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Electric single oven

  • 05-01-2016 5:38pm
    #1
    mickwat155
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 296 ✭✭


    Hey guys..

    So I bought a Indesit single oven from curry's last week.. And one of the questions I asked was would it come with a plug and the sales guy said no it would need to be hardwired because a plug would melt with the heat.. But it got delivered today and loan behold there's a 13a plug on the end of it so I'm bit confused.. Was he not up to dated and is it just plug in an play??


Comments

  • #2
    crasy dash
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,626 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Some single ovens come pre wired like yours others like zannussi don't depends on the manufacturer.

    The determining factor is the kW rating of the oven if you look in the manuals provided or perhaps on the inside of the door you will see the kW rating.

    I'm.not up to date with the electrical regs etc so one of the more experienced guys on here will reply and help guide you with regards hard wiring or is it fine to just plug it in.


  • #3
    Jimmy_M
    Closed Accounts Posts: 205 ✭✭Jimmy_M


    sales people will say anything and often don't have a clue about electrics (there are obviously some v clued in sales people also - so im not tarring all with same brush).

    As said above .... they will only come with a plug if the power rating is below a certain limit (prob 3 or 4 kw - but i'm not sure)

    The reason for this is that it is safe to plug into your ordinary electrical circuits - e.g. the one that your sockets in the kitchen are wired into.

    For higher powered ovens there is a separate circuit that comes from your fuse box and usually only supplies the oven. This is wired with a thicker cable than your regular sockets are wired with. So it can handle higher power loads safely.

    Did you have an old oven before this one? You should already have a point in your kitchen where it was hard wired (i.e. no plug)
    If you're replacing an oven on this type of circuit you may be better off hard-wiring the new one into this point.
    The reason being if you are using the oven (while plugged into regular socket in the kitchen), then you switch on the kettle, while you also have a wash on in the washing machine - you may find the switch in the fuse box will start to trip.


  • #4
    mickwat155
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 296 ✭✭mickwat155


    Jimmy_M wrote: »
    sales people will say anything and often don't have a clue about electrics (there are obviously some v clued in sales people also - so im not tarring all with same brush).

    As said above .... they will only come with a plug if the power rating is below a certain limit (prob 3 or 4 kw - but i'm not sure)

    The reason for this is that it is safe to plug into your ordinary electrical circuits - e.g. the one that your sockets in the kitchen are wired into.

    For higher powered ovens there is a separate circuit that comes from your fuse box and usually only supplies the oven. This is wired with a thicker cable than your regular sockets are wired with. So it can handle higher power loads safely.

    Did you have an old oven before this one? You should already have a point in your kitchen where it was hard wired (i.e. no plug)
    If you're replacing an oven on this type of circuit you may be better off hard-wiring the new one into this point.
    The reason being if you are using the oven (while plugged into regular socket in the kitchen), then you switch on the kettle, while you also have a wash on in the washing machine - you may find the switch in the fuse box will start to trip.

    The house is over thirty years old.. It had a cooker one time there's a switch in the house for it that has a grey cable coming off it.. That's gonna be used for an electric hob.. I suppose il know in due course if I'm okay if I have the oven, the kettle and the dishwasher going at the same time


  • #5
    Jimmy_M
    Closed Accounts Posts: 205 ✭✭Jimmy_M


    Grand job...
    FYI - You should be ok to wire both oven and the hob into that same switch.
    But When you say grey cable coming off it... do you mean it is coming out into the kitchen or going back into the wall?

    If its coming out into the kitchen, the oven would have been on the end of that.
    Is it taped up or something? Be careful because it could be live.
    You should make sure the switch in the fuse box that it goes back to is always off.

    Anyway - best of luck with the new oven :)


  • #6
    aido79
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Jimmy_M wrote: »
    Grand job...
    FYI - You should be ok to wire both oven and the hob into that same switch.
    But When you say grey cable coming off it... do you mean it is coming out into the kitchen or going back into the wall?

    If its coming out into the kitchen, the oven would have been on the end of that.
    Is it taped up or something? Be careful because it could be live.
    You should make sure the switch in the fuse box that it goes back to is always off.

    Anyway - best of luck with the new oven :)

    I hope the op has not taken this advice. It is definitely not ok to put the oven and the hob on the same switch. The hob should be on a 32amp mcb and the oven will only be rated for 10 amps so should never be placed on a 32amp mcb as there a very big risk that the oven will be on fire in the event of a fault by the time the 32amp breaker has tripped.
    The oven needs to go on a separate circuit to the hob for this reason.


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  • #7
    Risteard81
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    aido79 wrote: »
    I hope the op has not taken this advice. It is definitely not ok to put the oven and the hob on the same switch. The hob should be on a 32amp mcb and the oven will only be rated for 10 amps so should never be placed on a 32amp mcb as there a very big risk that the oven will be on fire in the event of a fault by the time the 32amp breaker has tripped.
    The oven needs to go on a separate circuit to the hob for this reason.

    That isn't necessarily true. Depending on the cable supplying the oven, and the prospective fault current etc. it may be sufficient to provide adequate fault protection with the 32A MCB. Overload protection won't be required for a fixed load if the cable supplying it is suitable for the load as it cannot overload.

    Circuit protection is not there for the protection of the appliance - if the manufacturer requires this then they must fit it within the appliance.


  • #8
    aido79
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Risteard81 wrote: »
    That isn't necessarily true. Depending on the cable supplying the oven, and the prospective fault current etc. it may be sufficient to provide adequate fault protection with the 32A MCB. Overload protection won't be required for a fixed load if the cable supplying it is suitable for the load as it cannot overload.

    Circuit protection is not there for the protection of the appliance - if the manufacturer requires this then they must fit it within the appliance.

    The op said the oven was supplied with a 13amp plug. I wouldn't personally put it on a 32 amp breaker. Would you?


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