Rear screen heater element not working

veganrun

I have a 2013 Fiesta. The rear screen heater works fine apart from the bottom two or three elements. The window will clear, apart from the bottom bit where these elements are, although it will eventually clear fully but not until long after the rest has cleared.

I checked and can see parts of those elements where the line is partly broken/worn away.

Is there an easy way to fix this? The garage have suggested replacing the entire boot door which I am reluctant to do.

The window has privacy glass in-case that makes any difference.

Thanks.

rex-x

There is a little pen you can get to fill in the broken gaps, it seems to work reasonably but replacing the glass is probably your best bet.
Donkey tend to throw things in the parcel shelf or put bigger items in the boot? Would be very unusual for the tracks to break so soon unless someone was careless

veganrun

rex-x wrote: »

There is a little pen you can get to fill in the broken gaps, it seems to work reasonably but replacing the glass is probably your best bet.
Donkey tend to throw things in the parcel shelf or put bigger items in the boot? Would be very unusual for the tracks to break so soon unless someone was careless

Been looking at something like that on Amazon but the reviews aren't great, although I'm guessing there are better versions of the same product out there.

Yeah I'm reluctant to go as far as getting the door or window replaced as I'm worried that will just fix one problem and cause some other. I can sort of live with it as it is.

nmacc

This will definitely work: Conductive paint but it's expensive. I've used it many times successfully, but it is a fiddly job. You need to find the exact spot of the break and then paint it with the power off. I suggest using masking tape to keep it neat, otherwise you'll have to do a lot of cleaning up with a scalpel.

Also, put on a thin coat as a thick coat will leave hot spots and it'll look untidy while demisting.

Finding the breaks can be tricky. Usually the best way is a voltmeter or test lamp with a sharp tip on the probe. Turn on the heater, then connect one side to ground and prod the track with the probe, working your way across the broken track from the 'high' or 12V side. The meter will read a constant 12V (or the test lamp will light) until you cross the break, when it will go to zero. Remember there may be more than one break in each track.

Finally you mention that it's 'Privacy glass'. If this is factory-tinted glass, then you'll be fine, but if it's a film applied to the widow, then it will have to come off for this procedure.

Good luck

corks finest

nmacc wrote: »

This will definitely work: Conductive paint but it's expensive. I've used it many times successfully, but it is a fiddly job. You need to find the exact spot of the break and then paint it with the power off. I suggest using masking tape to keep it neat, otherwise you'll have to do a lot of cleaning up with a scalpel.

Also, put on a thin coat as a thick coat will leave hot spots and it'll look untidy while demisting.

Finding the breaks can be tricky. Usually the best way is a voltmeter or test lamp with a sharp tip on the probe. Turn on the heater, then connect one side to ground and prod the track with the probe, working your way across the broken track from the 'high' or 12V side. The meter will read a constant 12V (or the test lamp will light) until you cross the break, when it will go to zero. Remember there may be more than one break in each track.

Finally you mention that it's 'Privacy glass'. If this is factory-tinted glass, then you'll be fine, but if it's a film applied to the widow, then it will have to come off for this procedure.

Good luck

great advice,going to save it,will come in handy,tnx

colm_mcm

Often can be damaged when dealer sticker is taken off, seen lads go at Windows with Stanley blades taking the glue off :eek:

crazygeryy

veganrun wrote: »

I have a 2013 Fiesta. The rear screen heater works fine apart from the bottom two or three elements. The window will clear, apart from the bottom bit where these elements are, although it will eventually clear fully but not until long after the rest has cleared.

I checked and can see parts of those elements where the line is partly broken/worn away.

Is there an easy way to fix this? The garage have suggested replacing the entire boot door which I am reluctant to do.

The window has privacy glass in-case that makes any difference.

Thanks.

Does your insurance cover windscreen replacement?if it does and a crack should suddenly appear call them up,get windscreen replaced and rear heater problem fixed.

corks finest

colm_mcm wrote: »

Often can be damaged when dealer sticker is taken off, seen lads go at Windows with Stanley blades taking the glue off :eek:

Yep,hairdryers yor man for it

veganrun

The privacy glass is factory fitted.

I can actually see the breaks in the line. I've a funny feeling the dealer sticker thing is what caused the issue as it's kind of where that would be.

blackbox

nmacc wrote: »

This will definitely work: Conductive paint but it's expensive. I've used it many times successfully, but it is a fiddly job. You need to find the exact spot of the break and then paint it with the power off. I suggest using masking tape to keep it neat, otherwise you'll have to do a lot of cleaning up with a scalpel.

Also, put on a thin coat as a thick coat will leave hot spots and it'll look untidy while demisting.

Finding the breaks can be tricky. Usually the best way is a voltmeter or test lamp with a sharp tip on the probe. Turn on the heater, then connect one side to ground and prod the track with the probe, working your way across the broken track from the 'high' or 12V side. The meter will read a constant 12V (or the test lamp will light) until you cross the break, when it will go to zero. Remember there may be more than one break in each track.

Finally you mention that it's 'Privacy glass'. If this is factory-tinted glass, then you'll be fine, but if it's a film applied to the widow, then it will have to come off for this procedure.

Good luck

I've done this and I can't over emphasize the patience needed. It took me at least three attempts as I had missed some of the multiple breaks in the tracks. Worth it in the end.

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gogreen81

blackbox wrote: »

I've done this and I can't over emphasize the patience needed. It took me at least three attempts as I had missed some of the multiple breaks in the tracks. Worth it in the end.

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I have a similar problem . The only thing is probably I probably left it on even in summertime and I think it got burnt and broken. I can see the breaks in 3 or 4 lines . Apart from diy does any garage fix it. Checked the local garage and he didn't give a clear answer . Am
Not a diy person so unless it's very simple fix looking for othe to options
Thankks

blackbox

Wouldn't be worth a garage's while because of time involved. A garage would simply replace the entire rear screen.

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