Traffic Film Remover

galwaydude18

Is Traffic Film Remover bad to use at each wash? I have a 08 Renault Trafic van is the front of it does get destroyed with bugs and they are a complete nightmare to get off unless I use traffic film remover

ianobrien

For the bugs, I have successfully used microfibres soaked in water placed over the bugs for an hour or so to soften them. Snowfoam after that and they're almost gone.

What I do is get the cloths soaking, go and get the rest of the wash stuff ready, have a cup of tea and the soak is almost complete.

Edit - This is how I did it
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=97411086&postcount=3651

Curran

TFR is bad for plastics and rubbers - degrades them over time - the odd TFR wash is fine, but repeated use will fade plastics, etc.
Will not have any effect on the paintwork, unless you have some sort of wax or sealant on it.

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

TFR is bad for plastics and rubbers - degrades them over time - the odd TFR wash is fine, but repeated use will fade plastics, etc.
Will not have any effect on the paintwork, unless you have some sort of wax or sealant on it.

Thanks Curran I didn't realise that to be honest.

I don't have time to leave microfibre cloths on the van for an hour at a time to soften up the bugs.

Is there a quicker way to get them off? They do be absolutely engraved into the front of the van. Awful awful hard get them off unless I use the TFM

tphase

I have one of these for that job....
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-28-593-Window-Scraper-Blade/dp/B00002X1ZY

galwaydude18

tphase wrote: »

I have one of these for that job....
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-28-593-Window-Scraper-Blade/dp/B00002X1ZY

Jeepers I wouldn't be using one of those on my paint work

tphase

...forgot to add, windscreen only:D

galwaydude18

tphase wrote: »

...forgot to add, windscreen only:D

Lol I was hoping that alright

galwaydude18

tphase wrote: »

...forgot to add, windscreen only:D

Lol I was hoping that alright

demanufactured

Just use TFR on the lower 3rd of the vehicle and on the area you have bugs...then snowfoam...Then wash off.

galwaydude18

demanufactured wrote: »

Just use TFR on the lower 3rd of the vehicle and on the area you have bugs...then snowfoam...Then wash off.

Will the TFR not degrade my bumpers as Curran said it can degrade plastics and rubbers over time?

Dean12319

I look after a neighbours car up and down to Dublin. It gets covered in insect remains. I've never had a problem removing them with anything other than a good rub with a wash mitt. Once your car has some protection on it bugs are generally a breeze to get off.

galwaydude18

Dean12319 wrote: »

I look after a neighbours car up and down to Dublin. It gets covered in insect remains. I've never had a problem removing them with anything other than a good rub with a wash mitt. Once your car has some protection on it bugs are generally a breeze to get off.

Apart from using TFR a few times I usually rinse the van down, one bucket to take the heavy crap off, then a second bucket that is mixed with shampoo that has a wax in it. De tar the van using panel wipe then another rinse and dry the van with dry towels.

I have never been able to scrub the bugs off using that method no matter how much I use a sponge to get them off.

I found TFR just melts them off and it so easy get them off then

Dean12319

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Apart from using TFR a few times I usually rinse the van down, one bucket to take the heavy crap off, then a second bucket that is mixed with shampoo that has a wax in it. De tar the van using panel wipe then another rinse and dry the van with dry towels.

I have never been able to scrub the bugs off using that method no matter how much I use a sponge to get them off.

I found TFR just melts them off and it so easy get them off then

Fair enough but as curran said I wouldn't use at each wash. If I was you I'd get some protection on the van you may well end up not having to use tfr just my opinion..

galwaydude18

Dean12319 wrote: »

Fair enough but as curran said I wouldn't use at each wash. If I was you I'd get some protection on the van you may well end up not having to use tfr just my opinion..

What would be a good protection to use on the van?. It goes up and down the motor way, gets manky dirty the first morn it raining going to Dublin, see's dirty mucky sites and trips to the UK as well. I like to was the van every week if possible to keep it clean looking.

Sometimes I wouldn't get a chance to de tar it tho using the panel wipe. The back doors do get destroyed in tar. After a week they can look like there full of black chips against the silver body

punisher5112

do a full decontamination and when prepared properly apply a wax/sealant this will in turn offer your paint some protection and also make it so much easier to remove dirt.

Nano products are so effective but expensive.

Curran

As said a good wax or sealant will make it easier to remove any dirt and bugs. TFR if used would effect this protection, removing it sooner than it would usually last.
As the bugs bond to the paintwork, they would be bonding to the protection instead, and this will be a smoother finish, thus easier to remove them.

Dean12319

galwaydude18 wrote: »

What would be a good protection to use on the van?. It goes up and down the motor way, gets manky dirty the first morn it raining going to Dublin, see's dirty mucky sites and trips to the UK as well. I like to was the van every week if possible to keep it clean looking.

