refurbish old Road bike

greenspurs

i have my old Racing bike at home, that i raced in the mid 80's.
Im planning on refurbishing it and get it back on its 2 wheels again.
Its a raleigh similar to the one in the pic.
Is it worth changing the Groupset? It will need a new chainset (teeth are knackered) and there is Modolo (?) Groupset on it at the moment.
Also the wheels, i would like to keep the original wheels, But as far as i can see the Hub is knacked also as the Cassette is rotating .. Would that be a correct assumption ?
I would appreciate any help/info from anyone...
Thanks in advance......

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

i have my old Racing bike at home, that i raced in the mid 80's.
Im planning on refurbishing it and get it back on its 2 wheels again.
Its a raleigh similar to the one in the pic.
Is it worth changing the Groupset? It will need a new chainset (teeth are knackered) and there is Modolo (?) Groupset on it at the moment.
Also the wheels, i would like to keep the original wheels, But as far as i can see the Hub is knacked also as the Cassette is rotating .. Would that be a correct assumption ?
I would appreciate any help/info from anyone...
Thanks in advance......

If the existing groupset is working, there is no need to change it. Alternatively just replace / refurbish the elements as required.
The crankset do not need to be replaced, just change the chainrings if they are worn. I would also replace the chain and the freewheel / cassette.

Do you mean that the cassette is rotating in both direction and not engaging?

I would start with stripping all components to bare frame and then rebuilding the bike while examining each part and deciding what to do with them, i.e. - refurbish or replace.

Good Luck with the project, it is very rewarding.

greenspurs

Thanks Seweryn.

yes.. good idea about the chain ring
Yes the hub is rotating both directions, not engaging to drive forward (slipping).

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

Yes the hub is rotating both directions, not engaging to drive forward (slipping).

I believe you have the traditional thread-on freewheel. The ratchet mechanism is quite likely built into the freewheel cluster. You still need to replace the sprockets, so when you do, that should solve the problem. You only have to make sure you get the compatible unit.

More info here .

greenspurs

Jeepers .......
that sounds complicated !

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

Jeepers .......
that sounds complicated !

It does at first, but once you strip the bike apart, it will be much easier from there .

Type 17

If the front chainrings are knackered, then the chain and rear sprockets will need to be replaced anyway.

For the record, if the bike hasn't been ridden for a few years, the grease/oil in the freewheel will have dried up and solidified, holding the pawls in (pawls = the bits that tick when freewheeling, and engage when pedalling). A stuck freewheel or freehub can be repaired by disassembling and cleaning, and then greasing the bearings and oiling the pawls. However, with the price of freewheels now, it's probably not worth doing unless it's a high-end model that you can get replacement sprockets for (which are rare and expensive these days), or has a rare and unusual hub-thread.

greenspurs

do you reckon i could swap a new wheel with a 6 speed cassette onto it ?
the gear levers are on the downtube ...

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

do you reckon i could swap a new wheel with a 6 speed cassette onto it ?
the gear levers are on the downtube ...

What do you mean by new wheel? A new wheel that you buy off the shelf?
You need a wheel with 126mm rear hub spacing. This is important as anything from, say, late '80s is 130mm.

greenspurs

new as in modern, off my winter bike..
god i thought i knew stuff about stuff ! :O

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

new as in modern, off my winter bike..
god i thought i knew stuff about stuff ! :O

Well, there are two rear hub spacing widths for road bikes, as per my earlier post. Anything new-ish, will not fit, as it will be 130mm rather than 126mm. What wheels do you have in the other bike and what hub/cassette is on it?

greenspurs

just stripped her . Took the cassette off the rear wheel, and the grooves the hole the cassette on seem to be ok.
i think its just the inner Spindle ? of the cassette is just spinning in both directions, therefore not allowing the forward movement..
So just a new cassette so far ...
and new chain , cables , tyres , bar tape, and a LOT of wd40 !!

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

So just a new cassette so far ...
and new chain , cables , tyres , bar tape, and a LOT of wd40 !!

... and the chainrings?

