206 1.4hdi revs stuck now not starting

fergus1001

206 1.4hdi revs stuck now not starting after I washed the car (but that might be a red hering)

Was driving home from it then the revs dropped to about 1100 and wouldn't budge then I limped the car home where I left it running for a while and it returned to normal so I turned off the car and went away

That evening I went off in the car and it happened again so I put my foot to the top of the throttle position sensor and it went to normal again (could be another red herring) then I continued and after another 5 minutes and the stop light came on with the revs going down so I pulled in and I stopped the car and now it won't start

I had to be towed home

Any help appreciated I'm getting it scanned on Monday just to see but I am baffled

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

206 1.4hdi revs stuck now not starting after I washed the car (but that might be a red hering)

Was driving home from it then the revs dropped to about 1100 and wouldn't budge then I limped the car home where I left it running for a while and it returned to normal so I turned off the car and went away

That evening I went off in the car and it happened again so I put my foot to the top of the throttle position sensor and it went to normal again (could be another red herring) then I continued and after another 5 minutes and the stop light came on with the revs going down so I pulled in and I stopped the car and now it won't start

I had to be towed home

Any help appreciated I'm getting it scanned on Monday just to see but I am baffled

It's not the imobiliser because the key is recognised (beeping when door opened)

Engine is turning over but no smoke (fuel in the rails)

Row

Tbh it could be anything from a crankshaft sensor to the accelerator pedal.....
The only way forward is to get it plugged in to dealer level diagnostics and see what faults are logged.
Post up the fault codes if you get it scanned...

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Tbh it could be anything from a crankshaft sensor to the accelerator pedal.....
The only way forward is to get it plugged in to dealer level diagnostics and see what faults are logged.
Post up the fault codes if you get it scanned...

Yeah I'm going to have someone call out tomorrow to have it looked at ill post back here when I get the results going to move as fast as I can to get it going for the Xmas

fergus1001

Ecu is dead that's the problem obviously water got into it when I was washing it

New the ecu
the key
and bsi

Am I right ?

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Ecu is dead that's the problem obviously water got into it when I was washing it

New the ecu
the key
and bsi

Am I right ?

Did you power wash the engine..?
Check fuses first and if the engine is fried then you will need an engine ecu/Bsi/Key fob all from a doner 206/year/etc.
Also ask for the vin number wherever you get the bsi kit from..

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Did you power wash the engine..?
Check fuses first and if the engine is fried then you will need an engine ecu/Bsi/Key fob all from a doner 206/year/etc.
Also ask for the vin number wherever you get the bsi kit from..

Oh believe me I checked the fuses before I spent 150 on a new ecu/bsi

I have the vin

I have all that now and installed

Will I have to get to a peugeot dealer to enable the extras on my car plus the radio

Like I have fog lights they dont work, auto lights do not work, auto wipers ect

And thanks again row for the help your a savior

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Oh believe me I checked the fuses before I spent 150 on a new ecu/bsi

I have the vin

I have all that now and installed

Will I have to get to a peugeot dealer to enable the extras on my car plus the radio

Like I have fog lights they dont work, auto lights do not work, auto wipers ect

And thanks again row for the help your a savior

No Problem....If you got the same bsi etc with the same numbers etc then it should only be a matter of re-configuring the bsi to get the fogs/auto wipers working.
If you know someone with peugeot planet/diagbox then they should be able to reconfigure it for you..:)

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

No Problem....If you got the same bsi etc with the same numbers etc then it should only be a matter of re-configuring the bsi to get the fogs/auto wipers working.
If you know someone with peugeot planet/diagbox then they should be able to reconfigure it for you..:)

I can't find anyone with it but I seen a delphi diagnostic kit on adverts for 80 euro (it can do the reprogramming ect) would it be worth my while buying it,

I'm also having a problem since the bsi change the temp gauge is flying into the red straight away as if I have wires crossed, I disconnected the temp sensor just to narrow my search Could I have but some harness on the bsi in the wrong placentre without blowing it out ?

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

I can't find anyone with it but I seen a delphi diagnostic kit on adverts for 80 euro (it can do the reprogramming ect) would it be worth my while buying it,

I'm also having a problem since the bsi change the temp gauge is flying into the red straight away as if I have wires crossed, I disconnected the temp sensor just to narrow my search Could I have but some harness on the bsi in the wrong placentre without blowing it out ?