Sometimes I wouldn't get a chance to de tar it tho using the panel wipe. The back doors do get destroyed in tar. After a week they can look like there full of black chips against the silver body

Personally on my sisters I use colinite 845 you'll find it on Detailing shed. Autoglym extra gloss protection worked pretty well too (halfords etc will stock it) collinite is a hard wearing wax I've got 5 months durability so far on the sisters not only will it help with insects but it will benefit the paintwork all around.

Extra gloss protection is a sealant it's cheaper than collinite but when I used I had no issues. Generally when applying a sealant you should follow with a wax after for longetivity but at the time I was in a hurry so stopped at the sealant held up pretty well for 3/4 months.

By Protecting it you'll limit black spots on the back. Unfortunately though no matter what tar will stick to the paint. Sorry reply was so long!

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

As said a good wax or sealant will make it easier to remove any dirt and bugs. TFR if used would effect this protection, removing it sooner than it would usually last.
As the bugs bond to the paintwork, they would be bonding to the protection instead, and this will be a smoother finish, thus easier to remove them.

By using a wax or sealent can I still use the panel wipe to take the tar off each week or two?

The wax or sealent. Is it jus a thing I wipe on and then buff off or am I going to be spending an entire day applying it to the body of the van?

Curran

Anything that is strong enough to remove tar spots will also remove a wax or sealant.

Using a wax or sealant is easy, rub it on with an applicator, and buff it off after a few minutes! I would try that out and see how you get on. Worst case scenario, after a long trip if the bugs wont come off, use your regular method, and the areas that you had to go at the bugs directly, just apply another layer of wax or sealant on these areas - so it will be a quick job!

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

Anything that is strong enough to remove tar spots will also remove a wax or sealant.

Using a wax or sealant is easy, rub it on with an applicator, and buff it off after a few minutes! I would try that out and see how you get on. Worst case scenario, after a long trip if the bugs wont come off, use your regular method, and the areas that you had to go at the bugs directly, just apply another layer of wax or sealant on these areas - so it will be a quick job!

Savage job Curran. Thanks for the help. The van is like my baby. Gets cleaned every week where possible. Inside and out. There are a few dents from when I bought it but I still like to keep it clean.

What is a good sealent or wax to use on a lot of body work? Before I use either rinse it, heavy crap off, wash with the shampoo wax stuff, panel wipe to deter them apply the sealent or wax or do I need to clay the van as well?

Dean12319

galwaydude18 wrote: »

By using a wax or sealent can I still use the panel wipe to take the tar off each week or two?

The wax or sealent. Is it jus a thing I wipe on and then buff off or am I going to be spending an entire day applying it to the body of the van?

Every time you use panel wipe/ degreaser you will remove any wax or sealant applied. My mothers silver focus boot gets covered in tar I try to de tar it every month or two.

Waxes and sealants require curing times. The two I mentioned above: collinite is applied to the whole car then leave to dry to a haze. I usually leave for 30 mins in good weather may need more.
EGP: autoglym recommends to leave sealant for as long as possible (1/2 hours) but I have buffed off after 30/45 mins. For both you'll know they are dry by going back to the panel where first started on give it a swipe with your finger if it's clear its ok to buff off.

Curran

As Dean mentioned previously, Collinite 845, is hard to look beyond - offers good protection, looks great, and very reasonably priced.

To get the maximum from any product, the preparation is key, but given its a work van, perhaps this maybe be difficult to justify putting in the time and effort, along with a few quid, into getting the job done. The paintwork doesnt need to be clayed, but it will look better for it, and the product will last longer on a clayed surface, as it is bonding to an uncontaminated surface.
To give you an example; if you were to wash, de-tar, rinse, dry and apply a wax or sealant, you might get 3 months durability from it. If you were to wash, de-tar, rinse, clay, quick wash, dry and apply a wax or sealant, you might change 3 months to 4 months durability, from the same product, with the added advantage that the paintwork will also be much cleaner looking too.
Certain bonded contamination cant be removed by regular washing, but claying will remove it - this decontamination, enhances the overall appearance too!

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

As Dean mentioned previously, Collinite 845, is hard to look beyond - offers good protection, looks great, and very reasonably priced.

To get the maximum from any product, the preparation is key, but given its a work van, perhaps this maybe be difficult to justify putting in the time and effort, along with a few quid, into getting the job done. The paintwork doesnt need to be clayed, but it will look better for it, and the product will last longer on a clayed surface, as it is bonding to an uncontaminated surface.
To give you an example; if you were to wash, de-tar, rinse, dry and apply a wax or sealant, you might get 3 months durability from it. If you were to wash, de-tar, rinse, clay, quick wash, dry and apply a wax or sealant, you might change 3 months to 4 months durability, from the same product, with the added advantage that the paintwork will also be much cleaner looking too.
Certain bonded contamination cant be removed by regular washing, but claying will remove it - this decontamination, enhances the overall appearance too!

