flat tyre

tom_tarbucket

Have a flat
didn't get a chance to examine it


I will bring it to lbs shop in morning.

should I ask to fix the puncture OR replace the tube ?

What are costs of each ?

Wishbone Ash

Shops will replace the tube. Costs €10-€15

micar

How about buying tyre levels, a new tube, a pump with a pressure gauge and a puncher repair kit.

Just make sure to check the inside of the tyres

All can be got from your local bike shop or halfords.

tom_tarbucket

micar wrote: »

How about buying tyre levels, a new tube, a pump with a pressure gauge and a puncher repair kit.

Just make sure to check the inside of the tyres

All can be got from your local bike shop or halfords.

what are tyre levels ?.

micar

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

what are tyre levels ?.

tyre levers. my bad

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/pedros-tyre-lever/rp-prod10042

Beasty

OP if you have never changed or repaired a tube get someone to show you or do a search on Youtube. It is very straightforward and a skill that every cyclist should have. Otherwise you can find yourself stranded away from home with no way to get your bike sorted. I can guarantee the taxi home will cost a lot more than you will still end up forking out for a new tube

eeeee

Grab yourself a repair kit or just buy a spare tube and levers tomorrow and have a go at it yourself. Youtube is your friend if you have never done it before. It's super easy. Make sure you have a good look at and run your fingers inside the tyre to make sure there isn't a tiny bit of glass/wire etc. inside. Also pump up the tube a bit before you put it back in.

If you get a repair kit, a track pump and some levers and you'll never need to pay a shop to fix a puncture for you again.

Be careful you don't turn into a super patcher. There were over 20 on my fathers front tube the last time I seen it. It got patched yet again and put back in-"sure there's nathin wrong wit dat tube". He's horrified with how little I patch mine. "Pure washte girl". I don't want to think about how many there are in the back wheel. They're a special breed. It's been a good decade since he bought a tube :eek: You have been warned!

tom_tarbucket

Thanks for replies. I may have a go me self but don't know what runes to get etc.

Another q. I'm hoping I didn't do damage. I was cycling along and noticed something wrong and stopped immediately. and back wheel flat. Hope I didn't fook up the rim....... don't know how long was like that. ...... not to long anyways.

I then proceeded to walk the bike home, was 3km away from home. could this walking of the bike home have damaged the wheel ? ( I was careful )

or is it more likely that any damage to the rim occurred maybe in the few seconds i I was on the bike and just didn't notice it flat

TonyStark

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks for replies. I may have a go me self but don't know what runes to get etc.

Another q. I'm hoping I didn't do damage. I was cycling along and noticed something wrong and stopped immediately. and back wheel flat. Hope I didn't fook up the rim....... don't know how long was like that. ...... not to long anyways.

I then proceeded to walk the bike home, was 3km away from home. could this walking of the bike home have damaged the wheel ? ( I was careful )

or is it more likely that any damage to the rim occurred maybe in the few seconds i I was on the bike and just didn't notice it flat

To all of your concerns the answer would be unlikely.

Have a look at the YouTube videos. The first change will be the slowest, you will get more adept at it the more of the you do. Trust me.

tom_tarbucket

TonyStark wrote: »

To all of your concerns the answer would be unlikely.

Have a look at the YouTube videos. The first change will be the slowest, you will get more adept at it the more of the you do. Trust me.

Thanks. I suppose its easy if ou know how. but I'll probably make a balls of first one. I don't even know how to take off the back wheel with the gears in the way etc. (presune the wheel needs to come off ; ) I have a track pump already.

Mr. Grieves

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks. I suppose its easy if ou know how. but I'll probably make a balls of first one. I don't even know how to take off the back wheel with the gears in the way etc. (presune the wheel needs to come off ; ) I have a track pump already.

Put it into the highest gear (smallest sprocket) before taking the wheel off, makes it much easier. You'll probably need to open the brake caliper too, this should be possible to do without disconnecting the cable, try to figure this out or ask here, it'll save you having to set up the brakes again when you're done.

tom_tarbucket

Mr. Grieves wrote: »

Put it into the highest gear (smallest sprocket) before taking the wheel off, makes it much easier. You'll probably need to open the brake caliper too, this should be possible to do without disconnecting the cable, try to figure this out or ask here, it'll save you having to set up the brakes again when you're done.

I have V brakes and know that part.

It's getting the back wheel off with the rear gears or derailers in the way that im not sure of

cdaly_

Before you take the wheel off, look carefully at how the chain routes through the derailleur and over the sprockets (rear gears). When it comes to putting the wheel back on, you can get confused. Once you're sure of the routing (take a pic), just pull the wheel down and lift the lower section of chain over the sprockets.

When refitting, make sure the lower section of chain is below the sprockets before pushing the wheel up into position...

Tonyandthewhale

When taking off the back wheel all you do is flip the bike upside-down, open the quick release lever (you may have to unscrew it a little to get it sufficiently loose but no need to screw it all the way out). Open your brakes using the brake quick-release (if necessary), push the derailleur back a little out of the way and pull the wheel up out of the drop-outs. If you have one or more working hands it's a doddle.
As regards fixing the puncture/replacing the tube, there's a chance you might mess it up the first time but you'll have it down by the second time. You can buy a repair kit for 2 or 3 euro and fix numerous punctures with it or you can spend 10-15e a go to have the bike shop change the tube for you.

Fian

Tonyandthewhale wrote: »

When taking off the back wheel all you do is flip the bike upside-down, open the quick release lever (you may have to unscrew it a little to get it sufficiently loose but no need to screw it all the way out). Open your brakes using the brake quick-release (if necessary), push the derailleur back a little out of the way and pull the wheel up out of the drop-outs. If you have one or more working hands it's a doddle.
As regards fixing the puncture/replacing the tube, there's a chance you might mess it up the first time but you'll have it down by the second time. You can buy a repair kit for 2 or 3 euro and fix numerous punctures with it or you can spend 10-15e a go to have the bike shop change the tube for you.