Also, make sure to check the bottom bracket, wheel bearings and the headset bearings.

cdaly_

A steel frame will probably stretch to accommodate a 130mm hub but you'll likely now have a 700c wheel instead of a 27" and will therefore need to replace tyre and tube assuming that the brake calipers can cope with the different wheel size.

Assuming the 'cassette' is actually a freewheel, try the following:

1. Re-fit the freewheel to the hub, no need to screw it tight.
2. Re-fit the wheel to the frame with the chain laced over the freewheel.
3. Spin the wheel forwards.
4. While the wheel spins, liberally spray WD40 into the joint between where the sprockets are stationary and the hub is rotating.
5. Keep spinning and spraying for a couple of minutes. Dirty, rusty WD40 should start to come out the bottom and the freewheel will likely start working again.
6. If it does, keep spinning and start dripping light oil into the same joint.
7. Repeat the following day.

tonytiger81

Your bike is probably older but I 'updated' a '92 Peugeot Optimum 14spd last year. A pair of CXP22 went on perfectly. Word of advice is don't let the budget get out of hand!

greenspurs

Seweryn wrote: »

... and the chainrings?

Also, make sure to check the bottom bracket, wheel bearings and the headset bearings.

yes, New chainrings also .. 52 and 42 ... How did we manage with 'just' 12 gears !!

My bike is a Peugeot Super Vitus Savoie. 86-87? id say.
Thanks for all the help guys, its invaluable.

greenspurs

cdaly_ wrote: »

A steel frame will probably stretch to accommodate a 130mm hub but you'll likely now have a 700c wheel instead of a 27" and will therefore need to replace tyre and tube assuming that the brake calipers can cope with the different wheel size.

Assuming the 'cassette' is actually a freewheel, try the following:

1. Re-fit the freewheel to the hub, no need to screw it tight.
2. Re-fit the wheel to the frame with the chain laced over the freewheel.
3. Spin the wheel forwards.
4. While the wheel spins, liberally spray WD40 into the joint between where the sprockets are stationary and the hub is rotating.
5. Keep spinning and spraying for a couple of minutes. Dirty, rusty WD40 should start to come out the bottom and the freewheel will likely start working again.
6. If it does, keep spinning and start dripping light oil into the same joint.
7. Repeat the following day.

yes its a freewheel . The cassette was held onto the hub/spindle by a ring that you tighten. I removed the cassette and the hub? on the inside of the cassette spins freely in both directions..

ford2600

greenspurs wrote: »

yes, New chainrings also .. 52 and 42 ... How did we manage with 'just' 12 gears !!

My bike is a Peugeot Super Vitus Savoie. 86-87? id say.
Thanks for all the help guys, its invaluable.

Try lfgss.co.uk classified for parts and eBay

greenspurs

ford2600 wrote: »

Try lfgss.co.uk classified for parts and eBay

Coming up as Page not Available ?

ford2600

greenspurs wrote: »

Coming up as Page not Available ?

https://www.lfgss.com/microcosms/549/

tonytiger81

type in as a google search: london fixed gear and single speed.

greenspurs

ford2600 wrote: »

https://www.lfgss.com/microcosms/549/

ahh yes , that link works , ta

Seweryn

ford2600 wrote: »

https://www.lfgss.com/microcosms/549/

Great suggestion there.

Here is another good one where I have sourced a NOS hub for my wheelset project.

greenspurs

Frame stripped... Trouble getting off the crank though.. Should they be forced off?
I think the cassette is knackered, I soaked it in wd40 as was recomended.. It was spinning OK, but the when I put it back on the spindle on the wheel, it started to skip when I tried to put pressure on the cassette as if I was pedalling.. So I think I need to find as new cassette .
Also when I tried to open the but to remove the handlebars and headset, the but for the alonn key is shearedand I can't loosen it !!??!! Any help........

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

Frame stripped... Trouble getting off the crank though.. Should they be forced off?

No, you need a crank extractor tool to remove your cranks.

greenspurs wrote: »

Also when I tried to open the but to remove the handlebars and headset, the but for the alonn key is shearedand I can't loosen it !!??!! Any help........

