Thermmostat just turning off rads, boiler still going?

runswithascript

Hi

Previously we had a timer and a separate thermostat, no zoned heating. If we had the heat on, either constant/boost/timed, whenever the analogue dial thermostat reached 20 degrees or we set it as low as possible it would turn the oil boiler off.

We now have an entirely new heating system where the rads are on one zone, and the immersion on another. I queried with the electrician who installed the EPC digital thermostat why I could still hear the oil boiler going with the stat turned off and he told me this is so there is hot water.

Is turning the thermostat off the same as setting it to the lowest setting (below the current room temp) so it does not turn the heat on?

Either way, is this normal, or should the thermostat turn the actual boiler off when the stat is turned off/set to the lowest setting (below the current room temp)?

Dtp1979

dusf wrote: »

Hi

Previously we had a timer and a separate thermostat, no zoned heating. If we had the heat on, either constant/boost/timed, whenever the analogue dial thermostat reached 20 degrees or we set it as low as possible it would turn the oil boiler off.

We now have an entirely new heating system where the rads are on one zone, and the immersion on another. I queried with the electrician who installed the EPC digital thermostat why I could still hear the oil boiler going with the stat turned off and he told me this is so there is hot water.

Is turning the thermostat off the same as setting it to the lowest setting (below the current room temp) so it does not turn the heat on?

Either way, is this normal, or should the thermostat turn the actual boiler off when the stat is turned off/set to the lowest setting (below the current room temp)?

If wired correctly, the thermostat will turn off that zone, and subsequently the boiler, if no other zones are calling for heat. What controls have you on your hot water?

runswithascript

Dtp1979 wrote: »

If wired correctly, the thermostat will turn off that zone, and subsequently the boiler, if no other zones are calling for heat. What controls have you on your hot water?

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The hot water tank is old so no controls at all, short of some valves I saw in there at one point.

The plumber told me the reason for the weak flow of hot water out of the taps is because the tank needs a separate pump or to be put in the attic (or both?) of our bungalow. We will have him back at some point to do that for us, but not at the moment.

Since there is no separate stat for the hot water is the thermostat working as described best practice? It just seems such a waste that it does not knock the boiler off, considering it is supposed to save money, and I appreciate it is saving some as it turns the rads off.

Wearb

If your large water tank is in the the attic, this is what is supplying the hot water pressure.

If your plumper thinks that rising your copper cylinder will improve the pressure in such a system, you need to question your choice of plumber.

Wearb

If your new stat turns off the rads, then it must me wired to a motorised valve. The addition of a cylinder timer/stat wired in conjunction with your existing system would give you greatly improved control.

runswithascript

Wearb wrote: »

If your large water tank is in the the attic, this is what is supplying the hot water pressure.

If your plumper thinks that rising your copper cylinder will improve the pressure in such a system, you need to question your choice of plumber.

Old cottage, water tank on ground floor. Raising that to the attic would help, no? And do you think we would also need a pump then or would a pump do instead of raising it?

Wearb wrote: »

If your new stat turns off the rads, then it must me wired to a motorised valve. The addition of a cylinder timer/stat wired in conjunction with your existing system would give you greatly improved control.

So if we had that installed, we would still have the existing stat turning off the rads when the room where it is reached optimal temperature, but how would the cylinder timer/stat work. Is that like my description of how things used to be, basically the stat knocks off the boiler? Though if that were the case it would make the existing stat redundant.

Please explain this to me as if I were 10 years old.

Dtp1979

Basically, you need seperaye time and temperature control on your zones, which in your case are heating and hot water. Get a dual timeclock. I'd also get a plumber whose familiar with wiring heating controls, instead of an electrician to wire this.
Ask for it to be interlocked to the boiler as I said in my first post

beanie10

Should be wired as follows:
You need a 2 channel time clock. 1 channel for hot water the other for heating.
The heating Chanel sends power to room stat which sends power to heating motorised valve.
The hot water Chanel sends power to tank stat which then sends power to hot water motorised valve.
Both motorised valves should have an auxiliary contact(usually orange and grey cores).
Join the 2 grey together and join the 2 oranges together. Use the orange as switch wire to burner and pump. Put *permanent* power to grey.

** If a solid fuel with back boiler exists then the wiring here will be slightly different as you will need an electrical interlock,ie solid fuel pump and oil burner should not run at same time.

Wearb

The other 2 lads have explained what is needed for extra control. there are other way of doing the same thing, but you need to discuss that with whoever is doing the job.

