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New Development Royal Canal Park D15

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Thanks, I'll have a look now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Fyi as I know a few folks here are looking at EVs or have got EVs. We made the decision to switch to a Day/Night meter. I was hesitant as I didn't want someone ripping out the existing meter and replacing it only for it to be ripped out again in a few years with a smart meter but it turns out our meters are Day/Night capable, they just set up for 24 tariffs currently. Setting it up for Day/Night was a 5 minute job by the ESBN engineer that called, no hassle, no power cut.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Just an update, we got secondary glazing installed in the master bedroom and it's made a massive different to the noise level. On my phone I measure a 10db reduction at the the window between having the glazing open or closed. You'll still hear something like a train horn penetrate but it brings the ambient noise level down significantly. I no longer hear buses or most cars on the road. I'm having the deepest sleeps I've had in years.




  • Registered Users Posts: 36 EvoEvo


    Hi Everyone,


    Do you have any information about Meridian Court ? is it a nice place to live?


    I really can't find any information about it. Thank you .)



  • Registered Users Posts: 36 dovetail


    Hello All, I see that Eir Fibre installation was discussed in good detail in November 2020. However, I'm only getting upgrade now. Open Eir / KN came to the house to do the installation recently. They said that they would need to drill a hole through the wall from outside to inside the house, piercing through the membrane. But they said that they need our authorization to that because they said once the membrane is pierced, the energy rating A would be lost. Has this been mentioned to any body else? on this basis, we instructed them to not proceed with the instalation and allow us time for further research.

    Also, their policy is not to drill holes through the timber door/window frames,which apparently could have been an alternative solution to keep the A rating intact. If I had have been at the house myself at the time, I could have drilled a hole through the timber window frame myself. Not sure how neat it would look. Did anybody else pre-drill a hole through the window frame by the front door in advance of Open Eir / KN doing the installation?


    They are trying to arrange the 2nd appointment with me complete the installation, so I need to make the decision on whether to proceed, or to stick to the internet service that I already have. :)


    Thanks in advance for any advise or tips.

    Post edited by dovetail on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    I've never heard of that, you could contact seai https://www.seai.ie/home-energy/building-energy-rating-ber the membrane is important, from a moisture protection perspective but the house has loads of vents. I'd guess however they want to drill from an external brick in? I got them to drill into the cavity from the inside hallway out and then coat hanger the cable through so no additional brick work and the membrane is just penetrated into a cavity it was already penetrated to for the phone, tv and power.

    Did they actually agree to install through a window/ door frame? That was going to be my other option, to put it through the panel at the side of the front door but the KN chap said no way, the expansion and contraction of wood can cause failures. If I was in your position, and assuming you are handy, I'd drill out myself into the cavity by the front door, put some ducting through to the lower utility box, drimmle or otherwise create a slot in the box. Then when KM chap comes just tell him to use the ducting already in place to bring it into the hall.



  • Registered Users Posts: 36 dovetail


    They initially wanted to drill from the external brickwork into the living room. I didn't want this. They didnt agree to drill through the timber door / window frame either - they said they were not permitted to do this by Eir. They could have offered to do as they did for you (drill into the cavity from the inside hallway out to the lower utility box), maybe they seen it as too much work. I could give it a go myself or get carpenter family member is willing to help drill the hole so everything is prepared for them in advance. Would you be able to suggest the diameter size of ducting please? And I can get myself organised :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    So that's the cable, it's maybe 6mm in diameter. So a 10 mm ducting would be fine I recon. I'd run the ducting in from the utility box.

    They put it in the cavity for me as I think I was one of the first to get it in the development. A week later they had started to refuse people. Getting it installed in the sitting room is useless for getting the connection back to the utility and the rest of the house.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 pgav19


    Hi,

    Apologies if this has been asked before but I'm having issues with the shower in the en-suite of a Heron. Basically, I can't adjust the temperature. The water is always just a little too hot and I can't make it colder by turning the temperature handle.

    From research, this looks like an issue with the Thermostat Diverter Cartridge which either needs to be cleaned or replaced. I think I know how this can be done (remove handles, remove face plate, unscrew diverter cap, pull out diverter cartridge, rinse/soak/descale/replace as necessary, put it all back together).

    My question is how to isolate the water supply to the shower before I start doing this work? Is there a valve somewhere? I can't seem to find it.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    I had the same issue. Didn't think of cleaning the diverter, I just set the hot water temperature a couple degrees lower. You can isolation the water in the hot press, there should be to valves, one hot, one cold going into the massive tank.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Can I ask does anyone know of any body other than Smart Heating certified to service the Joule heat pump? Been trying for months to get through to them but no Joy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 pgav19


    How did you set the hot water temperature lower?

    I think you must have a different set up to me. Our tank is in the attic...there's only one isolation valve to it. When I turn that, there still is hot water flowing in the shower.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Pictures of your setup? Ours is a herron style house.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 pgav19


    Thanks!

    Yes, ours is a Heron too. I've added a few pictures below.

    Shower System with face plate removed:

    "Hot Press" Area

    Tank

    Isolator Valve on tank




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Your set up seems be completely different to ours. The hot and cold valves are as shown there.

