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Help with repair upgrade

  • 24-01-2016 1:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,349 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    Novice cyclist looking for some advice. Help much appreciated!

    I've a Specialized cyclocross which I currently use for commuting and the occasional <100km spin. It is old and well worn however I like the bike and would like to stick with it for the short term. Preferably I'd like to move away from the triple to a compact double.

    Problem being the components on it are in bad shape:
    - Front derailleur does not work and needs to be replaced. Mental that holds the spring tension broke off
    - Middle ring on the crank buckled and fell apart yesterday while cycling. The crank itself needs replacing as the teeth are well worn.

    Specialized Tricross Sport Triple 2007 Spec

    BRAKE LEVERS - Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible w/ brake lever extensions
    FRONT DERAILLEUR - Shimano Sora, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull
    REAR DERAILLEUR - Deore LX, 9-speed, long cage
    SHIFT LEVERS - Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible
    CRANKSET - FSA Vero, cold-forged crankset
    CHAINRINGS - 50x39x30T
    BOTTOM BRACKET Sport cartridge, square taper, 68 x 113mm

    [Upgraded/Replaced]
    Wheels: Shimano R500 (8/9/10 speed hub)
    Rear cassette replaced 2015
    Change replaced 2015

    I'm happy enough doing the upgrade work myself however I run into problems when trying to work out what I can upgrade in terms of compatibility.

    Front looking around here's my options in order of preference:

    1. Buy a Tiagra/105/Ultegra groupset. Compact 10 speed. So replacing my levers, FD, RD, rear cassette, chain, crank and BB.

    This for example? Ultergra 6700

    I believe I have to stick with my terrible canti brakes??

    2. Source the FSA crank and FD derailleur spares. Boring option!

    3. Sell the bike

    Have I missed anything here?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    While no. 2 is the boring option, it's the cheapest by miles. All you need is a new front mech and chainrings. You don't need a new crankset.

    If you're only looking to keep it running for the short term then I'd be inclined to do the minimum needed and put the rest of the cash away for a new bike.

    You aren't necessarily stuck with cantilevers. You may be able to fit a caliper instead, though you might need long reach calipers.

    You could also fit V-brakes. They won't work correctly with your brake levers, but there's a thing you can get called a "travel agent" that will fix that problem. But they are rare as hen's teeth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,349 ✭✭✭ErinGoBrath


    seamus wrote: »
    While no. 2 is the boring option, it's the cheapest by miles. All you need is a new front mech and chainrings. You don't need a new crankset.

    If you're only looking to keep it running for the short term then I'd be inclined to do the minimum needed and put the rest of the cash away for a new bike.

    You aren't necessarily stuck with cantilevers. You may be able to fit a caliper instead, though you might need long reach calipers.

    You could also fit V-brakes. They won't work correctly with your brake levers, but there's a thing you can get called a "travel agent" that will fix that problem. But they are rare as hen's teeth.

    Thanks for the reply, I'll defintely look into the long reach calipers as the canti's are very poor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,349 ✭✭✭ErinGoBrath


    seamus wrote: »
    While no. 2 is the boring option, it's the cheapest by miles. All you need is a new front mech and chainrings. You don't need a new crankset.

    Also, would the first option work or have I missed anything? I wouldn't mind spending 300-400 or so if I had a decent gearing on it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭cython


    Also, would the first option work or have I missed anything? I wouldn't mind spending 300-400 or so if I had a decent gearing on it?

    No reason that it shouldn't from what I can see, though technically you should also factor in new cables - including outers for at least the gears, but probably a full set is best - and potentially bar tape (if you strip it off completely to replace the shifters it's probably worth replacing).

    However if you buy the full gruppo then you're also going to get a set of calliper brakes you may not be able to use - check your fork and the frame above the rear wheel on the chain stays for a mount point to see if you can use them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,349 ✭✭✭ErinGoBrath


    Yep happy to change all the cables.

    Won't be able to use the brakes but can shift them on.

    Cheers!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    What cantis are you using? I have Avid Shorty Ultimates with Koolstop salmon pads on the front and I'm pretty happy with them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,349 ✭✭✭ErinGoBrath


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    What cantis are you using? I have Avid Shorty Ultimates with Koolstop salmon pads on the front and I'm pretty happy with them.

    I'm using Tektro Oryx

    The main issue is getting it setup, the two tension bolts are flimsy and it's difficult to get consistent tension with the awful yoke that comes with it.

    I much prefer the Avid's as I can see it's pulling directly in the centre so shouldn't cause the issues the Oyrx yoke brings.

    I'll have a look into changing them.


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