Its unlightly that you have wires crossed if it was just a plugin play...Is the bsi the exact same (part numbers etc) as your original..?

The Delphi system is a good system but its not capable of reconfiguring the bsi.
If your based new galway i can do it for you otherwise you should be able to pick up a copy version of peugeot diagbox for €100..:)
http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=peugeot+diagbox&_sacat=0

Merry Christmas.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Its unlightly that you have wires crossed if it was just a plugin play...Is the bsi the exact same (part numbers etc) as your original..?

The Delphi system is a good system but its not capable of reconfiguring the bsi.
If your based new galway i can do it for you otherwise you should be able to pick up a copy version of peugeot diagbox for €100..:)
http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=peugeot+diagbox&_sacat=0

Merry Christmas.

Ok I got the car configured and it's still not reving properly they told me that it might be a blocked exhaust but I'm not convinced

They said the maf has an open circuit

And the same with the temp sensor

The lad told me that the pin outs of the ecu that I got might be slightly different causing the temp issue

Getting browned off with peugeot now ha

Row

Where the engine ecu and bsi the exact same as they original...?

Maybe the ecu multiplugs have dampness/moisture from the time this all started..?

Are there any fault codes logged..?
Have you checked the accelerator position on live data..?

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Where the engine ecu and bsi the exact same as they original...?

Maybe the ecu multiplugs have dampness/moisture from the time this all started..?

Are there any fault codes logged..?
Have you checked the accelerator position on live data..?

Yes the ecu bsi came as a set with matching numbers to the original

I cleaned the multi plugs with electrical cleaner then dryed them out using a heat gun

The tech in conlons peugeot did not say anything about the throttle position (he wrote out a detailed list of what was done and what was not working and also what codes were on there

I'll post a picture of it when I get a chance

I have an electronic engineer lined up to take a look at the original ecu for me if it comes to that

I'm after heating the original board now in the hope that it will kick it back to life

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

Yes the ecu bsi came as a set with matching numbers to the original

I cleaned the multi plugs with electrical cleaner then dryed them out using a heat gun

The tech in conlons peugeot did not say anything about the throttle position (he wrote out a detailed list of what was done and what was not working and also what codes were on there

I'll post a picture of it when I get a chance

I have an electronic engineer lined up to take a look at the original ecu for me if it comes to that

I'm after heating the original board now in the hope that it will kick it back to life

Just an update I got the circuit diagrams for both ecu's and they are the same so it's the ecu I got that is at fault so I am in the process of trying to get my money back from the dismantlers and get one elsewhere and hopefully that will be that !

Row

Its unusual that both engine ecus are coming back with the same problem (not reving)..
The cats do give trouble so to eliminate this disconnect the cat below the turbo and see if it then reves up.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Its unusual that both engine ecus are coming back with the same problem (not reving)..
The cats do give trouble so to eliminate this disconnect the cat below the turbo and see if it then reves up.

No see the other ecu got stuck at x revs then died completely, the one I have now Is doing it because the maf is on an open circuit (I suspect) it's reving to 3k and no more

I was onto the crowd that supplied me the ecu said that the glow plugs can cause this problem but I think they are sending me in circles

I think I should just take the lot out bring it back and source a new one

Am I right ?

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

No see the other ecu got stuck at x revs then died completely, the one I have now Is doing it because the maf is on an open circuit (I suspect) it's reving to 3k and no more

I was onto the crowd that supplied me the ecu said that the glow plugs can cause this problem but I think they are sending me in circles

I think I should just take the lot out bring it back and source a new one

Am I right ?

Just a quick question if I get just the ecu unit without the rest is it possible to recode it to the bsi ect or is that to much hassle ?

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Just a quick question if I get just the ecu unit without the rest is it possible to recode it to the bsi ect or is that to much hassle ?

A s/h engine ecu cannot be recoded to the car only a new one,
The bsi (inside fusebox) has the immobiliser built into it so you need to pair the engine ecu/bsi/key which you have done.
If its reving to 3k then it sounds like its in limp mode...What faults are been flagged..?..Will they clear..?

