Steel vs Titanium vs Stainless Steel road bikes

Ole Rodrigo

Any boardsies have a stainless steel road bike? Cost aside, how does it compare against regular steel and titanium ?

Idleater

ror_74 wrote: »

Any boardsies have a stainless steel road bike? Cost aside, how does it compare against regular steel and titanium ?

Of the above, I have steel (tange infinity) and titanium, and the titanium is lighter for similar levels of comfort, though in my case much more expensive, even though I have (arguably) budget options of both (Soma and Enigma).
Haven't tried stainless, but if you are looking for winter corrosion protection, titanium (better) or (obviously) carbon would be best.

Ole Rodrigo

I don't know if winter corrosion would be a concern, more longetivity, looks and weight to be honest.

I wonder if the difference in price between steel and ss/ ti is worth it..

countrykid

ror_74 wrote: »

Any boardsies have a stainless steel road bike? Cost aside, how does it compare against regular steel and titanium ?

I have a 931 stainless genesis...
Have had two titanium bikes before-1 full titanium
1 half carbon
The full titanium for me was a let down - didn't feel " firm" enough? Felt a little dead if I'm honest
The mixed 1- much much better-comfortable & responsive
The stainless steal is excellent - comfortable but more than plenty stiff for my measly power...

Ole Rodrigo

countrykid wrote: »

I have a 931 stainless genesis...
Have had two titanium bikes before-1 full titanium
1 half carbon
The full titanium for me was a let down - didn't feel " firm" enough? Felt a little dead if I'm honest
The mixed 1- much much better-comfortable & responsive
The stainless steal is excellent - comfortable but more than plenty stiff for my measly power...

This is exactly what I wanted to hear

Is it the Volare ? My only gripe is that SS doesn't seem to be much lighter than its steel counterpart ( in 725 tubing anyway ).

countrykid

ror_74 wrote: »

This is exactly what I wanted to hear

Is it the Volare ? My only gripe is that SS doesn't seem to be much lighter than its steel counterpart ( in 725 tubing anyway ).

Yes it's a volare
A frame of that level deserves a decent groupo and wheels so when built its respectable enough
Mine is 8.4 kg with athena & eurus
Would be less with better gear
BUT
It doesn't matter to be honest- it rides so well it negates the weight...
Doesn't annoy me anyway!!!

Ole Rodrigo

countrykid wrote: »

Yes it's a volare
A frame of that level deserves a decent groupo and wheels so when built its respectable enough
Mine is 8.4 kg with athena & eurus
Would be less with better gear
BUT
It doesn't matter to be honest- it rides so well it negates the weight...
Doesn't annoy me anyway!!!

Definitely, I wouldn't be too precious about the weight - between 8 and 8.5 would be spot on.

So tell me more about the magical ride qualities of stainless, and how ti is for those who haven't yet discovered such things :pac:

countrykid

For me the principal quality steel has is smoothness

No buzz- no jarring
Just really really smooth
Paired with good quality wheels if say it beats carbon any day for spins..
Not racing! Spins...
I know I much prefer it anyway but maybe that's because I'm not chasing strava segments or out to set pb's!
The 931 is a tad sharper than say 725 or 853 Reynolds bit nothing you'd notice..
Also I like the naked finish
No worries about scrapes and I think it looks well

Haldir

I have a titanium Seven Axiom SLX, a Genesis Stainless Steel Team Volare and a Steel Soma Smoothie.

The titanium Seven is the No. 1 bike, custom made in Boston, triple butted, the lightest frameset they make (1.2kg 50cm) at about 7.7kg total build. Campag Chorus groupset and Neutron Ultra Wheels, very comfortable, silky smooth and a joy to ride. Get off it after long sportives feeling reasonable fresh!

Recently bought the Genesis at a major discount, Reynolds 953 stainless steel with ENVE 2.0 fork. Slightly heavier than the Seven, about 8.3kg, a lot stiffer due to the larger bottom bracket and head tube size combo. Campag Athena Groupset, Shamal Wheels, built for racing (don't race) and it shows, but still reasonably comfortable. Ideal for faster club spins and group rides. The winner of this years Irish National Criterium race at Mondello was riding a Team Volare but that might have had more to do with his legs than the bike!

Soma Smoothie is the winter bike, full mudguards etc. Tange steel, cheapish frame, really smooth and comfortable, but heavy. Poor acceleration and responsiveness but ok once up to speed. More responsive steel frames at very reasonable prices are available from Soma.