Most older bungalows have their hot water supply feed from a tank in the attic and it quite happily provides enough pressure for most needs. I have noticed in modern times that there seems to be a need for "power washer type" pressure in taps and especially showers. That may change with the advent of water charges.

Putting the large tank in the attic will be the most trouble free supply for the future, if you are happy with the pressure from it. Otherwise go for a pump and leave the tank where it is.

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

Should be wired as follows:
You need a 2 channel time clock. 1 channel for hot water the other for heating.
The heating Chanel sends power to room stat which sends power to heating motorised valve.
The hot water Chanel sends power to tank stat which then sends power to hot water motorised valve.
Both motorised valves should have an auxiliary contact(usually orange and grey cores).
Join the 2 grey together and join the 2 oranges together. Use the orange as switch wire to burner and pump. Put *permanent* power to grey.

** If a solid fuel with back boiler exists then the wiring here will be slightly different as you will need an electrical interlock,ie solid fuel pump and oil burner should not run at same time.

There's absolutely no reason why both pumps can't work together at the same time.

beanie10

This causes pitching (Water coming out through overflow in attic) especially as stove gets hot.

OP may not have stove, I just threw it in as an option.

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

This causes pitching (Water coming out through overflow in attic) especially as stove gets hot.

OP may not have stove, I just threw it in as an option.

If it's plumbed correctly then two pumps can work perfectly well together. It only pitches when the installation is done incorrectly

beanie10

Imagine a situation where rads/cylinder are hot and stove is hot and oil burner is hot. Thermostat on burner will cut oil off however stove cannot cool down as quickly. I see it time after time where hot water in stove back boiler has no where to go but expand to expansion tank in attic and then overflow.
Has been a regulation for few years now to incorporate an electrical interlock to cut oil burner off when solid fuel pump comes on.

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

Imagine a situation where rads/cylinder are hot and stove is hot and oil burner is hot. Thermostat on burner will cut oil off however stove cannot cool down as quickly. I see it time after time where hot water in stove back boiler has no where to go but expand to expansion tank in attic and then overflow.
Has been a regulation for few years now to incorporate an electrical interlock to cut oil burner off when solid fuel pump comes on.

What? Please, show me this regulation.
A heating system expands 4 % when fully hot. If it's filling the tank through the expansion then the tank is too small. If it's filling the tank through the vent, ie pitching, then it's plumbed incorrectly

beanie10

Hey, you may be right with the plumbing end, but take it from a REC who has been upgrading heating systems for 2 local authorities over last 6 years that as I described is particularly specified on how a heating system is wired involving an oil burner and solid fuel burner.
Your description of plumbing may be correct in a perfect system but its clear that OP system is not plumbed or wired correctly and more than likely will pitch when 2 heating sources are running simultaneously.

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

Hey, you may be right with the plumbing end, but take it from a REC who has been upgrading heating systems for 2 local authorities over last 6 years that as I described is particularly specified on how a heating system is wired involving an oil burner and solid fuel burner.
Your description of plumbing may be correct in a perfect system but its clear that OP system is not plumbed or wired correctly and more than likely will pitch when 2 heating sources are running simultaneously.

If I was waiting for a sparks to wire heating system controls correctly I'd be old and grey.
I'm talking about systems that are plumbed correctly therefore there's no need to compensate with controls that won't allow both to run at the same time. Plus, I'd love to see this regulation your talking about

Tony Beetroot

Any you tube videos to help the op?

Dtp1979

Tony Beetroot wrote: »

Any you tube videos to help the op?

Not really. Just get a plumber in who understands heating controls

beanie10

beanie10 wrote: »

Hey, you may be right with the plumbing end, but take it from a REC who has been upgrading heating systems for 2 local authorities over last 6 years that as I described is particularly specified on how a heating system is wired involving an oil burner and solid fuel burner.
Your description of plumbing may be correct in a perfect system but its clear that OP system is not plumbed or wired correctly and more than likely will pitch when 2 heating sources are running simultaneously.

I love that your a Sparks talking a plumber through the principle of pitching especially a plumber who already understands the wiring requirements of a S-plan;)

beanie10

Unless he is a REC it's illegal for him to touch wiring controls. I have given advise on electrical controls in which I'm trained in and authorised to work on.Gasman you have nothing to contribute to this thread. Your post is pointless so don't lecture me on wiring. You don't need to look too far for regs on boiler interlocking.