Can you turn that bolt to loosen it?

greenspurs

Seweryn wrote: »

No, you need a crank extractor tool to remove your cranks.


Can you turn that bolt to loosen it?

Crank extractor tool ??? Maybe a big hammer !! :-)
Nope, I must have sheared the yoke years ago ! :-(

Type 17

LBS will have a crank extractor tool - trying any other method of removal will damage the cranks.

You could try hammering a large Torx bit (T50-ish) into the rounded-out 6mm Allen bolt. Best to get a another bolt (or another stem) afterwards, though.

greenspurs

You could try hammering a large Torx bit (T50-ish) into the rounded-out 6mm Allen bolt. Best to get a another bolt (or another stem) afterwards, though.[/QUOTE]

yes.. its fecked. Its gonna be a tricky job to get it out.

theres a lot of research being done,
New wheels? if i cant get the freewheel hub, changed to the modern style Cassette, ...
New Chainset? or new chain rings?
trying to keep the downtube shifters, so have to find brake levers that are compatible, and that depends on if i can/have to keep the old rear deraileur!
Jeepers...... so many decisions !
So, thanks again guys for yere imput, it is very helpful.

greenspurs

1475897_1022994701050660_7168572739586081178_n.jpg

10933787_1022995177717279_4025451281282354026_n.jpg

savoie.jpg

Type 17

A bath of WD-40 would do wonders for a lot of those components - you can buy a 5 litre container for about €30 in most motor factors...

Seweryn

Type 17 wrote: »

A bath of WD-40 would do wonders for a lot of those components - you can buy a 5 litre container for about €30 in most motor factors...

Or just use diesel fuel or kerosene, that would be cheaper.

cdaly_

greenspurs wrote: »

do you reckon i could swap a new wheel with a 6 speed cassette onto it ?

It's possible that the existing wheel will accommodate a 6 speed freewheel without needing a new hub.

Type 17

Seweryn wrote: »

Or just use diesel fuel or kerosene, that would be cheaper.

Yes, but WD-40 smell so much nicer

Seweryn

Type 17 wrote: »

Yes, but WD-40 smell so much nicer

Oh yes, vanilla ice cream kinda smell .

Type 17

To me, it's the smell of US bike stores...

blamester

Thats a pretty decent bike.
Your wheels are fine they are 700c so no need to change them or the brakes.What hubs are on the bike?
The shifters and derailleurs will work fine too.
You need to find out if you have a cassette or a freewheel. You may have a cassette and if you are very lucky some of the freehubs from that time are both uniglide and hyperglide compatible. If it isn't a freehub type then you can always change the freewheel to a modern ramped freewheel. They are cheap.
You don't need five gallons of wd 40. Remove the wheel and spray the freewheel/freehub with wd 40. You need to get in behind where the spokes are and in front where the axle is. Spray and spin ,it should come fine. I bet if you really wanted you could lube the chain buy cheap tyres and it would ride fine.
That bike can quite easily be made to ride like a new bike. You will need tyres (are the wheels clincher or tubular) brake cables, bar tape, brake pads , grease and a few tools.
I have a bike quite similar and it is as good as any modern bike for a non racer.

blamester

Bye the way from the pictures those wheels look like they are tubular. So before you go make descisions you need to clarify this first. I assume you would want normal tyres (clinchers) and therefore you would need new wheels which would actually make a lot of you problems go away.

blamester

Bye the way from the pictures those wheels look like they are tubular. So before you go make descisions you need to clarify this first. I assume you would want normal tyres (clinchers) and therefore you would need new wheels which would actually make a lot of you problems go away. You could then use whatever cassette you wanted at 7/8/9 or even 10 speed.
I found 8 speed was probably the best with fricion shifters and an 8 speed chain should work nicely with your chainrings which by the way are probably fine and don't need changing.
How much is a 105 groupset?

blamester

Bye the way from the pictures those wheels look like they are tubular. So before you go make descisions you need to clarify this first. I assume you would want normal tyres (clinchers) and therefore you would need new wheels which would actually make a lot of you problems go away. You could then use whatever cassette you wanted at 7/8/9 or even 10 speed.
I found 8 speed was probably the best with fricion shifters and an 8 speed chain should work nicely with your chainrings which by the way are probably fine and don't need changing.
How much is a 105 groupset?
A big issue with those older steel bike is the seatpost getting stuck. If it is it usually means a good few hours and a hacksaw blade.