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

A s/h engine ecu cannot be recoded to the car only a new one,
The bsi (inside fusebox) has the immobiliser built into it so you need to pair the engine ecu/bsi/key which you have done.
If its reving to 3k then it sounds like its in limp mode...What faults are been flagged..?..Will they clear..?

The maf has an open circuit along with the temp sensor

I'm just going to bring it back tomorrow and get one elsewhere I have a feeling I am after picking up someone else's problem and it's not worth the time and money relative to the price of the car

When I get the new ecu ect fitted I will report back here, thanks for your input only for you I would be lost ha

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

The maf has an open circuit along with the temp sensor

I'm just going to bring it back tomorrow and get one elsewhere I have a feeling I am after picking up someone else's problem and it's not worth the time and money relative to the price of the car

When I get the new ecu ect fitted I will report back here, thanks for your input only for you I would be lost ha

No Problem...let us know how it goes for you.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

No Problem...let us know how it goes for you.

So I went to cavan to get another one drove the sick car up to chane it up there to con firm it worked before I bought it and when I put in the ecu and bsi and turned on the key it done the same thing so I am looking at getting a new wiring harness for the maf and temp sensor which are in the one loom conveniently

As said before both of those sensors are open circuts so I will just get the loom for it out of a breakers and install it myself

To top it all off I could have done it myself pulling at wires when the ecu died in the first place (lesson learned)

I'll try get that tomorrow and I will update again

dieselbug

"As said before both of those sensors are open circuts so I will just get the loom for it out of a breakers and install it myself"



If you have the wiring diagrams and pinouts of the ecu, which I think you have, it will be easy enough to test for the open circuit faults. This will be easy for your electricial expert and right up his alley.

Try to find the cause of these faults before you change any more parts.

fergus1001

dieselbug wrote: »

"As said before both of those sensors are open circuts so I will just get the loom for it out of a breakers and install it myself"



If you have the wiring diagrams and pinouts of the ecu, which I think you have, it will be easy enough to test for the open circuit faults. This will be easy for your electricial expert and right up his alley.

Try to find the cause of these faults before you change any more parts.

Only reason I'm going that route is because it could be a plug or anything a lot of variables ill have a chat with him anyways tomorrow and get him to diagnose the wires

Row

If your getting short circuit on both the maf and air intake temp sensor then i would check the condition of that multiplug.
If they pins look spread apart then see if you can pull them together alittle and see if the faults clear.
if you need the ecu to maf wiring diagrams then pm me the vin number and i'll post them up...;)

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

If your getting short circuit on both the maf and air intake temp sensor then i would check the condition of that multiplug.
If they pins look spread apart then see if you can pull them together alittle and see if the faults clear.
if you need the ecu to maf wiring diagrams then pm me the vin number and i'll post them up...;)

Is that on the ecu side or the actual conectors I shall be going at it in the morning

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Is that on the ecu side or the actual conectors I shall be going at it in the morning

No its the plug on the maf sensor itself.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

No its the plug on the maf sensor itself.

Ah yeah the wires going into it don't look the best anyway I shall start there and if that fails then I will just run new wires to the ecu for both sensors

I'll send you that vin number momenterally

fergus1001

There is a lot of moisture in the plug going into the ecu so I have it set up with a hair drier now to get rid of it, this is the only conclusion now as I have replaced wiring to the temp sensor from the ecu and it made no difference and the wires I removed from the loom had absolutly no sign of damage or cracks

The moisture was electrical cleaner that I sprayed into the plugs when the previous ecu died :pac:

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

There is a lot of moisture in the plug going into the ecu so I have it set up with a hair drier now to get rid of it, this is the only conclusion now as I have replaced wiring to the temp sensor from the ecu and it made no difference and the wires I removed from the loom had absolutly no sign of damage or cracks

The moisture was electrical cleaner that I sprayed into the plugs when the previous ecu died :pac:

Ok done this and no difference but I disconected number 400 wire I think it's ground and the gauge in the car dropped and the stop light went out so now I'm wondering if the two plugs themselves are the problem shorting out and causing what's going on

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

Ok done this and no difference but I disconected number 400 wire I think it's ground and the gauge in the car dropped and the stop light went out so now I'm wondering if the two plugs themselves are the problem shorting out and causing what's going on

Row could it be possible to get the maf pin outs off you so I can check it and rewire as necessary ?