Op if it were me I would want it wired with the extra control in the manor already mentioned, not only to reduce the cost of running the boiler but also to prevent scalding in the event of the boiler thermostat being turned to a very high temperture.

In the event that you can't fit a electric cylinder thermostat I would fit a mechanical thermostat like a cytol valve which will control the temperture of the hot water in the cylinder and may also allow the boiler to achive temperture earlier hopefully reducing wastage.

Wearb

beanie10 wrote: »

Unless he is a REC it's illegal for him to touch wiring controls. I have given advise on electrical controls in which I'm trained in and authorised to work on.Gasman you have nothing to contribute to this thread. Your post is pointless so don't lecture me on wiring. You don't need to look too far for regs on boiler interlocking. Anyways I'm done I'll leave you guys to slapping each other on the arse all night.

A reference to those regs would be nice??? I regularly do such work and I always thought I was allowed to do so. Have I missed some new regulation?

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

Unless he is a REC it's illegal for him to touch wiring controls. I have given advise on electrical controls in which I'm trained in and authorised to work on.Gasman you have nothing to contribute to this thread. Your post is pointless so don't lecture me on wiring. You don't need to look too far for regs on boiler interlocking. Anyways I'm done I'll leave you guys to slapping each other on the arse all night.

I'm not doubting the reg exists. It amuses me that it exists and I'd love to see it that's all. And it's not illegal for me to work on heating controls either

beanie10

Yes check CER website illegal to work on domestic wiring unless you are REC. however you can work on commercial installation at the moment but they are talking about changing that too. Suppose to be heavy fines or possible jail time.

Wow, why are sparks such hard work?

beanie10

beanie10 wrote: »

Yes check CER website illegal to work on domestic wiring unless you are REC. however you can work on commercial installation at the moment but they are talking about changing that too. Suppose to be heavy fines or possible jail time.

Nope, Rgi can work and self certify from the spur out.

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

Yes check CER website illegal to work on domestic wiring unless you are REC. however you can work on commercial installation at the moment but they are talking about changing that too. Suppose to be heavy fines or possible jail time.

I'm talking about not allowing solid fuel and oil to work at the same time reg

Wearb

I am also asking about not being allowed to work on heating controls. Have you a link to that reg? Am I no longer allowed to do the wiring on the system so long as a reci wires from consumer unit to heating spur?

Wearb

Wearb wrote: »

I am also asking about not being allowed to work on heating controls. Have you a link to that reg? Am I no longer allowed to do the wiring on the system so long as a reci wires from consumer unit to heating spur?

In fairness lots of Sparks are unaware that another trade can legally wire domestic heating controls.

Wearb

Don't be too fair. This forum isn't a place to try and bluff your way through things you don't completely understand.

The regular posters here (on P&H) are very amenable to questions, but likewise, feel the need to protect the casual reader from inaccurate posts masquerading as knowledgable advice.

Tony Beetroot

beanie10 wrote: »

Suppose to be heavy fines or possible jail time.

A man went down for 3 life sentences last week for wiring a plug backwards, this electricity is deadly dangerous all these electrons.

JohnnieK

Time to get the pop corn out :-D

Tony Beetroot

You are very lazy, get off your arse and do something instead of eating pop corn and watching chick flicks.

JohnnieK

Tony Beetroot wrote: »

You are very lazy, get off your arse and do something instead of eating pop corn and watching chick flicks.

And miss this!!

beanie10

Dtp1979 wrote: »

I'm talking about not allowing solid fuel and oil to work at the same time reg

Fair point. Several new heating systems I've wired plumber has requested this. I just assumed this was a reg, I may be wrong.

gary71 wrote: »

Nope, Rgi can work and self certify from the spur out.

I've trawled through CER and Safe Electrical documents there and all I can find is if work is carried out by non REC the work needs to be certified by ECSSA or RECI. I would have concerns with RGI's wiring through timeclocks,stats,motorised valves, relays etc and I think this is a fair point.
It's always specified that plumber issue controls to electrician free issue for electrician to wire up. Don't gat me wrong I'm not A hero rounding up names of people working on electrical systems and reporting them. To be honest couldn't care less.I can certify my work and if any part is not completed by me I make it quite clear on the cert.

gary71 wrote: »

Wow, why are sparks such hard work?

Wearb wrote: »

Don't be too fair. This forum isn't a place to try and bluff your way through things you don't completely understand.
The regular posters here (on P&H) are very amenable to questions, but likewise, feel the need to protect the casual reader from inaccurate posts masquerading as knowledgable advice.

