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Build workbench and shelves from lumber

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    Once the bench tip is screwed down every 4-6", there shiulfld be no issues with warping. The heavier the ply you can use the better, especially if tour mounting a vise or anything


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,584 ✭✭✭✭Steve


    Sort the damp out before you do anything, otherwise it doesn't matter what you use - it will rot.

    I'm doing the same myself soon and planning to use 3x2 frames with 18mm mdf over.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭okedoke


    Thanks lads - I've installed 2 vents in the shed now, one at floor level and one over the door - hopefully this should sort out the dampness.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,095 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Steve wrote: »
    Sort the damp out before you do anything, otherwise it doesn't matter what you use - it will rot.

    I'm doing the same myself soon and planning to use 3x2 frames with 18mm mdf over.

    Not sure that mdf is the best surface for a work bench - any spot of wet results in the surface blistering (been there...); at least with heavy ply you have a chance of rescuing it. Suggest that any place you plan to screw heavy equipment - vice for example - you put in an additional piece of timber underneath to screw into.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,584 ✭✭✭✭Steve


    MDF is ok if you seal it well with several coats of a spirit based varnish. There's also a MP variant for a few extra euros per sheet.
    Any wood sheet will blister unless you take care with the finish - or spend a lot on WBP or marine ply.. I don't have the cash for that.
    8'x4' 18mm MDF can be got for €20 odd per sheet, easy and cheap to replace if it gets damaged.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭okedoke


    I've built the workbench and am pretty happy with it as a first diy project. I used the base of an old bed as a surface.

    I'm going to build shelves for the shed next, based on a plan from the net. Basically its a frame of 4*2's and I'm wondering what the most cost effective material for the actual shelves would be?

    By the way the venting completely sorted out the damp


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,262 ✭✭✭di11on


    okedoke wrote: »
    I'm wondering what the most cost effective material for the actual shelves would be?

    Something here? http://www.diy.com/search/results/category-27004=DIY762928?pageSize=12&question=chipboard&categoryToFilter=DIY762928

    Thicker is better, depending on your spans.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I used 18mm ply to shelve out my shed, you can get a lot of shelves out of an 8x 4 sheet. I finished both faces with 2- 3 coats of polyuethane varnish (thinned with white spirit) and got a great hardwearing, wipeable finish. Ply is one of the best materials for shelving- no sagging and looks well in my view.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭okedoke


    how did you rip the sheets to size? Do shops do this for you when you buy?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    okedoke wrote: »
    how did you rip the sheets to size? Do shops do this for you when you buy?


    I just used a long straight edge and a circular saw, light chamfer on the edges with a block plane. Some places may rip to size, charging by the cut but depending on where you go the end result could be rough- depending on the saw available and skill of the operator. B&Q would be a dear place to buy timber and sheet materials but when I was in their Athlone branch I was impressed by their top of the range panel saw!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭okedoke


    Thanks Jack - the only saw I have is a handsaw, wouldnt be confident of getting a remotely straight edge with that. I'll ask a local timber merchant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,186 ✭✭✭cletus


    okedoke wrote: »
    Thanks Jack - the only saw I have is a handsaw, wouldnt be confident of getting a remotely straight edge with that. I'll ask a local timber merchant.

    You could always rent a circular saw for the day. Shouldn't cost much, and you get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself (and playing with power tools of course :D)


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