2011 C-max, no gears.

jonerkinsella

Hi.

Today I pulled up to a roundabout .On exit the car was hard to get into gear .Luckily I was on a bit of a down slope and the car rolled ,so I got 2nd to clear the junction. I pulled in and noted that I was having shift trouble . when the engine was not running I could get gears and when the engine was on I couldn't . I selected 1st gear and started the engine .The clutch dragged ,but I got it rolling and got home. I could upshift to 3rd but I could not downshift . While moving , if I pressed the clutch pedal down and rev the car ,the clutch was dragging .I rolled the car into my garden without the car in gear.

The car has 64k miles and is a 1.6tdci ,8valve . I checked the fluid level and it is fine ( brake and clutch share the same reservoir ) . I suspect that it is a hydraulic issue and that the slave cylinder might be gone or somehow air has gotten into the system .

Is the slave cylinder covered under Ford warranty ?

ps, I haven't gone mad looking under the bonnet yet as its bloody freezing out .

Any help and advice is appreciated lads ,have I missed something ?.

I am a reasonable mechanic that has done my own clutches,timing belts etc before .I trained as a motorcycle mechanic and know how to use spanners.

Thanks.

martinr5232

Sounds like a faulty pressure plate its a known fault in early focus try local dealer they may do something under goodwill.
If not try ringing ford in cork.

jonerkinsella

martinr5232 wrote: »

Sounds like a faulty pressure plate its a known fault in early focus try local dealer they may do something under goodwill.
If not try ringing ford in cork.

Thanks for the reply.

I've read a few reports of a faulty slave cylinder. I might give Cork a phone tomorrow as the car is still in warranty. I have read a few horror story's though about Ford saying its down to driver and not their fault and billing for about 1k .

martinr5232

jonerkinsella wrote:

I've read a few reports of a faulty slave cylinder. I might give Cork a phone tomorrow as the car is still in warranty. I have read a few horror story's though about Ford saying its down to driver and not their fault and billing for about 1k .

If it was a slave cylinder the clutch pedal would be on the floor.

100% its a faulty pressure plate weather you can get anything under warranty is another days work though.

jonerkinsella

I went into my local Ford dealer. The mechanical warranty is up since 10/14 ...fair enough.

The lad I spoke to in Ford reckons the same as you Martinr ,he said the pressure plate cracks sometimes. He quoted me about 7-800 € ,depending on what they find inside, more if the flywheel is gone. Ford are booked out for the next two weeks and he told me to look for someone else to do it in the meantime.

I never heard any shudders or vibrations in the clutch, so I don't think that the flywheel is gone.

I might go at it myself ,but the weather is bloody cold at the moment...I'll have to think hard about it.

The kit I need is this ,
http://infopart.org/ford-1772100-part

I note that it states that I need a special tool to fit . I can't seem to find out what tool this is , Do you know ?. It's a dual mass flywheel.

Thanks.

martinr5232

Are you the original owner ??

You dont need any special tools but under no circumstances his the stub axle with a hammer to seperate the track rod ends if you do a clutch will be the least of your problems because the steering module is part of the rack and will be damaged.

jonerkinsella

martinr5232 wrote: »

Are you the original owner ??

You dont need any special tools but under no circumstances his the stub axle with a hammer to seperate the track rod ends if you do a clutch will be the least of your problems because the steering module is part of the rack and will be damaged.

Hi.

I'm second owner . I imported the car from the north. It was a Ford lease car.

I think that it mentions a special tool because its a clutch centering tool ,do you think so ?

Are you saying that I should use a balljoint seperator and not hit the balljoint ,or hit the end of the driveshaft to knock it into the hub to release it ?.

Thanks.


Is this video relevent ,is this the tool I need ,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bGyH1Oj2LM

martinr5232

You can buy a clutch alignment tool in a motor factors for ten or fifteen euro that will be the least of your problems :-)

I would suggest leaving the rack connected to the stub axle and loosen the wishbones on the subframe instead.

jonerkinsella

I took a look at the drive shafts today and seen that they mount to the gearbox the same way as the video I posted above . I will need a special tool to remove the shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bGyH1Oj2LM

martinr5232

You dont need any special tools to do that job but you need basic equipment the Dpf has to be loosend off and a few awkward bolts to be taken out.

If your not sure about taking out driveshafts are you sure this is a job you want to attempt as a diy project ?

jonerkinsella

martinr5232 wrote: »

You dont need any special tools to do that job but you need basic equipment the Dpf has to be loosend off and a few awkward bolts to be taken out.

If your not sure about taking out driveshafts are you sure this is a job you want to attempt as a diy project ?

Yehh. I've sussed it out ,

http://tedperkins.com/driveshafts.htm

I can just lever the shafts out .