Heater problem

gooner99

Hi. Have a 00 mazda 323. Not worth much at this stage and really only keeping it on the road to run out the next 6 months for NCT. The heater has only worked on level 4 (highest) for quite a while.Had it on full blast the other evening and then went to turn down the temp a little and bang the heater stopped and was replaced with a sound like/same as the horn on the car. Still doing the same thing. Handier than pressing the steering wheel to toot at people, but it's bloody cold on board now;).
Any ideas?

SEPT 23 1989

Heater matrix is gone

dash out job

enjoy:D

dr.fuzzenstein

Sounds more like a blower problem.
When you say the heater only works at 4, the heater doesn't have a numerical setting, it only goes from hot to cold. The fan however does go from 0 to 4 (or 3 in some cars). If that is gone it will need a resistor pack or maybe a motor, because when you say it makes a whining sound, that doesn't put me in mind of the heater matrix.
So which one is it OP?

Black_Knight

Brother had something similar in his Golf. Blower settings 1 and 4 worked, 2 and 3 didnt. Replaced the resistor back behind the glove box and hey presto all 4 worked again.

The way I read your post, the blower only works on 4 (heavy blow), but the temperature was working. You changed the temperature dial and "bang the heater stopped working". Not sure do you mean the heat of the heater, or the blower of the heater, or both stopped working.

gooner99

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes the blower has 4 settings but only works on 4 for a good while.
The temp knob is going from cold to hot fine when turned.

Black_Knight

gooner99 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes the blower has 4 settings but only works on 4 for a good while.
The temp knob is going from cold to hot fine when turned.

Is this the current situation?

gooner99

Black_Knight wrote: »

Is this the current situation?

Sorry no. Thats the way it worked.

Currently temp knob works fine.
1,2,3 on the blower have no effect. When I go to 4 the horn (or similar) just sounds. no blower.

Black_Knight

gooner99 wrote: »

Sorry no. Thats the way it worked.

Currently temp knob works fine.
1,2,3 on the blower have no effect. When I go to 4 the horn (or similar) just sounds. no blower.

ok.. Thats weird. If 4 was still working, id point the finger at the blower resistor pack. It could still be the situation, but im no expert. Im only suggesting the resistors since thats what happened to my bro's car. No idea how the horn got involved.

My guess is you'll have something similar to this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttbJoyl2xgY

Something like this should fix that (if thats the cause)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-323-626-PREMACY-MPV-HEATER-BLOWER-MOTOR-RESISTOR-FAN-HM636040B-HM63-60-40B-/251688714920?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AMazda&hash=item3a99d102a8

Check out a few breakers yards, maybe they'll have an old 323 (or something with the same resistor pack) knocking about. You could even try it there and then in your car.

Toyotafanboi

sounds like your resistor was blown (only working on full speed)
and now your motor has blown and is whining (from running it on full speed for too long)

both relatively cheap and easy to fix. i'd try get both second hand if you are any way practically minded you could D.I.Y. fix them.

dr.fuzzenstein

gooner99 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes the blower has 4 settings but only works on 4 for a good while.
The temp knob is going from cold to hot fine when turned.

If there's still some heat coming out the vents, but no airflow, its your blower. Resistor pack (very likely) or motor (not as likely). Had to do replace resistor on my cmax two weeks ago. Now it blows hot and cold again. Though the bang and noise is a bit disconcerting.

gooner99

Would it be fair to say that both the resister (only functioning in position 4, albeit making a horn sound when 4 is selected) and the motor (making a sound like a horn when level 4 is activated) are gone?

Anyone any idea roughly what it would cost from a scrappy for them?

Toyotafanboi

gooner99 wrote: »

Would it be fair to say that both the resister (only functioning in position 4, albeit making a horn sound when 4 is selected) and the motor (making a sound like a horn when level 4 is activated) are gone?

Anyone any idea roughly what it would cost from a scrappy for them?

It's very likely that that is your situation, yes

I would aim to pay less than €50 for both items from a breakers. You'l find the resistor is probably even quite reasonable from Mazda.

dr.fuzzenstein

OP, do not buy a second hand resistor pack!
You're just buying the same issue down the road. Resistor packs are around the 30-40 Euro mark, hardly break the bank stuff.
You could do it in stages, buy the resistor pack (new!) and fit it.
If your blower then sounds like a cat being strangled on 1-4, you know you fixed that bit. Then you could get the blower.
Or both together, go for full coverage.

Toyotafanboi

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

OP, do not buy a second hand resistor pack!
You're just buying the same issue down the road. Resistor packs are around the 30-40 Euro mark, hardly break the bank stuff.

doesn't sound like the OP plans on having the car down the road. they just want it to get them through another couple of months.

i agree a second hand resistor isn't a fantastic idea, but if i got a resistor for <€10 i'd happily take a punt that it'd last 3 months. they can vary a lot in price €60 from Rover for one for a ZR and iirc over €100 for one for a Vectra C from Opel.

i wouldn't spend the guts of €100 on a resistor for a car that was only worth €500 ish, personally.

dr.fuzzenstein

Ok makes sense. Was more thinking on how Irish scrap yards think. If it costs 100 New, I'll sell it for 90 second hand, what? You still save 10 bucks!

Black_Knight

Especially since the OP isnt sure if the resistor pack is the cause. You'd hate to buy a brand new part, and then find out that's not the problem.