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Joining water pipe.

  • 02-08-2015 2:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,376 ✭✭✭


    I am replacing some pipe work. Is there any difficulty in getting a joiner to join 3/4 inch heavy duty to 1/2 inch heavy duty?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭Farrell


    893bet wrote: »
    I am replacing some pipe work. Is there any difficulty in getting a joiner to join 3/4 inch heavy duty to 1/2 inch heavy duty?

    Did itm, Phil Mac plastic connection, local store should have it, just say what you're doing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,126 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    They are known as 'reducers'. Local COOP store should have them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 169 ✭✭Belongamick


    For what its worth most important part of joining (in my oponion) is to cut the pipe clean and square.
    In the past I've used hacksaw's and tried to clean up the burr left behind etc but the plubmers type cutters, about the size of a vicegrip, cuts a perfect clean and square face to butt your tap, connector, ballcork etc to.
    Well worth the investment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,126 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    One of these - they're a great job alright.

    71%2Bl0-2x2aL._SX522_.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    Trying to fix a leak at the moment; having to add an extra short piece of 3/4" hydrodare to 'bridge the gap', and at the same time replacing the old brass t-piece with a new Philmac one (it leaked where the joint towards a water trough is). The new T-piece, (3/4" NG), the 'flow' side is fitting and sealing fine, but the existing pipe 'away' from the flow doesn't seem to fit any of the connectors/couplers I have (I have both HG and NG). It also seems to be a lighter-walled pipe than a bit of the cut NG pipe I brought for the span. Is there pipe that is lighter than NG again? It's been in the ground quite a while now...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Try and get your hands on the old style Philmac fitting. There is inserts with grooves on them and a rubber o ring.

    The newer fittings are a bitch to leak although you can now get real light inserts to solve that problem somewhat.

    IMO old ones were a superior job although they had slightly lower flow rates due to bigger inserts.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,754 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    MfMan wrote: »
    Trying to fix a leak at the moment; having to add an extra short piece of 3/4" hydrodare to 'bridge the gap', and at the same time replacing the old brass t-piece with a new Philmac one (it leaked where the joint towards a water trough is). The new T-piece, (3/4" NG), the 'flow' side is fitting and sealing fine, but the existing pipe 'away' from the flow doesn't seem to fit any of the connectors/couplers I have (I have both HG and NG). It also seems to be a lighter-walled pipe than a bit of the cut NG pipe I brought for the span. Is there pipe that is lighter than NG again? It's been in the ground quite a while now...

    Old 1/2 '' could be smaller. I had some that the new type (push-in) philmac won't work on, but the old type with the red ring and the red insert worked ok on. How old is your 1/2 '' inch pipe?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Old 1/2 '' could be smaller. I had some that the new type (push-in) philmac won't work on, but the old type with the red ring and the red insert worked ok on. How old is your 1/2 '' inch pipe?

    'Tis 3/4", and quite old - at least 30 years I think. I didn't install it.
    Thanks for tips.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    cjpm wrote: »
    Try and get your hands on the old style Philmac fitting. There is inserts with grooves on them and a rubber o ring.

    The newer fittings are a bitch to leak although you can now get real light inserts to solve that problem somewhat.

    IMO old ones were a superior job although they had slightly lower flow rates due to bigger inserts.

    Sorted. In the end the new Philmac 'push-in' fitting worked best. Problem was that the existing old pipe wasn't even NG, it was older again with lighter walls, thus some of the NG fittings I had wouldn't work with it. You live and learn...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Local Group Water Scheme used that friggin Northern Ireland stuff when they set up back in the late 70's. Before Philmac fittings came on the market it was a pain to get it joined successfully.


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