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Row could it be possible to get the maf pin outs off you so I can check it and rewire as necessary ?

I'll post it up if you pm me the vin number..;)

dieselbug

fergus1001 wrote: »

Ok done this and no difference but I disconected number 400 wire I think it's ground and the gauge in the car dropped and the stop light went out so now I'm wondering if the two plugs themselves are the problem shorting out and causing what's going on

Cutting the wire (400) will cause an "open circuit" condition, this will fool the ecu in to thinking the engine is stone cold.

Are you sure the fault codes are not "short circuit" faults. Is this a two wire temp sensor?

What year is the car.

fergus1001

dieselbug wrote: »

Cutting the wire (400) will cause an "open circuit" condition, this will fool the ecu in to thinking the engine is stone cold.

Are you sure the fault codes are not "short circuit" faults. Is this a two wire temp sensor?

What year is the car.

According to the peugeot mechanic he replaced the temp sensor with one he had on his work bench and it did the same thing (and switched it back because I only put that one into it 6 months ago with thermostat)

If it was shorting to ground would my temp sensor not be stone cold as well ?

It was an open circuit fault that came up for both the temp and maf for sure I have the transcript in front of me

The car is 03 (the older type hdi)

The temp sensor is a two pin one

Row

The Maf has also got a temp sensor built into it so when you get a short on temp sensor and airflow meter together then i'd be thinking that you have a supply fault or a poor ground/earth.
The airflow meter and temp sensor are feed from fuse 15 on the engine bay fusebox (Check this fuse first) if its o.k then see if your getting a good 12 volts at pin 4 on the airflow meter and also check that you have a good ground/earth at pin 6 on the maf.

I have uploaded the correct wiring diagrams for your 206...If you have any question fire away...;)

Apply to diagrams...
Pin 1 of the maf (cable 1341) = Air temp signal This goes to pin G2 on the 48 brown ecu connector
Pin 2 Of the maf (Cable 1336) = Flow meter earth This goes to E2 on the 48 brown ecu connector
Pin 4 Of he maf (cable 1337) = Airflow sensor power supply (12volts) this is supplied from pin 9 on the 16 pin black connector on the engine bay fusebox. Feed from fuse 15 engine bay fusebox) check this fuse.
Pin 5 of the maf (cable 1333 = airflow signal this goes to G1 on the 48 brown ecu connector
Pin 6 of the maf (cable MC11C) = Airflow earth supply this joins at point EM11B and is bolted onto the body at position MC11 (see diagram)

I see that cable 1252 (switching off of the engine in the event of an impact) is also on the airflow meter supply from the engine bay fusebox.....if you have moisture/poor supply this may have caused the cutting out problem.....

dieselbug

I sent you a pm

ROW beat me to it

fergus1001

Thanks both of you I will go through this tomorrow and hope for the best ! Ill report back here tomorrow at some point hope fully with a conclusion to this saga

The car will not be power washed again that's my lesson from all this

fergus1001

fergus1001 wrote: »

Thanks both of you I will go through this tomorrow and hope for the best ! Ill report back here tomorrow at some point hope fully with a conclusion to this saga

The car will not be power washed again that's my lesson from all this

Ok update is I'm pretty sure it's the earth at fault as I'm getting a voltage on some of the ground connections I am going to leave it into an auto electrician tomorrow to sort the problem for me as I cleaned all the connections and it's still not working properly so I'm at the end of the road

The maf had 1 volt on the ground pin from the ecu that's why I think it's a grounding issue

I also got a voltage on some points on the body (0.4 volts ect)

Am I right in saying this or am I gone mad

dieselbug

fergus1001 wrote: »

Ok update is I'm pretty sure it's the earth at fault as I'm getting a voltage on some of the ground connections I am going to leave it into an auto electrician tomorrow to sort the problem for me as I cleaned all the connections and it's still not working properly so I'm at the end of the road

The maf had 1 volt on the ground pin from the ecu that's why I think it's a grounding issue

I also got a voltage on some points on the body (0.4 volts ect)

Am I right in saying this or am I gone mad

Not mad at all, check the earth connection between the body and the engine, gearbox, or use a good jump lead as temperory earth.

