bale lifter

Kevhog1988

i did a search and latest thread is 3 yrs old. can anybody reccoment best single bale lifter. dont want hydraulic or anything. just standard ut one that will last.

ganmo

From what I've seen there's not much different between brands.
Fleming here and it's grand

Timmaay

ganmo wrote: »

From what I've seen there's not much different between brands.
Fleming here and it's grand

I assume the OP mean mounted on 3 point linkage, agreed very little between any of them, go with the cheapest once the steel isn't too thin etc, the only thing I'd say is I found the hydraulic top link to be a huge help, less bales ripped, and none would fall off the back like with a standard top link.

Kevhog1988

Timmaay wrote: »

I assume the OP mean mounted on 3 point linkage, agreed very little between any of them, go with the cheapest once the steel isn't too thin etc, the only thing I'd say is I found the hydraulic top link to be a huge help, less bales ripped, and none would fall off the back like with a standard top link.

yep 3 point linkage for 3600 or 135.

selectamatic

Nugent or flemming seem to be the most popular and I've heard good reports on them. We have the original lifter that cashels used to make and its sound however they have since changed their design and have heard nothing but bad reports about them since. Alot depends on the terrain and bales ye have nothing like good fusion bales and a bumpy road to test a lifter! Although with a 135 or 3600 ye wont be drawing them in flat out anyways

pedigree 6

I have a paddle type one non tipper for back of tractor made by daltons corries bagnelstown. I have it 15 years now and still use it if field is near stack. Bring one on front loader and a bale on the back. The hydraulic toplink is a great addition in recent years to it.

tanko

Fleming heavy duty model here, good strong lifter.

Farmer

theemigrant wrote: »

yep 3 point linkage for 3600 or 135.

If it's for a light tractor, make sure it's NOT one that has the lift arm brackets out the front, thus pushing the bale four inches further out and lifting the front of the tractor even more

Kevhog1988

Farmer wrote: »

If it's for a light tractor, make sure it's NOT one that has the lift arm brackets out the front, thus pushing the bale four inches further out and lifting the front of the tractor even more

will be putting weight on front and most likely just moving hay and straw. dont feed haylage anymore.

Farmer

theemigrant wrote: »

will be putting weight on front and most likely just moving hay and straw. dont feed haylage anymore.

That's fair enough, but the less weight you have to put out the front the better from a (manual?) steering perspective, esp when no load at the back. Anyway, you'll have no bother with hay

Kevhog1988

Farmer wrote: »

That's fair enough, but the less weight you have to put out the front the better from a (manual?) steering perspective, esp when no load at the back. Anyway, you'll have no bother with hay

i wouldnt attempt silage. my father used to do it a few years ago amd would get me and cousin to sit on the bonnet to balance it . it was complete stupidity

C0N0R

Are paddle ones better than the old type?? I see you can get non tipping ones cheaper to, need to buy a new one ourselves, have an old one here but the new bales are just to heavy for it. How much is a hydraulic toplink?

ganmo

C0N0R wrote: »

Are paddle ones better than the old type?? I see you can get non tipping ones cheaper to, need to buy a new one ourselves, have an old one here but the new bales are just to heavy for it. How much is a hydraulic toplink?

in around 250 when i priced them last year

bogman_bass

I've had nugents and flemings over the years. Can't fault either

9935452

bogman_bass wrote: »

I've had nugents and flemings over the years. Can't fault either

The new flemmings are meant to be fair light . . Well made but light .
Made in poland i believe. i was told 250 euro for one

Reggie.

9935452 wrote: »

The new flemmings are meant to be fair light . . Well made but light .
Made in poland i believe. i was told 250 euro for one

There's two types. Normal and heavy duty. Should never get anything less than HD

9935452

Reggie. wrote: »

There's two types. Normal and heavy duty. Should never get anything less than HD

Didnt know that. i make my own bale handlers anyway. You can build them to your own spec them. Last one was a double with paddles, made from 10mm wall thickness 4 inch box , heavy duty bushes . You dont get them that strong.

I would be wary of fleming stuff anyway. bought a 7 ft nugent power box a few years back for 1200 . the equivilent fleming was 780. Putting them side by side the fleming was way lighter, not braced as well, paint was poorer.

Miname

Wouldn't go near a Fleming. I'd definately go tipper and go heavy duty. Hydraulic top links vary from 170 up but a good manual one set right is 100%.

Reggie.

Miname wrote: »

Wouldn't go near a Fleming. I'd definately go tipper and go heavy duty. Hydraulic top links vary from 170 up but a good manual one set right is 100%.

Uncle has a HD fleming and was thinking of upgrading myself to be honest

cornholiooo

Would a Fleming hd single bale lifter be ok for a MF 165 and how much should it cost new. It's supposed to be for a tractor over 80 hp like
The neugent I tried has the brackets for the lift arms too far forward and in turn carries the bale that few inches further away from the tractor making the front more inclined to go up with silage bales on.

