Adding a radiator?

colm_mcm

We have a normal 3 bed 60s house, there's a double radiator in the kitchen, single in the hall, and a single rad in the 3 bedrooms (all bar 1 are around 5 foot, one in the box room is smaller)
For some reason (probably the open fire) the sitting room doesn't have a radiator in it at all. The rad in the hall is back to back with where we'd want to put one (5ft double I suppose)
Would it be a big job to either DIY this (I can do basic stuff like fix burst pipes, plumb/move taps etc) or just get a professional in to do it (tbh this would probably be safer!)
What sort of money would a rad be.

Heating is an oil burner in the shed, no idea about its capabilities.

Walter Becket

Can you put up a photo of one of the rad valves showing the pipe I want to see what type of pipe you have gunbarrel would make it not a diy job for most diy'ers.

colm_mcm

Walter Becket

It's not gb that's something. I'm assuming the rad on the photo is the one in the hall.
Turn off the boiler.
Drain the system.
Take the rad in the hall off the wall .
Cut the pipes a about 3" from the floor.
Drill holes through the wall.
Put tees on the pipes and route new pipes through the wall.
Fit and plumb the new rad.
Fit and plumb the old rad a bit higher on the wall than it was.
Fit trv's while you're at it.
Repair the wall.
Hover up the mess.
Well that's only if you want more work.
When you have the system filled up and running again you will need to balance it for the new rad to work properly.

K.Flyer

Walter Becket wrote: »

It's not gb [...]

Are you sure?
Looks like gb to me, looks like it has a lot of paint on it though.
Colm, scrape off some of the paint from the pipe back to the bare metal to determine which type it is first before doing anything else.
Hopefully its copper, it will make an easier job for you.

Walter Becket

K.Flyer wrote: »

Walter Becket wrote: »

It's not gb [...]

Are you sure?
Looks like gb to me, looks like it has a lot of paint on it though.
Colm, scrape off some of the paint from the pipe back to the bare metal to determine which type it is first before doing anything else.
Hopefully its copper, it will make an easier job for you.

A better picture would help

Walter Becket

colm_mcm wrote: »

Is there a plastic cover on the pipe?

K.Flyer

You could be right, I was looking at it on the phone last night, looking at it on the bigger screen now, could be a cover or just bad camera angle.

colm_mcm

There's a plastic sleeve on tha pipe.

This is the actual one we're talking about. The other one is in the kitchen. Couldn't pic it last night as there wasn't enough light in the hall. It's def a copper pipe



thanks for the advice so far

colm_mcm

When you say position the old rad a bit higher, is this a requirement or does it just make it a bit easier?

DublinDilbert

is it a suspended timber floor or a concrete slab? If it's a timber floor it might be much easier and neater to join below floor level, you would need to lift some boards to see. Some 1/2 inch pex could go through the wall (sleeve it in some 3/4 pex) and bend up to the new rad. If it's a solid floor fit a T piece on each pipe like was suggested above.

colm_mcm

concrete floor and wall.

Walter Becket

colm_mcm wrote: »

When you say position the old rad a bit higher, is this a requirement or does it just make it a bit easier?

To make it easier. This is a difficult job. You will have to use a hole saw to go through the skirting board, then a masonry drill for the wall. Make the hole big 40mm this is to make life easier for you. Filling in a bigger hole isn't that much harder than a small one but routing pipe and tightening joints in a confined space is difficult.

DublinDilbert

colm_mcm wrote: »

concrete floor and wall.

If its concrete I would solder in two T's, will look much neater just need steel wool, flux and blow torch (look up youtube). Just get a few spares and practice on some old pipe outside first, you might need to remove the skirting or use old plasterboard to protect it from the heat. On the other side of the wall solder on two elbows to bring the pipe up into the new rad.

As said above, drill a larger hole through the wall and sleeve the pipe (after soldering) to stop any rubbing. Then fill in around the hole with calk.

TOEJOE

Walter
Some GB has a copper finish on it if he had a magnet would he find out that way, just a suggestion your the expert.

Walter Becket

TOEJOE wrote: »

Walter
Some GB has a copper finish on it if he had a magnet would he find out that way, just a suggestion your the expert.

I think a know all might be more accurate but thanks for the compliment.
Magnet is a good idea to our be sure.

colm_mcm

Just a quick update on this, can't believe it took over a year to actually get around to doing it.
Thanks for all the advice, did it yesterday.
Biggest pain was draining the system as there was no drain. Got a second hand double radiator of a similar vintage to the rest of the ones in the house, cleaned it out and painted it up.
Can't believe I had no leaks (yet!)
Costs were:
Radiator €25
Valves €10
4 elbows and 2 T's €12
PTFE tape €1
16mm masonary bit €3.50
Plumbing spinner €11
Rawlplugs and screws €1
1/2 inch pipe €6
So total cost just under €70

Dtp1979

colm_mcm wrote: »

Just a quick update on this, can't believe it took over a year to actually get around to doing it.
Thanks for all the advice, did it yesterday.
Biggest pain was draining the system as there was no drain. Got a second hand double radiator of a similar vintage to the rest of the ones in the house, cleaned it out and painted it up.
Can't believe I had no leaks (yet!)
Costs were:
Radiator €25
Valves €10
4 elbows and 2 T's €12
PTFE tape €1
16mm masonary bit €3.50
Plumbing spinner €11
Rawlplugs and screws €1
1/2 inch pipe €6
So total cost just under €70

Plumber to repair pipe after flood damage....€350
Kidding. Hope it all works well