Used to own a couple of Specialized Roubaix but will never again go back to carbon. Nothing wrong with it but I just prefer the longevity and feel of metal bikes.

dave2pvd

You're making an mistake ror_74. you're assuming that material is the sole determinant of ride characteristics. It's not.

Assuming quality is acceptable, design is the most important factor.

Ole Rodrigo

dave2pvd wrote: »

You're making an mistake ror_74. you're assuming that material is the sole determinant of ride characteristics. It's not.

Assuming quality is acceptable, design is the most important factor.

I know. I'm on the cusp of making an irrational decision and wanted a bit of a nudge in that direction.

Alek

If I had monies, I'd go for SS. Titanium has its own set of issues - galvanic corrosion, frame cracking, etc.

I consider SS as dependable as the good old S, but with the extra bling and slightly better weight/strength ratio.

Ole Rodrigo

How much of the issues with Ti would actually be an issue though ? Is a new frame likely to corrode, crack etc..or is the issue with some of the older makes ?

Alek

You have a fair chance your Ti frame will be in great shape for years. But I couldn't stop thinking that it MAY crack or corrode ;-) Just look at the amount of images of Ti cracks on google - steel simply does not do this.

Ole Rodrigo

True, but I get a sense that the issues were only with some of the frames built years ago when it was first introduced to the market. Frames built more recently have improved fabrication methods.

I agree SS would be preferable, but for the extra cash you're not getting a lighter frame than its steel counterpart - cash that could have gone on a decent set of spare wheels.

Lumen

My Ti Enigma frame cracked at the HT/TT junction a couple of weeks ago (about four years old). They've agreed in principle to repair it.

CramCycle

Could always go for 931 instead of 953 so you can afford those wheels.

Alek

the issues were only with some of the frames built years ago

I wouldn't be so sure about this without some extra research.

I agree SS would be preferable, but for the extra cash you're not getting a lighter frame than its steel counterpart

You do. Not much, but still - SS steel is a bit stronger that a good SS, may be drawn in thinner tubes, making the frame lighter. If only the framebuilder wants it this way Also, there is no paint - I'm guessing its making it ~100g lighter.

But in reality what you're getting for the money is corrosion resistance. Plus a load of questions, oohs and aaahs on your next Audax spin.

dave2pvd

If corrosion resistance is the issue, why not get a CAAD 10? Better still, a CAAD 10 on closeout?

Other option is a mid level CF frame. There's no huge difference between pro level hi-mod CF and the frame that is one or two rungs lower down. Or indeed, last year's model.

I'd be careful with a lot of the newer Ti builds coming from the East; Russia, China, etc. While I'm sure there are excellent craft welders in these countries, it's always going to be a risk that QC is not up to par. These frames are going to be hand made, after all.

Alek

.

Alek

If corrosion resistance is the issue, why not get a CAAD 10? Better still, a CAAD 10 on closeout?

Aluminium corrodes too - for this reason needs to be painted or at least laquered.

Other option is a mid level CF frame.

No kick, bump or scratch resistance here. Or leaving-it-locked-near-George-St-while-shopping-resistance. :pac:

dave2pvd

Alek wrote: »

Aluminium corrodes too - for this reason needs to be painted or at least laquered (or anodized)


No kick, bump or scratch resistance here. Or leaving-it-locked-near-George-St-while-shopping-resistance. :pac:

Alu does corrode, but it's not a huge issue. Alu oxide does a pretty good job of protecting the non oxided bits. Plus, Alu frames are relatively cheap. Replacing them doesn't cause too many tears.

True, CF has that bling factor and is therefore stealable. All depends on what you want it for though.

As far as kick/bump - CF is a lot stronger than ppl give it credit for. Remember, high end steel is far from rugged. Remember all those Columbus SL frames with handle bar dents on the top tube?

Scratching? Unless you go with a 'naked' finish you have to deal with paint scratches.

Alek

at least laquered (or anodized)

True, thanks

Plus, Alu frames are relatively cheap. Replacing them doesn't cause too many tears.

I guess we are drifting too far from the original idea of this thread

Remember all those Columbus SL frames with handle bar dents on the top tube?

I don't but take your word for it. High end steel tubing is stupidly thin in places (0,3, maybe even 0,2mm)

Scratching? Unless you go with a 'naked' finish you have to deal with paint scratches.

I was rather thinking of things like repeating cable friction that can go through the frame. I believe I've seen this somewhere on Boards.

Carawaystick

Stainless corrodes too if any chloride ions get onto it, such as from salted roads.

Alek

Stainless corrodes too if any chloride ions get onto it, such as from salted roads.

Pics or... ;-)