    Do you have a heat pump? The water tank valve isnt the right one, that's the inflow.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 pgav19


    Yes, we have a Daikin rather than a joule. The unit is in the utility room with the set up of pipes coming from it looking like this:




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    So some combination of those 3 red leavers are what you need to turn to shut off the water into the ensuite. Not sure which tbh, trial and error might tell you.

    Can I ask, was your property one of the first or more recent. Ours was 2016. I know they switched to Samsung heat pumps at one stage, wasn't aware they used Daikin.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 pgav19


    Thanks, I'll give it a go.

    We were the last phase. Bought in 2019



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Just an fyi for those interested, we recently had an issue with our thermostats whereby even with the programmer unit in the utility showed they should be coming on, they where not. It was kinda random when this would happen. We had the folks out to look at the heating system and they mentioned there was a known issue with the EPH programmers used on the estate, a dodgy batch or something as they are normally reliable enough.

    Anyway, I bought a "smart" replacement https://www.ephcontrols.com/section/ember-ps-2-zone-systems/ and fitted it myself handy enough. You don't strictly need the full fit, but the programmer a lone will get you back a couple hundred.



  • Registered Users Posts: 19 bullet93


    Recently moved in to RCP in Cassian Court South. My god the noise in the mornings from Delivery vans at centra is crazy. Just wondering does anyone have any solutions to this?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 36 EvoEvo


    Hi eveyone, I might have the possibility about moving to The Chandler Building in Ashtown, but haven't been able to find any up-to-date information on it.


    Any advice or personal experience ?


    I have noticed that the apartment building is very close to the ashtown train station, it would be very noisy ?


    Thank you



  • Registered Users Posts: 740 ✭✭✭Chumpski


    Has anybody considered installing Solar Panels? Would they be practical with the heating system in the houses?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Hi I looked into it. Solar for hot water heating is in general something people aren't doing anymore. There are lots of complications with it and maintainance issues. Solar for power generation on the other hand is very feasible as long as the roof is not north facing. On the herrons you have enough space to install a massive array, up to 8Kw when I did the measurements, which would basically take you off the grid nearly totally.

    The power to hot water converters apparently are not cost effective for most people, let alone homes with a heat pump. You'd be better sinking any excess power into a battery and using that to power the heat pump as opposed to trying to heat water directly.

    What makes you feel the houses might be unsuitable? Ultimately we didn't get it done as our roof is north facing but almost any other aspect is worth while. If you've a South facing garden that isn't over looked it's extremely worth while.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Anyone else having a problem with their heat pump compressor going ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,593 ✭✭✭theteal


    So I was posting in here a long while back about my brothers house and the issues getting the network patching connected. Basically we could not find the cables in the utility room where some of you told me they should be. Anyway, it turns out they had put a back box in (badly) with a blank plate but never actually pulled the cables through - the brother got brave one day, pulled out the back box and the chunk of plaster that was protruding in front of it, stuck his arm in and went rooting....found them.

    So I'm over from the UK today with nothing to do so I pop in to put some ends on and get the LAN working. Phase 1, ends on with little fuss. Phase 2, test the run from the router at front door into the utility - note, this the only run that I have "terminated" both ends of link. Anyway, this link works fine.

    Then the fun. I test the living room port to utility - only one led on tester. I test the back room port to utility - only one led on tester. "Is my cabling that bad???" Off to check how the faceplates are patched...I should have taken pics...every single eth face plate in the house only had the blue pair connected. Not only that but the faceplate only have room for 6 cables so you can't actually patch the 4 pairs of the cable, so gig eth is not actually possible, wtf?! Not much change from half a mil for a house with this codology!

    Now I'm no cabler, I deal more with firewalls, switches and all that good stuff so the above looks completely foreign to me.

    Anybody else had similar?

    Anyway, 7 proper faceplates purchased and hopefully will arrive in time for my return visit next week.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    The face plates that come with the house are for telephone no? I'd say there is an issue with your wiring, especially if you're trying to get this working with the supplied faceplates.

    There's no issue getting gigabit ethernet working with the cables supplies normally.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,593 ✭✭✭theteal


    The cables are fine, it's the faceplates that won't work for 1gig as the 4 pair can't be connected. Anyway, not a major issue, just surprised and would expect better



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Not sure why you'd expect different. In the book that came with the house they are clearly identified as telephone connection. Lucky they used cat5e cable tbh, they could have just run single twisted pair and been within spec for what they sold your brother. Ethernet won't work at all with those plates regardless of speed. In earlier phases there was an option to pay for cat6 with proper Ethernet faceplates.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,593 ✭✭✭theteal


    Thanks for the info. I've not seen the book and not aware the spec was just for single pair - which I'm very surprised about in this day and age (or even 2-3 years ago), how many houses will ever connect a phone???? Anyway, storm in a teacup and we'll have it all sorted next week.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭Manion


    Yeah it was a bit out dated at the time. Struck me as meeting some regulation, maybe even a UK one as most of the specing seemed lifted from there. Same with the lamp plugs in the sitting room. We viewed a fair few new build houses at the time all them seemed to have phone lines to every room. The mother in law's is just a single unshielded twisted pair, half them don't work after 10 years.



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