Reggie.

cornholiooo wrote: »

Would a Fleming hd single bale lifter be ok for a MF 165 and how much should it cost new. It's supposed to be for a tractor over 80 hp like
The neugent I tried has the brackets for the lift arms too far forward and in turn carries the bale that few inches further away from the tractor making the front more inclined to go up with silage bales on.

Can't see why a 165 wouldn't work one

selectamatic

Ya be no bother to a 165. Also plenty of weight on the front is the only job for lightish 2wd tractors when dealing with proper fusion bales.

Reggie.

Man down

print screen windows 7

Kevhog1988

Reggie. wrote: »

Man down

print screen windows 7

a a bit of duct tape will sort that right out

dohc turbo2

Reggie. wrote: »

Man down

print screen windows 7

The wall of that box looks light

Reggie.

dohc turbo2 wrote: »

The wall of that box looks light

I'd ssy she's done. The arms got twisted on it. Might be in the market for another one

More shiney

9935452

Reggie. wrote: »

I'd ssy she's done. The arms got twisted on it. Might be in the market for another one

More shiney

Chain binder/ratchet and chain of the likes that lads use to tie down track machines to low loader, from the top link to the end of the arm and tighten til she is back in shape, go a little bit further than that and start welding.
Get a length of 75mmx10mm plate and wrap this around the outside and weld in place,
She will be as good as ever.
I did this to one with paddles and she was way worse than yours and she is stronger than ever now

C0N0R

What make was it reggie?? Had it long?

Kevhog1988

9935452 wrote: »

Chain binder/ratchet and chain of the likes that lads use to tie down track machines to low loader, from the top link to the end of the arm and tighten til she is back in shape, go a little bit further than that and start welding.
Get a length of 75mmx10mm plate and wrap this around the outside and weld in place,
She will be as good as ever.
I did this to one with paddles and she was way worse than yours and she is stronger than ever now

did same to a plant trailer a few months ago.. stuck a heap of weld on amd its grand

cornholiooo

selectamatic wrote: »

Ya be no bother to a 165. Also plenty of weight on the front is the only job for lightish 2wd tractors when dealing with proper fusion bales.

How much is plenty? Roughly like.

9935452

theemigrant wrote: »

did same to a plant trailer a few months ago.. stuck a heap of weld on amd its grand

Cheaper than buying a new one

9935452

cornholiooo wrote: »

How much is plenty? Roughly like.

we had 20 stone on a 135 at one stage

cornholiooo

Kevhog1988

9935452 wrote: »

Cheaper than buying a new one

uncle gave it to me in exhange for a days work. just needs a new floor & lights now.

selectamatic

cornholiooo wrote: »

How much is plenty? Roughly like.

anything round the 100kg mark or as we like to do "keep adding weight till she stops rearing" proper MF jerrycan weights can be dear and hard got as the vintage boys snap them up to help their tractors stand out at shows, we us cast iron moulds or "tools" that the auld fella had from when he was a tool maker, they're rectangular blocks and we have a homemade frame to leave them on.

Reggie.

9935452 wrote: »

Chain binder/ratchet and chain of the likes that lads use to tie down track machines to low loader, from the top link to the end of the arm and tighten til she is back in shape, go a little bit further than that and start welding.
Get a length of 75mmx10mm plate and wrap this around the outside and weld in place,
She will be as good as ever.
I did this to one with paddles and she was way worse than yours and she is stronger than ever now

Not that simple.

The arms that go under the bale are the bother. They are shaped like a U and this is what is twisted. When the tip of one is touching the ground the other is 4 inched off the ground.

Not sure if it can be twisted back. Might just be handier to replace.

Reggie.

C0N0R wrote: »

What make was it reggie?? Had it long?

I think it was made by a local man years ago. Was given to me about 6 years ago

9935452

Reggie. wrote: »

Not that simple.

The arms that go under the bale are the bother. They are shaped like a U and this is what is twisted. When the tip of one is touching the ground the other is 4 inched off the ground.

Not sure if it can be twisted back. Might just be handier to replace.

If the pipe itself is twisted. New pipe.
If the box iron that the pipes are welded to is twisted . Cut a slot most of the way through the pipe where it meets the box. Pull the pipe til its level with the other one and weld back together.

Reggie.

9935452 wrote: »

If the pipe itself is twisted. New pipe.
If the box iron that the pipes are welded to is twisted . Cut a slot most of the way through the pipe where it meets the box. Pull the pipe til its level with the other one and weld back together.

Oh I know that. But the effort :rolleyes:

9935452

Reggie. wrote: »

Oh I know that. But the effort :rolleyes:

I d see it as a challenge though. I like to fix broken machinery and have something useful after

IH784man

Reggie. wrote: »

Oh I know that. But the effort :rolleyes:

Sounds like you want a new shiny bale lifter for the 398

Reggie.

IH784man wrote: »

Sounds like you want a new shiny bale lifter for the 398

Ssssh