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GROWLING DOG

  • 15-05-2015 2:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭


    I have a six year old male neutered bichon frise. Compared to a bichon frise I had before he has a few behavior issues and a few eccentricities but one I am particularly concerned about. He hates being moved off the sofa when he is comfortable and I don't blame him for that as I'd be the same. I usually cajole him along as he grumbles and growls a bit. However he's getting worse and this morning I was rushing to get to work (he comes with me) he growled and tried to bite me. I'm not sure if he would have only mouthed at me as he has done before, snapped but stopped before he caused damage.

    I'm not sure what to do. He is in very good health, walked regularly, easy to train to do tricks, much loved and gets loads of attention. He had another very annoying habit of running around barking like a lunatic in work (I work outside) but I cured that by putting his lead on it and it trails behind him. He's very calm with the lead on.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,528 ✭✭✭ShaShaBear


    I have a six year old male neutered bichon frise. Compared to a bichon frise I had before he has a few behavior issues and a few eccentricities but one I am particularly concerned about. He hates being moved off the sofa when he is comfortable and I don't blame him for that as I'd be the same. I usually cajole him along as he grumbles and growls a bit. However he's getting worse and this morning I was rushing to get to work (he comes with me) he growled and tried to bite me. I'm not sure if he would have only mouthed at me as he has done before, snapped but stopped before he caused damage.

    I'm not sure what to do. He is in very good health, walked regularly, easy to train to do tricks, much loved and gets loads of attention. He had another very annoying habit of running around barking like a lunatic in work (I work outside) but I cured that by putting his lead on it and it trails behind him. He's very calm with the lead on.

    Try getting a very high value treat like ham or chicken, and when you want him off the couch, get down on the ground and hold the food where he can see it. Tell him down and give him the treat the second he does it. Eventually he should get down in excitement at the prospect of something much better than staying on the couch. You might need to hold the food in front of him and lead him down the first few times.

    Chances are he growled and realised that you left him alone. Now he's established that growling or snapping means he gets to stay where he is rather than having to move. You need to make it an exciting thing to do!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭FlowerGarden


    ShaShaBear wrote: »
    Try getting a very high value treat like ham or chicken, and when you want him off the couch, get down on the ground and hold the food where he can see it. Tell him down and give him the treat the second he does it. Eventually he should get down in excitement at the prospect of something much better than staying on the couch. You might need to hold the food in front of him and lead him down the first few times.

    Chances are he growled and realised that you left him alone. Now he's established that growling or snapping means he gets to stay where he is rather than having to move. You need to make it an exciting thing to do!

    I will start training him off as you suggest. Thanks so much for the advice!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,969 ✭✭✭hardCopy


    You get to work with your dog!


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    What you describe is called resource guarding: using aggression to hold on to a prized resource, such as food, toys, comfort, sometimes even bizarre things like vomit!
    To be honest, whilst rewarding him for getting down off the couch on command is heading down the right road, it is possibly not really going to address the issue.
    If your dog has just had dinner, and entrenches himself on the sofa, he's less likely to be bribed away from his comfy spot by food. It's also possible that he'll see through your game pretty quickly, and not move for you whether you've food or not.
    In situations where a dog is resource guarding his spot on the couch, it is not a good idea to continue to allow him have unfettered access to the furniture: I have no problems with dogs sharing furniture with people, but when it becomes a problem with the dog guarding it, then sorry pooch, you don't get to use it any more! At least, not until you can be polite about it! So, I'd be inclined to have a rule: he's not allowed up on the furniture unless you're there already, AND by invitation only. At all other times, he should be in his bed. If he gets up on the furniture outside permitted times/scenarios, here's what I'd do...
    I would never put myself in a position with a resource guarding dog where he can ignore my requests to move. For this reason, I would strongly suggest keeping a lead on him whilst he's indoors, so that if you want to move him from the couch to the floor, you can make it happen by picking up the lead and gently leading him down off the couch. No pleading, no negotiation: ask him to get down, and follow through by leading him down. When he's been down for a few moments and settles in his bed, THEN reward him, with food, petting, praise, attention. Maybe even give him a stuffed Kong toy to settle with.
    If he gets out of his bed, say "ah, ah!" (or similar) and lead him back into his bed... the first few days you may have to do this a good few times.
    Never leave a lead attached to him unless you're there to supervise.
    Unless you add T&Cs to resource-guarding dog's access to resources, the level of aggression often escalates, and they are often quicker to snap at people they're not so familiar with. So, something's got to give her OP, you need to get yourself into a position where you control his access to resources, in a way that means you don't have to plea-bargain with him :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭FlowerGarden


