Two Pack Paint

Smalltom

Hi all. Quick question. A panel beater is going to paint the bonnet, mudguards, steps, engine panels etc for a very reasonable price if I strip them off the tractor. It's a JD so he said he'd use two pack paint and get the colour mixed. I did the rims on the tractor but used genuine JD paint. The question is that will the two pack match up ok or will it be wrong etc? Thanks in advance folks.

Justjens

All paints have a code number, so once he has the JD code the paint will match.

GenSi7

Hi Tom,

There are a number of factors to consider. Firstly, in the interest of full disclosure I work at Cashels so I have no hidden agenda here i.e. no affiliation with John Deere.

If this is a respray/upgrade job then "standard colours" go out the window. When we order paint we specify a RAL number or BS (British Standard) code, but this is used for new products coming off a paint assembly line. Due to UV rays and general usage, colours will fade over time whether it's a John Deere tractor or a Cashels bale handler. Therefore when you respray it, unless you respray the entire product, you will see differences in the shade of colour between panels even if you use the RAL/BS code.

A panel beater is very experienced in this kind of work so I would trust his judgement i.e. matching the ACTUAL colour is going to be more accurate than ordering John Deere Green & Yellow unless you are completely respraying the machine.

Two-pack just means two components. You have the actual paint which contains the colouring agents and some solvent, but you also add an "activator" which is a hardener or curing agent and ensures that through a combination of chemical reaction (heat, evaporation etc), the finished paint will harden correctly and give you a long-lasting finish i.e. the solvent evaporates, leaving the paint behind to adhere to the surface.

Two-pack paints need to be mixed correctly (3 to 5 parts paint to 1 part activator depending on the brand, as well as some thinners) to ensure the correct finish. Like any paint job, preparation is key. The original paint finish needs to be well sanded or even shot-blasted depending on its condition and a good layer of primer (which MUST be compatible with the top coat (finish colour) being applied afterward.

Hope the above info helps. Some pictures of the finished job would be great!

Smalltom

GenSi7 wrote: »

Hi Tom,

There are a number of factors to consider. Firstly, in the interest of full disclosure I work at Cashels so I have no hidden agenda here i.e. no affiliation with John Deere.

If this is a respray/upgrade job then "standard colours" go out the window. When we order paint we specify a RAL number or BS (British Standard) code, but this is used for new products coming off a paint assembly line. Due to UV rays and general usage, colours will fade over time whether it's a John Deere tractor or a Cashels bale handler. Therefore when you respray it, unless you respray the entire product, you will see differences in the shade of colour between panels even if you use the RAL/BS code.

A panel beater is very experienced in this kind of work so I would trust his judgement i.e. matching the ACTUAL colour is going to be more accurate than ordering John Deere Green & Yellow unless you are completely respraying the machine.

Two-pack just means two components. You have the actual paint which contains the colouring agents and some solvent, but you also add an "activator" which is a hardener or curing agent and ensures that through a combination of chemical reaction (heat, evaporation etc), the finished paint will harden correctly and give you a long-lasting finish i.e. the solvent evaporates, leaving the paint behind to adhere to the surface.

Two-pack paints need to be mixed correctly (3 to 5 parts paint to 1 part activator depending on the brand, as well as some thinners) to ensure the correct finish. Like any paint job, preparation is key. The original paint finish needs to be well sanded or even shot-blasted depending on its condition and a good layer of primer (which MUST be compatible with the top coat (finish colour) being applied afterward.

Hope the above info helps. Some pictures of the finished job would be great!

Janey that's a fair response-thanks! The guy doing the painting used to work for the best AND most expensive crash repair garage in town and is doing it since he is 15. He re sprays so many vintage cars and tractors that he's just gone out on his own and has the work ahead of him to do so. I asked him to view the tractor-2002 JD 7810, and he said he's to cut out and replace a couple of bits of the mudguards, weld the steps in a place or two and he's gonna sand/glass blast all metal and reprime all as he says generally tractor companies do a kiss my ar*e job of priming at the factories, hence paint not really lasting as it should. I'll send you a few pics no problem when he's finished but won't be getting it done for a couple of weeks as he's up the walls as it is.