I would take this as a personal attacked but if you read the OP have I given any wrong advice. I think not.I have not given anybody here "advice" on how to plumb- I know where my expertise ends.

You would be rightly concerned if electricians were plumbing heating systems, I would be rightly concerned with plumbers wiring heating systems. Alot would tell you how they need controls to work but give them 3 channel timeclocks or boiler stats and they scratch there head.
I have come across a job where plumber has wired his own heating system.
These would be rough ie standard flex instead of HR flex, 0.75mm flex fused at 13amp, gas burners fused at 13 amps, free for all on colour codes, but best ever was earth of a motorised valve connected to switch wire and he couldn't understand why fuse keeps blowing.

From OP it appears that electrician has no timeclock installed and plumber has no motorised valve on hot water circuit.Without having motorised valve on hot water circuit you cannot an interlocking system.

Dtp1979

If your plumber requested that his systems are wired that way then he's obviously not competent enough to plumb them correctly.
As for electricians who wire heating controls, I've yet to come across one whose done it right. I'm sure plenty of sparks do them properly but I've yet to see it. Only this week I came across a pipe stat wired backward and the permenant live for the heating was coming from the fuse board and also the lighting circuit. But that's just my experience. For some reason, sparks think light switches are the main control for zones

Wearb

@beanie10
My comments were aimed at you and all who quote unfounded facts.

You ask if you gave wrong advice. Well yes you did. When someone states a request from a plumber and then claims that it is a regulation, it undermines the advice we give to our customers. Also someone reading this thread (had it been left unchallenged ) might assume that any of us wiring a heating system were acting outside of our ability and outside the law.

Those were my main reasons for my post.

beanie10

Dtp1979 wrote: »

If your plumber requested that his systems are wired that way then he's obviously not competent enough to plumb them correctly.
As for electricians who wire heating controls, I've yet to come across one whose done it right. I'm sure plenty of sparks do them properly but I've yet to see it. Only this week I came across a pipe stat wired backward and the permenant live for the heating was coming from the fuse board and also the lighting circuit. But that's just my experience. For some reason, sparks think light switches are the main control for zones

I find it hard to believe in all your years, be it alot of few, you have not come across a correctly wired heating system. The mechanical takes lead on heating system and should make sure it's wired correctly. Plumber throw out literature for mechanical plant like no-ones business. Request replacement literature and common response is " sure wire it up cant be that hard". Electrician left to figure out is this a volt free or switch enabled contact, know if voltage is put onto volt free contact PCB is blown. Try get a points list for BMS panel- reply" Wha'st that?Sure just run the cable. It will be grand"

Wearb wrote: »

@beanie10
My comments were aimed at you and all who quote unfounded facts.

You ask if you gave wrong advice. Well yes you did. When someone states a request from a plumber and then claims that it is a regulation, it undermines the advice we give to our customers. Also someone reading this thread (had it been left unchallenged ) might assume that any of us wiring a heating system were acting outside of our ability and outside the law.

Those were my main reasons for my post.

You still fail to point out the wrong advice i have given to the OP situation!
It's obviously not plumbed or wired right and IF he has a solid fuel stove chances are it may pitch if both burners are on simultaneously.
Is there anything wrong in the way I have described interlocking the 2 burners. If so please advise.
A typical situation in a home is owner comes home turns on oil burner and lights stove.After about 1 hour stove is hot enough to sustain the heating system. Why do you still need the oil burner running. This is where the solid fuel pipe stat take master control over heating system and as stove reaches 50-60 deg contacts change state and turn on solid fuel pump and kills power to auxillary contact on motorised valve thus turning off oil burner.It may or may not be a reg as I stated this came from a plumber. At very least its an extension of SEAI state as interlocking. And to be honest specifications over last few years on Local Authority housing are insisting on this.

Please advise if the way I have described wiring heating controls is dangerous or inefficient. From what I can see its will cut out pitching when 2 burners are on and will use less oil.
I have my own house done this way and I am absolutely delights with it.

Dtp1979

Nobody said it was wrong or dangerous to do it that way.
You originally said you CANT have both pumps going at the same time. I said you can if it's plumbed correctly. Simple.

Wearb

@beanie

I have pointed out the wrong information you gave on the thread. It is immaterial whether you aimed it at the op or not. I was chalanging parts of your assertions regardless of who they were aimed at.

