Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Shifter indexing

  • 28-09-2015 9:20pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭


    What went in: new gear cable for rear derailleur, new cassette, new chain. If I get the high gear right then the chain won't drop easily from the lowest one. When the highest is ok it messes up the low gears. What I'm doing wrong? Is the cable too slack or tight? Or the derailleur bent? The derailleur never took a hit and the shifting was ok with old chain and casette.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 70 ✭✭mikedoherty99


    Have you tried starting off with the chain on the smallest cog
    Tighten the barrel adjuster and take up the slack on the cable and work from there using the barrel adjuster


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,846 ✭✭✭Zippe


    Hey,

    1)Remove cable from derailleur and tighten in cable adjuster,
    2) line up derailleur on smallest cog using the limit screw,
    3) when running smooth tightin up cable,
    4)shift up 1 click,if derailleur won't shift, open out cable adjuster till it shifts,
    5) flick up and down the gears and shoud be ok now...

    You are prob lining up derailleur with cable and not screws and that's where your going wrong, other thing could be ware on shifter...

    If any prob, pm me your no and I can talk you through it...

    Cheers zip


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,304 ✭✭✭koutoubia


    Unhook the cable form the rear mech.
    Pull on the cable and make sure the shifter is the position for the 12 tooth sprocket.
    While still holding the cable by hand go thru the whole motion of the shifter range to see if the cable is snagging anywhere.
    End up back in the position for the 12t.
    On the back of the rear mech there is a screw.
    Wind that screw in all the way then back out 1 and a half turns.
    Pull the cable hand tight and re-attach to the rear mech.
    Throw the lever 1 click/1 gear then start turning the pedals and the chain should be 'chattering' but not shifting.Wind the screw at the back till you get a clean chain jump up one cog.
    Then go back down to the 12t.The screw may need some fine adjustment.
    Once you get that combo right you should get a clean shift all the way down and up.
    If not then your cassette maybe on wrong or the rear mech hanger is bent!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    Yes I have. I pulled the cable tight with pliers while on the smallest cog, wrapped around the bolt, derailleur connected. Left a bit of room to play both the barrels at each end. The indexing is ok(ish) but often find myself reaching for the barrel on the handlebar I assume could be better.
    Edit: 9 speed Sora, 11-32 cassette, x9.93 chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Luxman


    Can I suggest you don't pull cable with pliers but by hand strength instead?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 772 ✭✭✭GTDolanator


    Have you changed the outter or just the inner cable?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    I see I have to start from scratch without pliers. There's only one cable on the shifter(it runs outside). I try it with your recommendations. Huge thanks to all!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    padyjoe wrote: »
    Yes I have. I pulled the cable tight with pliers while on the smallest cog, wrapped around the bolt, derailleur connected.

    Don't wrap around the bolt, run it straight beside the bolt and clamp tight. Wrapping it may affect how the derailleur shifts and upset the indexing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    I've tried everything today (after a night shift- not much patience) no results. Same pattern: it nicely goes up to the biggest cog, while on inside on chainring. Then 1 click one, won't shift, click 2, comes down to 2nd biggest, click 3, goes to the 4th cog, skipping the 3rd. When I adjust for the biggest cogs, starting from 11 tooth, the cable is so slack, it shift into 2nd on 2 clicks. I think one of the components must be not working right. I cleaned the rear mech too, it moves smoothly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,304 ✭✭✭koutoubia


    One of 3 things spring to mind straight away.
    1) The spacers on your cassette are on wrong. Doubt this is the case though!

    2) You cable is getting snagged somewhere.When you try to release the slack ie go to a smaller cog the cable is being held somewhere therefore throwing the whole sequence out. Quite likely!

    3)Your shifter is toast. Quiet likely as well!


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    Thank you! Just to add something: the rear hub is a 105 5800 (if I remember right) which can take an 11 speed too. My setup is SRAM PG950 9 speed cassette and the spacer came with the hub. (The spacer is foolproof, it allows you put on only one way.) The big q: is there a thicker spacer for 9 speed? (The manual said the spacer to be used for 10 speed, no mention of 9!)
    That Sora gruppo has done 6k kms only, I've looked after them, kept lubed, never crosschained.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    To rule it out I'dbuy a new cable and fit it and check the outers while your at it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,304 ✭✭✭koutoubia


    To rule it out I'dbuy a new cable and fit it and check the outers while your at it.

    Ahhhh....You didnt change the outers?!?!
    Very possible your cable is getting 'held' in the outer casing!
    Get yourself a can of silicone spray from lidl and give the outer a good lube or change it altogether!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    I beg your pardon man! :-( I'm so stupid! Your question was about the outer casing. (I thought outer cable.) Feeling like an idiot!
    Have you changed the outter or just the inner cable?

    F*ck sake, lads! If you change the cable, the outer supposed to be changed too? I didn't know that. ( I always get a sticky brake after wash.) Because the cable brand new, I try to lube the outers while getting new ones.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,890 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    padyjoe wrote: »
    I beg your pardon man! :-( I'm so stupid! Your question was about the outer casing. (I thought outer cable.) Feeling like an idiot!



    F*ck sake, lads! If you change the cable, the outer supposed to be changed too? I didn't know that. ( I always get a sticky brake after wash.) Because the cable brand new, I try to lube the outers while getting new ones.

    I wouldn't always change the outer with the cable. Put some light mineral oil on the cable and run it through the outer, wipe off any excess. See what that does for you.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    The outers don't have to be changed each time you fit a new cable. If the cable slips through without snagging and there is no apparent damage then there's no need to change it. I have changed cables on my winter bike several times but still have the original (jagwire) outers that came on the bike.


Advertisement