Unhappy with tradesman

mullinr2

We have a carpenter working on the floors skirting etc. We are happy with his work so far, however we are not happy with the way he is hanging the doors. They are deanta doors and are expensive. The all need planning. At the bottom of the doors he is leaving them very poorly, very straggly and one door there is a small chunk out of it.
How would one approach a tradesman that your not happy with their work?
I've attached photos, just zoom in.

hexosan

You'd approach it by saying hey Mr Carpenter I'm not happy with the way this door is hung can you do it properly.

If you haven't paid him up front for this job that should resolve it.

tabby aspreme

It looks like he's working with blunt tools

mullinr2

tabby aspreme wrote: »

It looks like he's working with blunt tools

I know it looks like that. Its totally unacceptable workmanship. I mean each door cost 155 euro and two glass doors cost 250 each. We can't have him treating them like that. Are either of ye carpenters who replied? It looks like he is rushing them to get finished and move onto the next job.

rampantbunny

I'm not a carpenter but I'd be disgusted if I did a DIY job and left them looking like that.
Is there power on site, because if he was using an electric planner it mustn't have been turned on..or he used the wrong side of it.

The door with the chunk gone out of it...maybe it can be filled/patched, but to me it's destroyed. Hope as Hex says, that you haven't paid up front. Tackle it soon before more work is done (or doors ruined).

Bonzo Delaney

It looks like he used some sort of a crow bar /lever to fit / lift them into position and it kept slipping thus making sh1te of the doors. I know they're a heavy door and when you cut the bottom of them you've to mind the veeneer like a baby cause they will damage easily I generally use wedges on the stile ends to position them in place. Cutting them only a festool rail saw with a the professional sharp blade does the job Imo. If I'd the job of fixing them it'll never be right but not over noticeable is to sand and blend in matched Brummer filler where it's damaged. It takes a good bit of time to get right though. Tell him your not happy obviously it's plain to see why. If they were delivered like that you'd send them back. Hopefully he'd be able to leave them presentable if not run him he's not the experience to work with those doors.

Turner85

What Benzo said, even wooden wedges will cause this on these type of doors. if there is not already a huge gap you could get him to cut off the damage on the lesser damaged door and take better care when re-hanging and just fill the one with the chunk gone.

cork2

This is unacceptable. I notice you have broken the timber floors under the door, sometimes in filling this space with a T section you have to cut a lot off the door as already mentioned by another poster maybe he'll need to cut the doors again. Someone mentioned festool rail saws as the only way to cut them, that's unnecessary as these saws are a luxury and very very few tradesmen posses them or need them. All he needs to do is mark the line he's going to cut all the way round the door and get a straight edge and a new Stanley knife blade and cut the veneer before he cuts the door. He needs a good sharp circular saw blade and put masking tape on the baseplate of the saw so as not mark the finish. Filling, sanding and repairing the lacquer will be slow but it just has to be done and to be quiet honest if he can't cut a door he'll make a balls of it, talk to you painter I know it'd make you sick but maybe getting him to fix them is the way to go, as you said they were expensive.

Bonzo Delaney

cork2 wrote: »

Someone mentioned festool rail saws as the only way to cut them, that's unnecessary as these saws are a luxury and very very few tradesmen posses them or need them. All he needs to do is mark the line he's going to cut all the way round the door and get a straight edge and a new Stanley knife blade and cut the veneer before he cuts the door. He needs a good sharp circular saw blade and put masking tape on the baseplate of the saw so as not mark the finish.

And also don't forget to clamp a level to the door so the saw won't hop either
I used this method with the Stanley and the masking tape for years as that's how I was taught the proper way. Untill about six years ago i was giving a mate a hand second fixing a house. He had the festool rail saw by the time I had the door marked around he had it cut perfect and back up on the frame. Needless to say as soon as I got the money together a rail saw was bought whether I could afford it or not! paid for itself in no time
They might be a luxury and you'd get by without it but for a professional who can put the time saved towards making sure margins an finish are above the clients standards they're as important as the kettle in the van. Most lads I work with kitchen fitters 2nd fixers and joinery shop fitters have them tbh very few at that end of carpentry wouldn't have one. Just my experience with them.