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Bottom fill vs top fill

  • 30-06-2015 2:33pm
    #1
    farmerjj
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭


    Always use top fill water trough,s here, but was considering buying a few bottom fill concrete water trough what's the advantage or is there any??


Comments

  • #2
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Bit more fiddley trying to replace a seal, or clear and replace the little nozzle if something blocks it. Especially in cold weather.
    If it goes dry, cattle cannot get at the ball cock arm and break it.


  • #3
    White Clover
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,765 ✭✭✭White Clover


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Bit more fiddley trying to replace a seal, or clear and replace the little nozzle if something blocks it. Especially in cold weather.
    If it goes dry, cattle cannot get at the ball cock arm and break it.


    Grit and ballcocks don't go well together either.


  • #4
    orm0nd
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭orm0nd


    big disadvantage with some of the bottom fill is that there is no non return valve on them

    had to modify some here (just put a one way valve on the inlet pipe )


  • #5
    frazzledhome
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    orm0nd wrote: »
    big disadvantage with some of the bottom fill is that there is no non return valve on them

    had to modify some here (just put a one way valve on the inlet pipe )

    Why do you need a non-return?

    We go for bottom fill now and use Philmac fast flow top fill ball valves. Place as you would a normal valve and tie float to arm with proper length chain.

    The proper bottom fill valves are expensive and shyte IMO


  • #6
    stretch film
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,057 ✭✭✭stretch film


    frazzledhome wrote: »
    Why do you need a non-return?

    We go for bottom fill now and use Philmac fast flow top fill ball valves. Place as you would a normal valve and tie float to arm with proper length chain.

    The proper bottom fill valves are expensive and shyte IMO

    In the event of a pump failing could you syphon out the contents of the through into the water system . Not good if house is on same system. Hence the need for a nrv


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  • #7
    Timmaay
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,396 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    stretch film wrote: »
    In the event of a pump failing could you syphon out the contents of the through into the water system . Not good if house is on same system. Hence the need for a nrv

    Does each trough need a NRV or could I just put one on the supply to the paddocks? Bottom fill 140gls troughs coming in at 25euro cheaper than top fill for me.


  • #8
    ganmo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    Timmaay wrote: »
    Does each trough need a NRV or could I just put one on the supply to the paddocks? Bottom fill 140gls troughs coming in at 25euro cheaper than top fill for me.

    Without nrv one leak/burst connection could drain all the troughs


  • #9
    MfMan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    Bump.

    Thinking of replacing a couple of old legacy water troughs as just sick to death of cattle breaking of ballcock stems which I cannot protect adequately. Any particular make recommended? Top fill v bottom fill? How are bottom-fill floats attached to the outlet valve? Are they vulnerable to cattle messing with them?


  • #10
    gctest50
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    MfMan wrote: »
    Bump.

    Thinking of replacing a couple of old legacy water troughs as just sick to death of cattle breaking of ballcock stems which I cannot protect adequately. ......

    this kind of one might be easier to cover :

    ( be nice if they had a more industrial version )

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-brass-shank-side-entry-fill-valve/49088



    2Z4yBAt.jpg


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