Anyway I have achieved my goal of not letting false assertions go unchallenged and I don't want further dilute the op's thread.

Right OP just to clarify:D

You need your wiring updated to include a second motorised valve controlled by a cylinder stat allowing the boiler to switch off when the cylinder is fully heated all this controlled by your two zone programmer.

If it's not viable to do this then look at a mechanical temperture control with a auto bypass to give you a element of control over the temperture of your hot water and possiblily reducing fuel waste (but not a lot)


A S-plan wiring diagram: http://www.electriciansblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/S-Plan-Twin-Zone-Wiring-Diagram.png

(In most installation the boiler manufactures instructions should be looked to for wiring instructions for domestic heating)

beanie10

Wearb wrote: »

@beanie

I have pointed out the wrong information you gave on the thread. It is immaterial whether you aimed it at the op or not. I was chalanging parts of your assertions regardless of who they were aimed at.

Anyway I have achieved my goal of not letting false assertions go unchallenged and I don't want further dilute the op's thread.

Are you saying to interlock the 2 burners is wrong, is this the false assertion.
I have already clearly stated that plumbers have requested to interlock the 2 burners and I assumed this must be a new reg. What more do you need me to state. You have not shown that it is not a reg.
Interlock as stated by SEAI is to stop needlessly heating zones that are not requested by occupier, or to stop burners pumping hot water into closed valves. Do you not think that interlocking burners also falls under this? ie when stove is pumping hot water into rads that the oil burner should be knocked off.
I fail to see where the false assertion is. I have not diluted this thread. Yourself and Dtp1979 have attacked myself and my posts but still have not successfully argued your points.
For every one liner you pull that says RGI can wire heating controls I can pull another thats states that non REC cannot work on domestic wiring without certification from an electrical governing body.

@Dtp1979. Any heating system controlled by a light switch would have been suggested by the plumber. Thrust me I have numerous first hand experience of that.

Jeez the fear and alarm here should someone suggest that its illegal for non REC's to work on domestic wiring.

beanie10

gary71 wrote: »

Right OP just to clarify:D

You need your wiring updated to include a second motorised valve controlled by a cylinder stat allowing the boiler to switch off when the cylinder is fully heated all this controlled by your two zone programmer.

If it's not viable to do this then look at a mechanical temperture control with a auto bypass to give you a element of control over the temperture of your hot water and possiblily reducing fuel waste (but not a lot)


A S-plan wiring diagram: http://www.electriciansblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/S-Plan-Twin-Zone-Wiring-Diagram.png

(In most installation the boiler manufactures instructions should be looked to for wiring instructions for domestic heating)

Should the plumbing not be updated to include a second motorised valve?? Cant wire to what is not there. OP is not wired right but in all fairness vital mechanical plant is missing to wire to.

Seriously though OP the best advice you can get is on the first page of this thread.Tell plumber you want motorised valve on cylinder circuit and tell electrician you want a timeclock and cylinder stat.

beanie10

beanie10 wrote: »

Should the plumbing not be updated to include a second motorised valve?? Cant wire to what is not there. OP is not wired right but in all fairness vital mechanical plant is missing to wire to.

Seriously though OP the best advice you can get is on the first page of this thread.Tell plumber you want motorised valve on cylinder circuit and tell electrician you want a timeclock and cylinder stat.

Your being a bit silly now.

Go back and read my post especially the bit you high lighted where I mentioned a second motorised valve.

Wait, hold on.... I didn't mention the valve needed to be plumbed as well as wired, imagine that, that would of been funny if the OP was left with a motorised valve swinging in the air because of my post:o

beanie10

gary71 wrote: »

Your being a bit silly now.

Go back and read my post especially the bit you high lighted where I mentioned a second motorised valve.

Wait, hold on.... I didn't mention the valve needed to be plumbed as well as wired, imagine that, that would of been funny if the OP was left with a motorised valve swinging in the air because of my post:o

Who's been silly now?:D This thread is heavily leaned towards blaming electricians for heating systems not working correctly as pointed out by Dtp1979 numerous times.
You stated that the wiring should be updated to include a 2nd motorised valve.This advice is incorrect. The plumbing should be updated to include a 2nd motorised valve.You were implying that the electrician is wrong for not having the motorised valve installed. With an attitude like that it seems to me that you would be incapable of explaining how you require your heating system to be wired to an electrician.
And you have thanked numerous posts advising me on how to wire heating systems.

