Pocket Door query

thumper10

Hey all,

Looking for recommendations on Pocket doors, our builder told us it could cost about 600euro, at the ideal home show we found out you can purchase the pocket door kit and the door then separately, just got a price of 320 ex vat for singe door, we're looking for about 6 of them (if the price comes down), we're building in Galway would appreciate your advise, experience

TIA

BryanF

Can you put up the detailed drawing your architect prepared for the pocket doors (taking off the arch's name etc)

The reason I ask for the drawing is the last pocket door I was involved with, the builder was back more than once fixing plasterboard/painting/ lining-up surrounding features/ fixing floor/ceiling tracks etc

Saving pennies might cost you pounds, or leave you with troublesome doors in the long run..

DOCARCH

The last one I put in, at clients insistence, client had the builder back 3 months after completion to take out the pocket door and put in a standard door and frame...at a cost!

Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place!

galwaytt

..we did a house in Fermanagh a few years ago for a client - ALL the doors were pocket doors, on both floors. Kinda mad, Ted.

I've seen some in the UK and essentially you were buying a portion of wall c/w the tracks in them already. I think a 'complete' solution is the best, as otherwise buying components alone and getting someone to make the best of them may not work out.

PROJECT K

DOCARCH wrote: »

...
Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place!

I agree that they dont save space and that rooms should be designed with enough tolerance to allow a swinging door(!) but I do believe that sliding doors are very beneficial in open plan areas where a swinging door just gets in the way of free circulation/room layout. I will have two large sliding pocket doors but i know that these will remain open 90% of the time - why have a door leaf sticking out like a sore thumb?!

I had to go with a built up system due to opening size and i am sourcing the commercial rail/support system myself and getting the door made by a local joiner/cabinetry maker who will also fit the entire system - he has done something very similar before and has worked very well with no problems...so far!

rambunctious1

Check out Eclisse for a complete pocket door system, minus the door. Very useful, especially if you have any fire door requirements and they come in single and double systems. The also come with the jambs and brushes to tidy up around the opening. The doors and track etc... can also be removed for maintenance after installation, so you don't have to butcher your walls.
A cheaper option would be to get the track and hangers from pchenderson and have the pockets built. They have lots of complicated systems but basically the Husky kits do the job for straight internal sliding doors. One required for each door leaf, e.g. two required for a double. The Husky 50 does a 50kg door and the Husky 100 does a 100 kg door.
Much cheaper options should be avoided as the rollers aren't great and the doors rattle and shake upon sliding. It's not something you want to go trying to fix again in a few years time.

thumper10

Thanks all for the replies, I've attached 2 screen shots, hope you can them clearly..
looking at it its only 4 we need...got pricing from around €300 ex vat and then one at about €100, excluding door...

BryanF

Are you building under the Irish building regs?, is there steps up to the toilet facilities?

thumper10

there's a downstairs toilet from the backdoor, and yes under the new Irish reg's.

DOCARCH

Not sure I'd be too worried about the pocket doors...I'd be more worried how your staircase is working in relation to floor levels at first floor and ceiling levels at ground floor?

thumper10

DOCARCH wrote: »

Not sure I'd be too worried about the pocket doors...I'd be more worried how your staircase is working in relation to floor levels at first floor and ceiling levels at ground floor?

thanks but engineer has signed all of

sydthebeat

thumper10 wrote: »

thanks but engineer has signed all of

well those stairs as shown dont work in a typical 2 storey dwelling... so i hope theyve looked at redesigning them

beauf

DOCARCH wrote: »

...Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place!

Isn't more about the door just getting in the way.

hexosan

sydthebeat wrote: »

well those stairs as shown dont work in a typical 2 storey dwelling... so i hope theyve looked at redesigning them

Why don't they ?

sydthebeat

hexosan wrote: »

Why don't they ?

Lots of reasons

(assuming the bottom of the drawings is the front)

the floor to floor dimension is 2.7 m

there is 24 steps shown on the ground floor plan, 8 up and 8 returned and 8 back again, meaning theres a 2 half landings located between the 2 floors.
one at 0.9 m high and the other at 1.8 m high
2 half landings mean that the WC door and hallway to it is compromised.
quite possibly the door to bedroom 1 is also compromised.

you also couldnt possibly walk up steps 1 - 6 without crouching down to get under steps 17 - 24

so lest assume steps 7 - 24 are either a mistake or the start of another stairs to a second floor. How do you get into bedroom 4?
if its just a 16 step floor to floor stair, you cannot walk back over the first 8 steps, the most you can cover is 3-4 steps.


its all wrong and needs to be looked at again.

DOCARCH

thumper10 wrote: »

thanks but engineer has signed all of

Your engineer 'signed off'! Who designed it?

It does not work (for the reasons Syd has said above). You will have to bend down to get into your WC and there will be no access to the landing to the rear...the only accessible Bedroom upstairs will be Bedroom 4.

Get whoever designed it to do a section through the staircase looking towards the WC/Bedroom 4 side.

thumper10

sydthebeat wrote: »

Lots of reasons

(assuming the bottom of the drawings is the front)

the floor to floor dimension is 2.7 m

there is 24 steps shown on the ground floor plan, 8 up and 8 returned and 8 back again, meaning theres a 2 half landings located between the 2 floors.
one at 0.9 m high and the other at 1.8 m high
2 half landings mean that the WC door and hallway to it is compromised.
quite possibly the door to bedroom 1 is also compromised.

you also couldnt possibly walk up steps 1 - 6 without crouching down to get under steps 17 - 24

so lest assume steps 7 - 24 are either a mistake or the start of another stairs to a second floor. How do you get into bedroom 4?
if its just a 16 step floor to floor stair, you cannot walk back over the first 8 steps, the most you can cover is 3-4 steps.


its all wrong and needs to be looked at again.

Ok hold on, its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks

DOCARCH

thumper10 wrote: »

Ok hold on, its a split level house...

OooooKkkkkk....2+2 = 5 it would appear!

Let's just get back on topic and leave that to one side! :P

sydthebeat

thumper10 wrote: »

Ok hold on, its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks

thats grand, i did say in my very first post "assuming its a standard 2 storey house"

JimmyMW

thumper10 wrote: »

Ok hold on, its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks

Just before you leave that there, I believe that you have a look at the the levels again. Assuming the following ground floor level is @+8m od and front door mezzanine level is @ +10m od, then first floor level is @ +11.400m od and top mezzanine level is @ 12.700m od, the figures are a bit fuzzy but I think I have them as per drawing there.

On the floor levels you have a floor to floor height of 3.4m which is more than adequate however on the mezzanine levels you only have a floor to floor of 2.7m, I think this will cause you a problem as you only have 300mm to get your concrete floor construction and false ceiling into, in order to achieve your min floor to ceiling measurement of 2.4m.

Maybe I am getting it wrong but it may warrant another look