So by claying the body it would only last a bit longer but not a hole pile longer? But the end result would be better looking?

Curran

Its hard to say how much the claying will improve durability - the van is likely to have never been clayed in its lifetime, and depending on how much contamination is in/on the paintwork will determine the durability of whatever you apply. I used those time frames as an example - but its very much a case of how long is a piece of string. What I meant by it is that of course the wax or sealant will go onto the surface, but you may not get the expected performance from it - if someone here says that X product is good for Y months, but you might only see 50% of Y months as the surface was not fully prep'd for the product to work to its maximum ability.

Regular washing removes dirt from the surface, however it will not remove bonded contamination (microscopic)....over time, the bonded contamination build up will detract from the paintworks overall appearance. Claying the paintwork, removes the bonded contamination, its hard to believe but as you clay the surface you can see the clay bar becoming more and more contaminated, and also, if the van is light in colour, the lubricant you use, will actually show signs of being dirty....almost like washing the car with dirty water.

So claying will a) remove bonded contamination, leaving a better shine, as the paintwork is fully cleansed, and b) will leave the perfect surface for any wax or sealant to be applied onto, to get the maximum potential from that product.

*Kol*

Collinite recommend to apply to small areas at a time and buff off relatively quickly compared to other waxes. It can be difficult to buff off if left too long. I wouldn't apply it to something as large as a van all at once.

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

Its hard to say how much the claying will improve durability - the van is likely to have never been clayed in its lifetime, and depending on how much contamination is in/on the paintwork will determine the durability of whatever you apply. I used those time frames as an example - but its very much a case of how long is a piece of string. What I meant by it is that of course the wax or sealant will go onto the surface, but you may not get the expected performance from it - if someone here says that X product is good for Y months, but you might only see 50% of Y months as the surface was not fully prep'd for the product to work to its maximum ability.

Regular washing removes dirt from the surface, however it will not remove bonded contamination (microscopic)....over time, the bonded contamination build up will detract from the paintworks overall appearance. Claying the paintwork, removes the bonded contamination, its hard to believe but as you clay the surface you can see the clay bar becoming more and more contaminated, and also, if the van is light in colour, the lubricant you use, will actually show signs of being dirty....almost like washing the car with dirty water.

So claying will a) remove bonded contamination, leaving a better shine, as the paintwork is fully cleansed, and b) will leave the perfect surface for any wax or sealant to be applied onto, to get the maximum potential from that product.

Thanks lads. Curran what product would you recommend to use on the van as a sealent? Also how much clay bar would I need to do an entire van that was never clayed before? And could I keep using Simoniz wash and wax that I have been using to wash the van since I bought it?

punisher5112

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Thanks lads. Curran what product would you recommend to use on the van as a sealent? Also how much clay bar would I need to do an entire van that was never clayed before? And could I keep using Simoniz wash and wax that I have been using to wash the van since I bought it?

For best results you need to look up better products.

Check out detailingshed.com

Drop Curran a pm he best to advise on some decent products.

Curran

Collinite 845 is a great all rounder given the price.

Regarding how much clay is needed, again depends on how much contamination is on/in the paintwork. Generally the clay bars are about 200g and are cut into 3 or 4 sections, and two should be plenty....assuming you've done a good job of washing and de-tar'ing before beginning to clay.

Now, Im only saying this as a general point for everyones benefit - you can use the Simoniz Wash and Wax if you wish, however the wax within the shampoo will detract from the finish that the Collinite 845 would offer. It will not effect the protection it offers but if you can imagine that the Collinite 845 is your upper most surface when you have applied it...you get the benefit from the properties it offers; nice beading and helping to keep the car/van a bit cleaner and easier to wash. If you use a Wash 'n' Wax type product, the additives within it, are left on the surface post washing. These are now what the upper most surface is, and thus it is now its properties that determine how well the car/van will bead or resist dirt, etc. There is nothing wrong with the shampoo, it will clean as normal, but it detracts from the reason you chose to apply 'x' product to the paintwork.
That said, its a work van, not a show car, so absolutely, make use of it if you arent bothered about beading and that extra bit of ease of maintenance in terms of staying cleaner for a little longer and easier to wash. The difference between using it and not using it may be minimal, but when products are used in combination, the greater the benefit that can be seen from them. So using a good sealant and a good shampoo will be far better than using no sealant and an average shampoo. Again, its a van, so it will depend on how much you really want to keep it looking well. A good claying and a sealant will make it look a lot better!

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

Collinite 845 is a great all rounder given the price.

Regarding how much clay is needed, again depends on how much contamination is on/in the paintwork. Generally the clay bars are about 200g and are cut into 3 or 4 sections, and two should be plenty....assuming you've done a good job of washing and de-tar'ing before beginning to clay.