Dtp1979

QUOTE
Are you saying to interlock the 2 burners is wrong, is this the false assertion.
I have already clearly stated that plumbers have requested to interlock the 2 burners and I assumed this must be a new reg. What more do you need me to state. You have not shown that it is not a reg.
@beanie
So because an incompetent plumber gets you to wire his systems because they pitch water, you assume it's a regulation, come on here and tell us all it a regulation to do it that way..........and if we can't prove it's NOT a regulation, that makes you right?????

beanie10

beanie10 wrote: »

Who's been silly now?:D This thread is heavily leaned towards blaming electricians for heating systems not working correctly as pointed out by Dtp1979 numerous times.
You stated that the wiring should be updated to include a 2nd motorised valve.This advice is incorrect. The plumbing should be updated to include a 2nd motorised valve.You were implying that the electrician is wrong for not having the motorised valve installed. With an attitude like that it seems to me that you would be incapable of explaining how you require your heating system to be wired to an electrician.
And you have thanked numerous posts advising me on how to wire heating systems.

Qualified electricians need to start taking more ownership of their heating electrical work, the OP has a system that could scald but paid to have a system that offered controllability and safety, if a sparks doesn't understand the safety implications he shouldn't be wiring it and if he does he should walk, the standard of domestic heating wiring is brutal and at times dangerous but rarely will the sparks walk a way from a job they know is wrong(I have never known it), as most wiring is done by qualified electricians they can have a big impact on the standard of work that gets done.

Any of my comments are aimed at bad tradesmen like the OPs irrespective of trade, I always cuddle:o a good sparks in appreciation of them understanding my profession, a quilified sparks should really understand what can go wrong with the components being wired as they have a duty of care, no decent installer/plumber/RGI is going to ask a sparks to do bad work so it would be lovely to see sparks walking away from those who do ask like the OPs and stop enabling them.

beanie10

Dtp1979 wrote: »

QUOTE
Are you saying to interlock the 2 burners is wrong, is this the false assertion.
I have already clearly stated that plumbers have requested to interlock the 2 burners and I assumed this must be a new reg. What more do you need me to state. You have not shown that it is not a reg.
@beanie
So because an incompetent plumber gets you to wire his systems because they pitch water, you assume it's a regulation, come on here and tell us all it a regulation to do it that way..........and if we can't prove it's NOT a regulation, that makes you right?????

No it doesnt make it right never implied that. But interlocking 2 burners is not wrong and should be done as it cuts down on oil usage. The main benefit of an interlocking system is to cut oil usage. Interlocking burners goes the extra step and is a better job. So unless you can tell me its dangerous or give me a reason why it shouldnt be done stop putting the idea down.
By the way it was more than 1 plumber that requested oil burner to be shut off as stove pump comes on.
You really need to move on from this and maybe admit that you have come across an electrician that knows more about wiring than you do!

Dtp1979

beanie10 wrote: »

No it doesnt make it right never implied that. But interlocking 2 burners is not wrong and should be done as it cuts down on oil usage. The main benefit of an interlocking system is to cut oil usage. Interlocking burners goes the extra step and is a better job. So unless you can tell me its dangerous or give me a reason why it shouldnt be done stop putting the idea down.
By the way it was more than 1 plumber that requested oil burner to be shut off as stove pump comes on.
You really need to move on from this and maybe admit that you have come across an electrician that knows more about wiring than you do!

Mate every electrican knows more about wiring than me. Maybe not heating controls though.
As for wiring boilers the way you do, I didn't once say it was wrong or unsafe to do it that way. Your now using the excuse that it's more efficient. Your original reason was that 2 pumps cannot work in unison together and I corrected you on that. I never said interlocking like you do it was a bad idea

beanie10

beanie10 wrote: »

No it doesnt make it right never implied that. But interlocking 2 burners is not wrong and should be done as it cuts down on oil usage. The main benefit of an interlocking system is to cut oil usage. Interlocking burners goes the extra step and is a better job. So unless you can tell me its dangerous or give me a reason why it shouldnt be done stop putting the idea down.
By the way it was more than 1 plumber that requested oil burner to be shut off as stove pump comes on.
You really need to move on from this and maybe admit that you have come across an electrician that knows more about wiring than you do!

If you wish to have it explained why he pulled you on it I'd ask you to start your own thread as it's unfair to pull this off topic on the OP (who has yet to mention solid fuel)and I know I am as guilty.

OP sorry for the digression if there is anything you wish clarified please ask:D