Try running a wire from battery - to the ecu body, see if it makes a difference.

Also, have you tried the car with the maf dissconnected.

fergus1001

dieselbug wrote: »

Not mad at all, check the earth connection between the body and the engine, gearbox, or use a good jump lead as temperory earth.

Try running a wire from battery - to the ecu body, see if it makes a difference.

Also, have you tried the car with the maf dissconnected.

I have tried that but I think that causes the car to go into limp mode as well

When I ground the signal wire for the temp sensor The car revs normally though but with both wires disconected the temp goes into the red

Row

Did you pick up these stray voltages with the maf connector connected/not connected...If not connected then It sounds like cables in the loom are making connect with each other somewhere.
I would disconnect both the maf and engine ecu connectors and meter out all the cables from the wiring diagrams I posted....also meter (resistance) between the 5 pins on the maf when disconnected...This will tell if your harness is o.k. or not.

What do you mean by "but with both wires disconnected the temp goes into the red" have you disconnected the coolant temp sensor..?

dieselbug

Did you check the ECU grounds I pm'ed to you??

With the temp sensor disconnected, what voltage is at the two wires?

With the MAF disconnected, what voltage do you get on the wires going to pin 1 and pin 2 ?

Again disconnected, what voltage is on the wire going to pin 4 (you may need to be cranking the engine to get a reading for this one )

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Did you pick up these stray voltages with the maf connector connected/not connected...If not connected then It sounds like cables in the loom are making connect with each other somewhere.
I would disconnect both the maf and engine ecu connectors and meter out all the cables from the wiring diagrams I posted....also meter (resistance) between the 5 pins on the maf when disconnected...This will tell if your harness is o.k. or not.

What do you mean by "but with both wires disconnected the temp goes into the red" have you disconnected the coolant temp sensor..?

The loom isn't to blame as I cut and took out the wires for the temp sensor and replaced them with new wiire then this did not work so I took the signal wire and grounded it and the temp gauge went down to zero

I was getting that stray earth voltage with the maf disconected

And I didn't measure those each pins dieselbug as I don't have probes small enough to fit in to the conector

I also grounded the body of the ecu with a jump lead and no difference at all

If I am bringing it somewhere would it be better to bring it to main dealers or someone that has been recomended for auto electrics ?

If I were to stay at it myself my next step would be to source a new loom for the engine bay and also the battery straps possibly but at this stage I'm flinging mud at the wall

Row

Think you need to start with the basics....What are the fault codes logged on the ecu.....Maf..?

Auto electricians usually charge around €50-60 per hour which is much the same as what the main dealer charge.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Think you need to start with the basics....What are the fault codes logged on the ecu.....Maf..?

Auto electricians usually charge around €50-60 per hour which is much the same as what the main dealer charge.

Open circuit maf and temp sensor is what was logged by the main dealers

When I grounded the temp sensor and had it at zero I could feel the maf going in and out intermittently (I drove down to waterford tonight)

It's an absolute puzzle to me now that's what I'm looking at bringing it in somewhere now just to get it dealt with and draw a line under it I think

Sorry now if this is dragging on its a very strange problem with so many possibile faults

dieselbug

"Think you need to start with the basics..." Could'nt agree more

"It's an absolute puzzle to me now that's what I'm looking at bringing it in somewhere now just to get it dealt with and draw a line under it I think"

Probably best in the long run, going on for nearly a month now with little progress and if you can't probe the terminals to do some basic tests you wont be able to move foward.
It's cheaper to give e50 for an hours work to someone who knows what they are doing rather than e100 for five hours to someone who doesent.

You do really need to confirm that the powers and grounds at the ecu are all present and correct before trying anything else. You say there is 1 volt at the MAF ground wire (pin 6) The question is why, is it possible this ground is missing and the MAF is trying to ground through the temp sensor circuit? Electricity will always try to find a path to ground.

The only way to determine what is going on is to do the some testing and not to keep throwing parts at it.

French electrics are a weird and wonderful thing at the best of times.

