Solterra Heat Pump - looking for guides

SeaBreezes

Hello, i have a solterra geothermal heat pump installed with about 5 years now. This summer the external box that holds the antifreeze liquid that pumps externally had to be replaced (it was cracked) when replaced, I asked the plumber to ensure it was not airlocked and was assured it was fine. Last week, my internal water tank leaked and has no be replaced (its out of warrenty) so currently the upstairs water is turned off. I have rads upstairs and underfloor downstairs. I thought the downstairs heating system was completely separate and noticed yesterday that even though the heating had been on since 3pm all day non stop the house is freezing. Looking at the outside pump, when the heating is turned on (just the downstairs underfloor heating) the lights that are lit up on the box are HP cut out, LP cut out, compressor flow, and the temp gauge says 13. So, what do these mean? Is this correct? Should my downstairs system work independently of my upstairs tank system? And is there a guide book I can download that would explain to me the simple things I can check as to why my floors are not heating? Dunstar originally installed the system and of course are gone now. Any advice would be very much appreciated before I pay ANOTHER 100 euro call out charge for something I could possibly check myself. Thanks folks. Driving me nuts that the money Im pouring into the electrics is being wasted.

SeaBreezes

SeaBreezes wrote: »

Hello, i have a solterra geothermal heat pump installed with about 5 years now. This summer the external box that holds the antifreeze liquid that pumps externally had to be replaced (it was cracked) when replaced, I asked the plumber to ensure it was not airlocked and was assured it was fine. Last week, my internal water tank leaked and has no be replaced (its out of warrenty) so currently the upstairs water is turned off. I have rads upstairs and underfloor downstairs. I thought the downstairs heating system was completely separate and noticed yesterday that even though the heating had been on since 3pm all day non stop the house is freezing. Looking at the outside pump, when the heating is turned on (just the downstairs underfloor heating) the lights that are lit up on the box are HP cut out, LP cut out, compressor flow, and the temp gauge says 13. So, what do these mean? Is this correct? Should my downstairs system work independently of my upstairs tank system? And is there a guide book I can download that would explain to me the simple things I can check as to why my floors are not heating? Dunstar originally installed the system and of course are gone now. Any advice would be very much appreciated before I pay ANOTHER 100 euro call out charge for something I could possibly check myself. Thanks folks. Driving me nuts that the money Im pouring into the electrics is being wasted.

Anyone?

Condenser

SeaBreezes wrote: »

Hello, i have a solterra geothermal heat pump installed with about 5 years now. This summer the external box that holds the antifreeze liquid that pumps externally had to be replaced (it was cracked) when replaced, I asked the plumber to ensure it was not airlocked and was assured it was fine. Last week, my internal water tank leaked and has no be replaced (its out of warrenty) so currently the upstairs water is turned off. I have rads upstairs and underfloor downstairs. I thought the downstairs heating system was completely separate and noticed yesterday that even though the heating had been on since 3pm all day non stop the house is freezing. Looking at the outside pump, when the heating is turned on (just the downstairs underfloor heating) the lights that are lit up on the box are HP cut out, LP cut out, compressor flow, and the temp gauge says 13. So, what do these mean? Is this correct? Should my downstairs system work independently of my upstairs tank system? And is there a guide book I can download that would explain to me the simple things I can check as to why my floors are not heating? Dunstar originally installed the system and of course are gone now. Any advice would be very much appreciated before I pay ANOTHER 100 euro call out charge for something I could possibly check myself. Thanks folks. Driving me nuts that the money Im pouring into the electrics is being wasted.

You can't get a HP and LP fault at the same time so there's something odd there. Its possible that air got into the system due to the leak and caused an air lock or that a valve was turned off and the remaining flow rate isn't sufficient to remove the heat being produced. This would result in a high pressure fault (HP fault) but not an LP fault also.
An LP fault is caused due to low/no brine flow or a low refrigerant level.
Calling out someone who doesn't deal with heat pumps on a daily basis is a waste of time as your average plumber won't have a clue what's going on with the refrigeration side of the system. I doubt its a refrigeration problem (more likely a hydraulic problem causing a refrigeration fault) but if it is you'll need a refrigeration engineer with F-Gas cert to work on it. If they don't have that don't even bother calling them out.