Now, Im only saying this as a general point for everyones benefit - you can use the Simoniz Wash and Wax if you wish, however the wax within the shampoo will detract from the finish that the Collinite 845 would offer. It will not effect the protection it offers but if you can imagine that the Collinite 845 is your upper most surface when you have applied it...you get the benefit from the properties it offers; nice beading and helping to keep the car/van a bit cleaner and easier to wash. If you use a Wash 'n' Wax type product, the additives within it, are left on the surface post washing. These are now what the upper most surface is, and thus it is now its properties that determine how well the car/van will bead or resist dirt, etc. There is nothing wrong with the shampoo, it will clean as normal, but it detracts from the reason you chose to apply 'x' product to the paintwork.
That said, its a work van, not a show car, so absolutely, make use of it if you arent bothered about beading and that extra bit of ease of maintenance in terms of staying cleaner for a little longer and easier to wash. The difference between using it and not using it may be minimal, but when products are used in combination, the greater the benefit that can be seen from them. So using a good sealant and a good shampoo will be far better than using no sealant and an average shampoo. Again, its a van, so it will depend on how much you really want to keep it looking well. A good claying and a sealant will make it look a lot better!

Tell you the truth I only use the wash and wax because I bought a bottle of it in the shop when I bought the van.

I don't mind claying the van, and using products that work together for the sealent and washing.

The steel rims are shook looking so I want to sand them and spray them up as well.

I'm going to be keeping this van for a long time and I always fix anything on it right away and service it every 10000km

punisher5112

It would be nice to actually see a van clean and looked after because there as hard to spot as a cop around the place.

galwaydude18

punisher5112 wrote: »

It would be nice to actually see a van clean and looked after because there as hard to spot as a cop around the place.

I'm a Shopfitter, joiner by trade and trust me I do get covered in head to toe with dust. You would be shocked to see all the dust on the dash and my seat after a week of in and out the van. I Hoover the crap out of it. Clean it all down with warm water and the apply son of a gun all over the dash.

One spin up to Dublin and you would
wonder what ya washed the van for. I do see untold lads going round the place with dirty manky vans that haven't been touched in years.

Horrible looking. I even have the back all racked out so everything fits into the van in a set place :-)

I just want to outside to look better after a wash.

Curran

Always good to see a well kept van. The company van is usually kept fairly clean, but hasnt seen a wash in a few weeks now - must get out and do it! The last coat of HydrO2 kept it reasonably well through the past few weeks of bad weather!
How she usually looks!

galwaydude18

Curran wrote: »

Always good to see a well kept van. The company van is usually kept fairly clean, but hasnt seen a wash in a few weeks now - must get out and do it! The last coat of HydrO2 kept it reasonably well through the past few weeks of bad weather!
How she usually looks!

Ya that's really well!! Nice and clean. If it's not pouring rain tomorrow I'll wash sand clean the van and post up some pics of it for ye to give an opinion as what ye think would be the best way for me to proceed with making it better looking

crasy dash

Best looking caddy I have seen,personally when I see a van like that I pay more attention to the signage on it and actually read the details has to be good for business.

I remember when I had a 94 corolla van fellas could never figure out why I spent most Sunday mornings taking pride in washing it ah sure its only a van.

Still have photos in my shed of it was like my first baby haha.

Curran

Well, in the line of business Im in, it would look odd if it wasnt clean! :P
But you are right - a van with company signage is a reflection of the company - first impressions are important...and keeping a van clean, isnt too much work!

Now - if you seen my car...thats a different story! :P

galwaydude18

Here's the van after being cleaned. I'm waiting on new clips for the plastic trim on the sliding door to put it back on.


Also pics of the van after I detarred it using panel wipe.

galwaydude18

Pics of the van washed

galwaydude18

Last pic of the van after its washed

galwaydude18

Van after being detared

Curran

Collinite will look very well in that colour. Van look very well considering the mileage you do!

galwaydude18

Cheers Curran. You should have seen it when I first got it. The whole body was green from lying up near a tree for almost two years. The inside was all mouldy and the headliner all mouldy as well. Iv put up 80,000 km in two years in it. The wheels are a big let down on it tho. They look awful. The rims are in a bad need of sanding and spraying silver with a top coat of laquer on them.

What products would be best to use on the van?

I have it washed and detared. I guess the next step would be to clay it then apply the protection coat? What shampoo would you use with the Collinite? Would it be worth polisihing the van? I recently had some spraying done to as the sliding door decided to fall off one of the days ;-( Luckily I was only pulling off when that happened.

Curran

Its hard to say from the pictures if its worth polishing or not - in terms of how much difference it will make to the overall appearance...but it will certainly do no harm!

Any shampoo will work but something that is pH neutral, so it doesnt strip it, and something that doesnt have gloss or wax enhancers.