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Copper cylinder fitting question

  • 02-01-2015 10:32pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭


    Hi All,

    Quick question, I've to move a copper cylinder as will be getting some renovations done.

    In the new location it looks like everything will line up, except the hot water outlet from the top (see attached). Ideally I need to rotate it about 125 degrees ccw. Would I be best to unthread the right angle fitting and re seal it at the correct angle ? I assume flax and some sort of sealant is used on these.

    Am I likely to damage the cylinder rotating this fitting? Cause I could work around the issue and leave it where it is.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    99% of the time removing top elbow and re sealing before re-asembley for new direction, should be ok.

    It's the connections on the coil that cause more problems( side of cyl )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Yep as above, can be quite tight tho


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 Mr ratbag


    should move handy enough use a bit of heat so that you don't stress it
    flax & boss white or ptfe to reseal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Thanks guys. I was just looking at the new location and I think it will work the way it is. I'll just bring the outlet/expansion up the RHS of the cylinder.

    Thanks again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Mr ratbag wrote: »
    should move handy enough use a bit of heat so that you don't stress it
    flax & boss white or ptfe to reseal

    Flax & boss white only in my experence.

    Not enough scope with ptfe for angle fittings.( white plumbers tape)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Flax & boss white only in my experence.

    Not enough scope with ptfe for angle fittings.( white plumbers tape)

    Can't bate it. I rarely use anything else


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Actually one other quick one, in a pressurised system I always thought the expansion vessel should be on the feed from the boiler and the filling loop on the return.

    Just this evening when I was looking at it I noticed that the filling loop and the expansion vessel are both on the hot feed from the boiler.

    I'm guessing as you normally only top it up when the system is cold/off it's not major. But thinking I should sort that out too when moving it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Actually one other quick one, in a pressurised system I always thought the expansion vessel should be on the feed from the boiler and the filling loop on the return.

    Just this evening when I was looking at it I noticed that the filling loop and the expansion vessel are both on the hot feed from the boiler.

    I'm guessing as you normally only top it up when the system is cold/off it's not major. But thinking I should sort that out too when moving it.

    It don't matter a ****e in pressurized


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Actually one other quick one, in a pressurised system I always thought the expansion vessel should be on the feed from the boiler and the filling loop on the return.

    Just this evening when I was looking at it I noticed that the filling loop and the expansion vessel are both on the hot feed from the boiler.

    I'm guessing as you normally only top it up when the system is cold/off it's not major. But thinking I should sort that out too when moving it.

    Not the end of the World.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Actually one other quick one, in a pressurised system I always thought the expansion vessel should be on the feed from the boiler and the filling loop on the return.

    Just this evening when I was looking at it I noticed that the filling loop and the expansion vessel are both on the hot feed from the boiler.

    I'm guessing as you normally only top it up when the system is cold/off it's not major. But thinking I should sort that out too when moving it.

    Ideally on the return as it's slightly cooler but as scudo said, not the end of the world


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 Mr ratbag


    corkgsxr wrote: »
    Can't bate it. I rarely use anything else

    have you tried loctite 55 , i've been using it for about a year now after seeing it at phex last year, much quicker than tape and better than flax, used it on all types of joints inc old gb , never let me down, i think they'll send you a free trial roll if you look on there website


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Mr ratbag wrote: »
    have you tried loctite 55 , i've been using it for about a year now after seeing it at phex last year, much quicker than tape and better than flax, used it on all types of joints inc old gb , never let me down, i think they'll send you a free trial roll if you look on there website

    Loctite glue
    Hate trying to take it apart afterwards.
    You need 50" stilsons !!!

    Hate having to replace auto air vents on GRANT Boilers ( factory fitted ) on the 318 return.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Mr ratbag wrote: »
    have you tried loctite 55 , i've been using it for about a year now after seeing it at phex last year, much quicker than tape and better than flax, used it on all types of joints inc old gb , never let me down, i think they'll send you a free trial roll if you look on there website

    I don't think I've ever seen flax leak


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 48 donedl1


    Avoid using hemp or flax on water systems and make sure that the paste is for potable water.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    donedl1 wrote: »
    Avoid using hemp or flax on water systems and make sure that the paste is for potable water.

    WHY NO HEMP ?

    I understand the potable water paste part.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    donedl1 wrote: »
    Avoid using hemp or flax on water systems and make sure that the paste is for potable water.

    Why not use flax?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Mr ratbag wrote: »
    have you tried loctite 55 , i've been using it for about a year now after seeing it at phex last year, much quicker than tape and better than flax, used it on all types of joints inc old gb , never let me down, i think they'll send you a free trial roll if you look on there website

    Yep I have it. I prefer flax on threads

    But it's super for likes of swivel fittings


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