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Pedal creep

  • 17-12-2015 11:58pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭


    As above, what causes pedal creep? I'm thinking air but don't want to go bleeding until I know for sure. Thanks


Comments

  • Site Banned Posts: 137 ✭✭MaryAntoinette


    Stuck piston/s in caliper, stuck slide pins. If it is a problem that has developed and no work done recently I would be ruling out air.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Stuck piston/s in caliper, stuck slide pins. If it is a problem that has developed and no work done recently I would be ruling out air.

    Thanking you, I'll have to go stripping it the weekend so as no recent work done. It's hardly noticeable tbh, but was an nct fail


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Stuck pistons or slide pins wont cause pedal creep, and neither will air!

    Pedal "creep" (unless you're misdescribing or I'm misinterpreting) would be caused by fluid escaping from the pressurised part of your hydraulic braking (or clutch) system when you depress the pedal. If you're losing fluid, then its likely to be leaking seals at the brake calipers. If you're not losing fluid, then its likely to be a faulty master cylinder which will need to be replaced.

    Have a look here.

    Notwithstanding that this link suggests stripping and rebuilding the master cylinder, if you have to ask what might be causing the problem, you might be better getting someone qualified to do the stripping on such a critical component of a critical system.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Avns1s wrote: »
    Stuck pistons or slide pins wont cause pedal creep, and neither will air!

    Pedal "creep" (unless you're misdescribing or I'm misinterpreting) would be caused by fluid escaping from the pressurised part of your hydraulic braking (or clutch) system when you depress the pedal. If you're losing fluid, then its likely to be leaking seals at the brake calipers. If you're not losing fluid, then its likely to be a faulty master cylinder which will need to be replaced.

    Have a look here.

    Notwithstanding that this link suggests stripping and rebuilding the master cylinder, if you have to ask what might be causing the problem, you might be better getting someone qualified to do the stripping on such a critical component of a critical system.
    Thanks for the info. Sounds like master cylinder (good I've a spare) I like to do my own work tbh as I don't trust alot of qualified mechanics due to numerous bad experiences. I've got a mechanical background and trade so I've got adequate experience for most things bar auto electrical/electronics lol :) thanks again.
    Ps. I will seek assistance if I've the slightest doubt.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Good stuff. Swopping it out isn't a big deal o long as you know how to bleed as I assume you do with a mechanical background.

    My earlier comment may have sounded a bit harsh. I meant that stripping down a master cylinder and putting it back together needs a lot more competence than just replacing one. There's only one of them in the system. If it fails because of an error, you're screwed. Even a mistake on a caliper, while not good, would likely not be as catastrophic - there's 4 of them.

    Best of luck with it and let us know how you get on.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Avns1s wrote: »
    Good stuff. Swopping it out isn't a big deal o long as you know how to bleed as I assume you do with a mechanical background.

    My earlier comment may have sounded a bit harsh. I meant that stripping down a master cylinder and putting it back together needs a lot more competence than just replacing one. There's only one of them in the system. If it fails because of an error, you're screwed. Even a mistake on a caliper, while not good, would likely not be as catastrophic - there's 4 of them.

    Best of luck with it and let us know how you get on.
    I'll try get at it the weekend if I can mate. I recall getting the rear lines replaced a few months ago due to corrosion so might have a peak there too. Flared copper joints that were used and they may be passing. Thanks again avns1...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    Bad flexi hoses can stretch a bit as pressure is applied. New hoses are fairly cheap.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 287 ✭✭winnie the schtink


    is it diesel?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    is it diesel?

    It is. May I ask why it matters? Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 287 ✭✭winnie the schtink


    does it only happen with the vehicle stationary and the engine running?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    does it only happen with the vehicle stationary and the engine running?

    Yes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 287 ✭✭winnie the schtink


    google Brakesint.co.uk and look at section 202 should help you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1 dannyosh


    question? Pedal creep is it when the pedal releases slowly or stick to the floor


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    google Brakesint.co.uk and look at section 202 should help you

    Thanking you winnie. Looks like I'll have to test it somewhere else.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    dannyosh wrote: »
    question? Pedal creep is it when the pedal releases slowly or stick to the floor

    It's when you pump the system and hold pressure and the pedal slowly creeps down on you. Whilst the engine is idling. If it does it whilst off, get it seen to asap


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