PS. Some straight pins (shirt pins) can make excellent probes.

fergus1001

dieselbug wrote: »

"Think you need to start with the basics..." Could'nt agree more

"It's an absolute puzzle to me now that's what I'm looking at bringing it in somewhere now just to get it dealt with and draw a line under it I think"

Probably best in the long run, going on for nearly a month now with little progress and if you can't probe the terminals to do some basic tests you wont be able to move foward.
It's cheaper to give e50 for an hours work to someone who knows what they are doing rather than e100 for five hours to someone who doesent.

You do really need to confirm that the powers and grounds at the ecu are all present and correct before trying anything else. You say there is 1 volt at the MAF ground wire (pin 6) The question is why, is it possible this ground is missing and the MAF is trying to ground through the temp sensor circuit? Electricity will always try to find a path to ground.

The only way to determine what is going on is to do the some testing and not to keep throwing parts at it.

French electrics are a weird and wonderful thing at the best of times.

PS. Some straight pins (shirt pins) can make excellent probes.

Thanks for that had Christmas not been in the middle I would have been quicker to get to this point but at least I didn't throw parts at it I got it scanned and got what was needed

Thanks both for the help I will update you when I find out what actually happened to it

Row

Tis a head scratcher alright...You've tried your best.

Just checked the wiring diagrams for the engine coolant temp sensor and its getting its feed direct from the engine ecu......If the coolant temp sensor and harness is o.k. then it does look like an engine ecu fault or an engine ecu earth supply problem.


Here are the pinouts for the engine coolant temp sensor...May come in handy for the next guy.

Pin 1 of the 2 pin coolant temp sensor (Green connector) goes to pin F2 on the 48 pin brown ecu connector
(This Cable 400 = Coolant temp info)

Pin 2 of the 2 pin coolant temp sensor (Green connector) goes to pin H1 on the 48 pin brown ecu connector (Coolant temp sensor earth)

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Tis a head scratcher alright...You've tried your best.

Just checked the wiring diagrams for the engine coolant temp sensor and its getting its feed direct from the engine ecu......If the coolant temp sensor and harness is o.k. then it does look like an engine ecu fault or an engine ecu earth supply problem.

Here are the pinouts for the engine coolant temp sensor...May come in handy for the next guy.

Pin 1 of the 2 pin coolant temp sensor (Green connector) goes to pin F2 on the 48 pin brown ecu connector
(This Cable 400 = Coolant temp info)

Pin 2 of the 2 pin coolant temp sensor (Green connector) goes to pin H1 on the 48 pin brown ecu connector (Coolant temp sensor earth)

Is there a function in peugeot planet to test the functionality of the ecu ?

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Is there a function in peugeot planet to test the functionality of the ecu ?

Unfortunately not.
There are companies that do check ecu's.

If you had another ecu kit fitted with the same symptoms and fault codes then its unlikely that the ecu is at fault.

fergus1001

Row wrote: »

Unfortunately not.
There are companies that do check ecu's.

If you had another ecu kit fitted with the same symptoms and fault codes then its unlikely that the ecu is at fault.

Then in terms of man hours of work on the car would it be cheaper for me to source a loom from a breakers and get the auto electrician to install it and sort it that way ?

I'm talking the ground strap from battery plus the engine sensor loom because it looks like a grounding fault or a bad conector

Couldn't be any more than 60 to 70 for those parts if I could get them plus say 2 hours + of work

Row

fergus1001 wrote: »

Then in terms of man hours of work on the car would it be cheaper for me to source a loom from a breakers and get the auto electrician to install it and sort it that way ?

I'm talking the ground strap from battery plus the engine sensor loom because it looks like a grounding fault or a bad conector

Couldn't be any more than 60 to 70 for those parts if I could get them plus say 2 hours + of work

What if you swap out the loom and you still have the problem...?
Maybe the airflow meter & coolant temp sensor are faulty..?

Not sure what a breakers yard would charge for a full wiring loom but I know in Peugeot a new one would cost over a €1000.

Its up to you but I would be thinking on the track of getting an auto Electrician/Peugeot Mech to check the wiring first see what they say....Even better if you knew someone that would check it in the evenings without charging the Auto Electrician/Dealer rates.

What part of the country are you based in..?