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Worth upgrading to a racing frame?

  • 13-07-2015 10:37am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 942 ✭✭✭


    In May, I posted a query about upgrading wheels. I asked boardies who had upgraded if they were satisfied. On the basis of the replies, I purchased Dura Ace C24s. I'm delighted with them, and they make a BIG difference on the climbs.

    It's got me thinking: If upgrading to racing wheels makes such a difference, what would upgrading the frame do for me? I currently race a Merckx which has 'sportive-racing' geometry, whatever the hell that is. I vaguely recall the blurb saying something like 'it's a sportive bike with geometry tending towards a racing frame' or 'it's a racing bike with relaxed geometry'.

    I've developed this dangerous notion of upgrading the frame. I'm assuming a racing frame would have 3 benefits:

    1. Lightness. I could probably get a frame over several hundred g lower if I looked hard enough.
    2. Geometry. My current frame is fairly slammed at present, so not sure how much benefit I'd get here.
    3. Aero frame. I've always thought that this is a load of bull (except MAYBE for TTs). But I'm here to learn.

    I'd be grateful to hear the experience of anyone who has upgraded from a fast sportive type frame to a full on racing frame, using the same components (or at the very least, the same wheels). Do you think the upgrade make a big difference?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    Why am I suddenly picturing...



    :D


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,899 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    New bike. Definitely a new bike. Keep your current bike as a winter/training bike and treat yourself to something stiff and aero.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    what kind of riding do you do? if you move from sportive geometry to racing geometry you could sacrifice and lot of comfort.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    @Brian?
    I already have a winter bike, and a separate training bike. I tend to use either of these on sportives and longer summer spins too. The bike referred to in my OP is used only for racing and for leagues. If I can afford to keep it, I will, although I'll have to find some sort of niche for it. Just how many niches are there?!

    @Lenny
    Fair point re comfort. I find the current bike exceptionally comfortable. I've never ridden a full on race bike. How bad are they comfort wise?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    Seriously, guys, any thoughts/opinions/views on your experiences in moving from a sportive bike to a race bike would be appreciated? Did you notice a significant improvement in speed?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 289 ✭✭uphillonly


    Some bike shops let you try before you buy and have test bikes. Gives you a chance to have a feel of the racing geometry.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭OleRodrigo


    Is there that much difference? A smaller sized ' sportive ' bike with a longer stem and steeper drop from the saddle to the bars is essentially a race bike, even if the head-tube is relatively large. The tubing and frame material might help with better power transfer but its the aggressive position the frame size gives you that's key, I would have thought.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,185 ✭✭✭nilhg


    My first proper bike was a 60cm trek 2.5 alpha, the frame size was a tad big for me really but I never had a problem with it fit wise and always found it very comfortable and that was having put up over 27k kms on it including two WW200s. When I started racing club league I always felt compared to others I was very un aero, even with the stem slammed I was sitting high so when I was upgrading I wanted something with a more aggressive position, a bit mad really I'm 49 never going to set the world alight but when did that ever stop someone buying what they want.
    My new good bike ( I still have the trek) is a felt f1 56cm which with a slightly longer stem gives me the same reach as the trek but a lot lower stack height, I've found it very comfortable and am really happy with it so far, actually I crashed and broke the first frame, went straight out and bought another one with the insurance money.
    Anyway to try and answer your question, I find both bikes comfortable, different certainly but had no worries about taking the felt on our recent Mizen to Malin spin (turned the stem to rise the bars a little, turned it straight back when I got home), in a race the real difference is when you have to accelerate, just for the first few pedal revolutions, once you get up to speed there's not much difference (that's with the same wheels). The big difference I find is cornering at speed and the general handling on fast descents, it's like the bike is on rails, it seems much more stable, which if you think about it is common sense, the center of gravity is lower so easier to stay stable.

    Hope that helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,604 ✭✭✭petethedrummer


    First, slam the stem on your current bike and see if you can spend a couple of hours riding in the drops.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    sprotive bikes normally have some comfort built in, race bikes are designed for going fast, with not so much thought for comfort. Look at the classics and the bikes the pros use - they dont use their fast fast bikes, they use their gran fondo or sportive bikes because of the extra comfort. PTD's suggestion above is very good. Set your current bike up as agressive as you can, ride around in the drops and see how you get on. Some race bikes hoods may be lower than some sportive bikes drops. Unless you were racing, and wanted an aggressive position, I would expect that you would be better off on a sportive bike. The aggressive position also changes your position on the bike, and if you dont have good core strength you may end up slower on an aggressive bike. You often see people who pull out their TT bikes, but due to the position cant make any power. You may also end up with aches in your shoulders, lower back, glutes, and will have to lift your head a lot more giving you neck ache. Does anyone in your club have a race geometry bike that is in your size? Long/short tubes that are not in your size are not the answer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    nilhg wrote: »
    The big difference I find is cornering at speed and the general handling on fast descents, it's like the bike is on rails, it seems much more stable, which if you think about it is common sense, the center of gravity is lower so easier to stay stable.

    Hope that helps.

    I think this is more to do with the trail, rake and wheelbase of the felt verses the rake trail and wheelbase of the other bike rather than the COG.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    Good advice above, thanks. I've one 10 mm spacer left below the stem, so I'll pull that out and give it a go.
    Interesting point made by nilhg about acceleration v cruising speed (that it's in the acceleration he notices a difference).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 430 ✭✭Craig06


    What length is your stem?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    100 mm (from centre of bars to centre of headset).


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