greenspurs

blamester wrote: »

Bye the way from the pictures those wheels look like they are tubular. So before you go make descisions you need to clarify this first. I assume you would want normal tyres (clinchers) and therefore you would need new wheels which would actually make a lot of you problems go away. You could then use whatever cassette you wanted at 7/8/9 or even 10 speed.
I found 8 speed was probably the best with fricion shifters and an 8 speed chain should work nicely with your chainrings which by the way are probably fine and don't need changing.
How much is a 105 groupset?
A big issue with those older steel bike is the seatpost getting stuck. If it is it usually means a good few hours and a hacksaw blade.

Thanks for the imput..
The wheels are clinchers. They are in good nick.
the hubs are very ordinary (maillard sachs? i think) i have wd40'd the crap outta them...
The Wheel setup is a Thread on freewheel and hub. The 'cassette' (6speed) is knackered. I had the wheel in my LBS for him to take a look. He 'thinks' i could get a new 6/7 speed cassette on the wheel... Myself , I dont think there is room on the spindle for a bigger cassette...
I would prefer a better choice of gear ratio, as it is a 12-26 cassette, and i need a better range...
I need to replace both chainring (52 + 42) ..
Rear deraileur seems ok, i have taken it apart and given it a good cleaning, spring is very good.
The downtube gear shifters are another problem then.... If i change gearing on back wheel, i will then have to change shifters?
I will change the brakes. Will have to get new levers then also.

Its frustrating so far. As i feel i cant change / do anything until i get the Wheel/gears problem sorted .....

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

I would prefer a better choice of gear ratio, as it is a 12-26 cassette, and i need a better range...
I need to replace both chainring (52 + 42) ...

What do you mean by better gear ratio? Wider, lower, higher? You can change the front chainrings with say, 38/52T or go lower at the high end, i.e. 48 or 50T.

greenspurs

Seweryn wrote: »

What do you mean by better gear ratio? Wider, lower, higher? You can change the front chainrings with say, 38/52T or go lower at the high end, i.e. 48 or 50T.

I am a 'spinner' so would prefer low gears for climbing ... but yes that is a good solution , if i could get a 36/38 on the inside ring....
so many permutations.....
i feel if i could get the gearing/wheel sorted i could move on.
i can get new Shimano Tiagra brakes+levers+chainset for €120
Plus new Shimano SPD pedals for €30 ......

Seweryn

greenspurs wrote: »

I am a 'spinner' so would prefer low gears for climbing ... but yes that is a good solution , if i could get a 36/38 on the inside ring....

I believe the BCD is 130mm on the crankset, so 38T would be the smallest you can put on the inner side.

greenspurs

Seweryn wrote: »

I believe the BCD is 130mm on the crankset, so 38T would be the smallest you can put on the inner side.

That would be ok...
I just tried the wheel off my 'good' bike onto the Peugeot ........
and it fits !!
could i get a 'modern' cassette put onto the 'old' wheels? hmmmmm ..
another permutation!! :rolleyes:

blamester

I think you are making this more complicated than it need be.
Get a new freewheel and chain , grease the hubs , bb and headset.
Change the cables and brake pads.
Install new tyres.
Give the bike a good cleaning and your away.
If you want a bike with tiagra there is any amount of them on adverts cheap so why not leave this one original.
That was a good quality bike back when it was new and it still is with a little work.

greenspurs

I know i am making it more complicated than it is, because i havent done anything like this before, so thats why i wanna make sure i do the best i can on it (without spending crazy money on it)

cdaly_

First, treat this as an on-going project rather than trying to rush it.

For the hubs (and bottom bracket), having wd40'd the crap out of them, you'll need to strip, clean and re-grease those bearings.

With a quick-release axle, there may be less opportunity to mess around but with a solid axle, it is possible to add a washer or extra locknut to accommodate a wider freewheel.