Question for the Knife Officianados

FISMA

For the knife officianados, what do you recommend to sharpen and get the correct angle back on a knife: hand or electric, stone or tool?

Also, what is the preferred/suggested angle for the field, that is hunting knifes (gut hook and fine detail/caping) and for butchering, with boning knives and such?

Usually, I sharpen with a steel or ceramic rod, as I can "hear" the correct angle more easily than with a stone.

However, there are other sharpening options: power tools, electric stations, hand-tools, pull-throughs, and more.

I was looking at this electric station which allows you to vary for the angle of the blade being sharpened. Is it worth almost $200? Or would this pull through be just as good?

Thanks for any help. Just wondering if this is one of those areas where you can spend a lot of money, but do not need to or whether spending a little now, helps a lot later.

Hunterjohnb

Electric wet stone sharpeners(Tormek type) are on the expensive side.Stone lasts for years and one machine does a myriad of different edged tools from knives to axes.

yubabill1

Most knives come with double taper from the factory.

That's why you might think they never perform as well once re-sharpened.

An old article, I know (this was how we did things before Youtube).

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=91976650&postcount=1

clivej

FISMA wrote: »

For the knife officianados, what do you recommend to sharpen and get the correct angle back on a knife: hand or electric, stone or tool?

Also, what is the preferred/suggested angle for the field, that is hunting knifes (gut hook and fine detail/caping) and for butchering, with boning knives and such?

Usually, I sharpen with a steel or ceramic rod, as I can "hear" the correct angle more easily than with a stone.

However, there are other sharpening options: power tools, electric stations, hand-tools, pull-throughs, and more.

I was looking at this electric station which allows you to vary for the angle of the blade being sharpened. Is it worth almost $200? Or would this pull through be just as good?

Thanks for any help. Just wondering if this is one of those areas where you can spend a lot of money, but do not need to or whether spending a little now, helps a lot later.

I can NEVER seem to get my hunting knifes sharp. They come up OK but not like when shop bought new. I have a 2 sided stone and steel. The last thing a got was the Diamond Sharpening Stone Hone Block that does a good a job as I can do.



But after reading that guide I'll get the Razor edge Guide and see if that will help me. From Razor Edge Systems
https://www.razoredgesystems.com/guides/guides/cub-guide-for-blades-3-1-2-and-shorter

Rosahane

If you buy a knife with a Scandi gring such as a Helle or Mora you can use the grind as a guide while sharpening on a water stone or diamond block.

Otherwise, unless you have the skills and the patience to learn you need a sharpening system that maintains a consistent stone to blade angle.

Systems like the Lansky or DMT Diafold work pretty well and aren't too expensive.

There are more expensive, and more effective systems such as the Edge Pro which will consistently produce razor sharp edges.

Here is a excellent thread by Deise Musashi which explains everything.
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=72714711

cookimonster

For hunting and general use I use a Mora and a few other blades with a similar grind. I keep the edge keen by using very fine sand paper on a cork block. This keeps a mirror finish, and I finish the edge by pulling it trough the cork block.
Don't let the blades dull or the process gets more complicated and time consuming. I'll touch up after each days use in the field.
But if I'm butchering meat or prepareing food I'll use a steel regularly to maintain the edges, again the trick is never to allow blades to dull so regular work on the block is required. My professional knives all have single taper edges which are very sharp and easily maintained. The angle of the tapers vary depending on use- cleaving, chopping and slicing. From my own profession I find many individuals allow the blade to go too far before trying to address it.

Grizzly 45

Bought a Spyderco ceramic stick sharpner set.They are pricey,but with a bit of practise ,they are the easiest and simplest sharpening system I've ever used.No oils ,clamps and other messing about.

clivej

I'm liking the look of that DMT system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMcB8977oKA

Click the image below

Rosahane

clivej wrote: »

I'm liking the look of that DMT system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMcB8977oKA

Click the image below

I find the DMT better than the Lansky but not nearly as good as the Edge Pro!

The only downside is that the clamp system is awkward with larger blades. For shorter hunting knives and EDC its fine. Not great for your butcher knives.

clivej

Well I've sent off for the DMT set. ;)
That's about as much as I'll spend on a sharpening system. So hopefully it will keep my hunting & house hold knifes in tip top condition.

Rosahane

clivej wrote: »

Well I've sent off for the DMT set. ;)
That's about as much as I'll spend on a sharpening system. So hopefully it will keep my hunting & house hold knifes in tip top condition.

Have a look at the videos that are online.

Use a whiteboard market to mark the edge and help you keep it even.

The downside of the DMT and Lansky is that the angles are fixed, and not infinitely variable like the Edge Pro so you may have a lot of honing to do initially if the bevel on your knife doesn't match the preset angles. But, once you have it ground it's pretty easy to keep it right.
Enjoy!

softpoint

I swear by the Falkraven DC 4 works better than any Lansky for me.

softpoint

You don't need a guiding system when sharpening a knife with a blade that only one angle like a Moira Clipper. You cant get the angle wrong. 2 min and a blunt knife is transformed to a razor.

clivej

softpoint wrote: »

You don't need a guiding system when sharpening a knife with a blade that only one angle like a Moira Clipper. You cant get the angle wrong. 2 min and a blunt knife is transformed to a razor.

Can you please explain that more. My Clipper has a double edge AFAIK.

softpoint

clivej wrote: »

Can you please explain that more. My Clipper has a double edge AFAIK.

Have at least 4 with a single edge (no bevel I think is the term). Rest the knife on the stone pressing down so that the blade is in full contact with the stone. Swirl in a circular motion or use long swipes. Alternate sides. You cant go wrong. The DC4 is the best I have used and its so light and compact it can be brought n your pack.

I stuggled with sharpening Buck knives for years.

ezra_

I'm looking to get a steer on how to properly use the whetstone and honing steel that I have?

When the knives I had were sharpened originally, the honing steel was ok to keep the edge in line but I've made a total hash of the resharpening.

Is anyone about the Dublin / West Wicklow / Wexford area who can show me what I should be doing? Will stand ya a pint!

yubabill1

ezra_ wrote: »

I'm looking to get a steer on how to properly use the whetstone and honing steel that I have?

When the knives I had were sharpened originally, the honing steel was ok to keep the edge in line but I've made a total hash of the resharpening.

Is anyone about the Dublin / West Wicklow / Wexford area who can show me what I should be doing? Will stand ya a pint!

Ahem (Cough).

ezra_

yubabill1 wrote: »

Ahem (Cough).

I'm doing something wrong. I get the theory, but I'm making a hash of the sharpening. Just wearing down the blade at this stage

clawback07

ezra_ wrote: »

I'm doing something wrong. I get the theory, but I'm making a hash of the sharpening. Just wearing down the blade at this stage

Years ago I bought a lansky sharpening system - I know there's oil and clamps involved but your blade is clamped and the stones are honing at a constant angle which goes a hell of a long way to getting a sharp edge on your blade . Also it has an extra coarse stone which will grind down a blade with a knackered edge so you can hone from extra coarse through coarse to medium then to fine and or extra fine ! I have been able to save quite a few blades from the bin with this system .