be wasting money on bigger piping for the rest. The first pipe should be biggest one really for your system to work efficiently.

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

according to daft logic the spring is 70 ft higher than the highest point on the farm and theres a drop of 100 ft over 300metres before it levells off.if you use a bigger or smaller pipe for the that first leg does it increase the pressure/flow farther on

Smaller pipe will equal bigger troughs and more work/pressure for the pump. You can Google friction loss and work out the decrease in flow rates with smaller bore pipe.

Every time we've upgraded any section of paddocks we've wondered why we didn't do it sooner and this in a situation where the oul boy installed inch and a half along the line of the roadway from one end of the farm to the other day one back in the early seventies. All the spurs are now more or less done. It's one of those roundtoit jobs. The situation is not too bad and there's always something else pressing so the upgrades get put off which means he's only seeing thhe job finished at the other end of his career. Do it right now.

keep going

freedominacup wrote: »

Smaller pipe will equal bigger troughs and more work/pressure for the pump. You can Google friction loss and work out the decrease in flow rates with smaller bore pipe.

Every time we've upgraded any section of paddocks we've wondered why we didn't do it sooner and this in a situation where the oul boy installed inch and a half along the line of the roadway from one end of the farm to the other day one back in the early seventies. All the spurs are now more or less done. It's one of those roundtoit jobs. The situation is not too bad and there's always something else pressing so the upgrades get put off which means he's only seeing thhe job finished at the other end of his career. Do it right now.

if i get this mainline and that spring plumbed in this year ill be happy enough given the year thats in it.reseeding,lime,pand k would have equal priority in the scheme of things and theres a few cubicles to be put into a house and drains dug and cleaned.add my buddy in boi looking for his money back

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

if i get this mainline and that spring plumbed in this year ill be happy enough given the year thats in it.reseeding,lime,pand k would have equal priority in the scheme of things and theres a few cubicles to be put into a house and drains dug and cleaned.add my buddy in boi looking for his money back

Like I said roundtoit. Mainline is important. Getting plenty of volume to a point close to the troughs means the friction loss over the smaller gauges will be minimized.