    DBB wrote: »
    What you describe is called resource guarding: using aggression to hold on to a prized resource, such as food, toys, comfort, sometimes even bizarre things like vomit!
    To be honest, whilst rewarding him for getting down off the couch on command is heading down the right road, it is possibly not really going to address the issue.
    If your dog has just had dinner, and entrenches himself on the sofa, he's less likely to be bribed away from his comfy spot by food. It's also possible that he'll see through your game pretty quickly, and not move for you whether you've food or not.
    In situations where a dog is resource guarding his spot on the couch, it is not a good idea to continue to allow him have unfettered access to the furniture: I have no problems with dogs sharing furniture with people, but when it becomes a problem with the dog guarding it, then sorry pooch, you don't get to use it any more! At least, not until you can be polite about it! So, I'd be inclined to have a rule: he's not allowed up on the furniture unless you're there already, AND by invitation only. At all other times, he should be in his bed. If he gets up on the furniture outside permitted times/scenarios, here's what I'd do...
    I would never put myself in a position with a resource guarding dog where he can ignore my requests to move. For this reason, I would strongly suggest keeping a lead on him whilst he's indoors, so that if you want to move him from the couch to the floor, you can make it happen by picking up the lead and gently leading him down off the couch. No pleading, no negotiation: ask him to get down, and follow through by leading him down. When he's been down for a few moments and settles in his bed, THEN reward him, with food, petting, praise, attention. Maybe even give him a stuffed Kong toy to settle with.
    If he gets out of his bed, say "ah, ah!" (or similar) and lead him back into his bed... the first few days you may have to do this a good few times.
    Never leave a lead attached to him unless you're there to supervise.
    Unless you add T&Cs to resource-guarding dog's access to resources, the level of aggression often escalates, and they are often quicker to snap at people they're not so familiar with. So, something's got to give her OP, you need to get yourself into a position where you control his access to resources, in a way that means you don't have to plea-bargain with him :)

    Thanks DBB for your advise, I really appreciate the help. I just do question whether its is resource guarding. He guards his bone and his toys sometimes and doesn't want anyone near them. However this is different. He does want to share the couch, his favorite thing is snuggle on the sofa with anyone and everyone. He is just too comfortable and doesn't want to move at times and growls and is aggressive because he knows I'm bringing him outside to the cold. Would you still recommend the same training? ( Will have to get a bed as you can probably guess where he sleeps at the moment!)


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    He is just too comfortable and doesn't want to move at times and growls and is aggressive because he knows I'm bringing him outside to the cold

    The resource doesn't have to be a tangible object. Your dog for all intents and purposes is guarding his comfort, which to him at the moment you try to move him, is a valuable resource.
    So yes, same way of dealing with it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,819 ✭✭✭✭peasant


    Mightn't do any harm to also remind him again who's boss.

    By that I don't mean the usual "alpha" crap of wrestling your dog to the ground, insisting that you're first through doors etc but something different.

    The catchphrase is NILIF = nothing in life is free.
    Make him "work" for anything he wants/needs.
    You control the food, you open the doors, you allow access to toys,sofas,treats etc.

    Make him do a simple "sit" (and insist on proper execution) before he gets anything and he'll quickly realise that co-operation is the name of the game and that if he doesn't co-operate...he doesn't get what he wants.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭FlowerGarden


    Training has started and he's fast asleep in his own bed for the first time ever :)))


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭FlowerGarden


    Just to post an update a few weeks on. After the great advice I received I banned my furbaby off the sofa and put his bed on the floor beside it. To my amazement after being told no a few times he settled on his bed and went asleep. So I decided to go the whole hog and ban him off the bed as well. Again he accepted his fate and he's been in his own bed since except for the odd time when he's invited up and there's no growling when he has to get down. He wears his lead in the house now so if he gets too excited or starts barking its easier to divert his attention. I think we are both happier now with the new rules! Thanks everyone esp DBB for your help!


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