Or you can spend €5 a go and just replace the tube yourself rather than patch it. worth getting a small saddle bag and keeping tyre levers, small pump (or CO2 cartridge if you want) and a spare tube in the saddlebag. Next time you get a puncture out and about you can change it on the road and save yourself the walk home.

When you remove the tyre run your fingers along the inside of it to clean it out - make sure you don't put it back on with a piece of glass waiting to burst your new tube.

Also it is important afterwards to make sure tube is fully inflated. For fat mountain bike wheels to 60-80 psi, for skinny wheels 90-110. Counter intuitively the tube will puncture if it is under-inflated, because it loses shape and gets a "pinch flat". If you examine your burst tube and see two holes in it side by side like a "snake bite" you will know the last puncture was caused by an under inflated tube. This is why a pump with a pressure gauge is recommended.

tom_tarbucket

Tonyandthewhale wrote: »

When taking off the back wheel all you do is flip the bike upside-down, open the quick release lever (you may have to unscrew it a little to get it sufficiently loose but no need to screw it all the way out). Open your brakes using the brake quick-release (if necessary), push the derailleur back a little out of the way and pull the wheel up out of the drop-outs. If you have one or more working hands it's a doddle.
As regards fixing the puncture/replacing the tube, there's a chance you might mess it up the first time but you'll have it down by the second time. You can buy a repair kit for 2 or 3 euro and fix numerous punctures with it or you can spend 10-15e a go to have the bike shop change the tube for you.

Thanks.

I will have a go at the puncture repair on another occasion, not this time, as I need the bike up and running ASAP.

I rang the biked shop, told them I had a flat, asked is it better to a) repair the puncture or b ) replace the tube

His reply was : no bike shop in the country do repairs now, they all just replace the tubes as its just a better fix and cost difference is not too much

I took it with a grain of salt.

Price to replace tube is 12 Euro

tom_tarbucket

Fian wrote: »

Or you can spend €5 a go and just replace the tube yourself rather than patch it. worth getting a small saddle bag and keeping tyre levers, small pump (or CO2 cartridge if you want) and a spare tube in the saddlebag. Next time you get a puncture out and about you can change it on the road and save yourself the walk home.

When you remove the tyre run your fingers along the inside of it to clean it out - make sure you don't put it back on with a piece of glass waiting to burst your new tube.

Also it is important afterwards to make sure tube is fully inflated. For fat mountain bike wheels to 60-80 psi, for skinny wheels 90-110. Counter intuitively the tube will puncture if it is under-inflated, because it loses shape and gets a "pinch flat". If you examine your burst tube and see two holes in it side by side like a "snake bite" you will know the last puncture was caused by an under inflated tube. This is why a pump with a pressure gauge is recommended.

Thanks, how do I know what tube I should get for my bike, is ti simply based on some sizing ion the tyre and I just go in and get the tube that corresponds with this. How much for a tube ? Sounds like only a couple of euro

quozl

Your tyre will have it's size written on it somewhere. Something like 622-32 or some such. Have a search around for it. NB: Tyre not wheel! The wheel will also have something like 622-19 written on it. You need the tyre's dimensions not the wheel's.

If it starts with 622 then it's a standard road-bike (or Hybrid) diameter tyre. Often called 700C online.

The second number, after the hyphen, is the width of the tyre. In the case of 622-32 it would mean that the tyre is 32mm (3.2cm) wide.

If you can find that then you know what size tube it needs. Tubes cover a range, so if your tyre is 700C 32mm then you can get a tube that is 700C 25-32mm, or 700C 28 to 40 mm. As long as the range covers your tube. If multiple tubes cover it then I'd get the tube with the lower range that covers it as it'll be a bit smaller and lighter.

If it says 26 x 1 1/2 rather than 622xsomething then it's a 26" type, which is a bit smaller than the road ones. Again the second number is the width of the tyre and you just pick a tube of the correct diameter that has your tyre's width in its range.

Or when you're getting a bike shop to change your tube just ask what size tube it needs and write it down. Or even better ask them what it is, get them to sell you a tube explaining how they chose which one of their tubes was right for your bike. They get a small sale, you get the tube you need and you've learnt something everybody ought to know about their bike

MB Lacey

Tonyandthewhale wrote: »

When taking off the back wheel all you do is flip the bike upside-down, open the quick release lever (you may have to unscrew it a little to get it sufficiently loose but no need to screw it all the way out). Open your brakes using the brake quick-release (if necessary), push the derailleur back a little out of the way and pull the wheel up out of the drop-outs.

I would have thought you'd have to completely remove the QR skewer to take off the wheel?

godtabh

Beasty wrote: »

OP if you have never changed or repaired a tube get someone to show you or do a search on Youtube. It is very straightforward and a skill that every cyclist should have. Otherwise you can find yourself stranded away from home with no way to get your bike sorted. I can guarantee the taxi home will cost a lot more than you will still end up forking out for a new tube

This happened to me at the weekend. Had to get a ferry back to a bike shop. Stupid tubular tyres

TonyStark

MB Lacey wrote: »

I would have thought you'd have to completely remove the QR skewer to take off the wheel?

Nope, All you need to do is loosen it. There is no need to completely remove it.




The dropouts have an open point loosening the skewers allows the wheel to come off. The skewers are part of the wheel.

t5pwr

Hey tom_tarbucket,

PM me where you are based and if you are nearby I'll show you what to do.

Wishbone Ash

Tonyandthewhale wrote: »

When taking off the back wheel all you do is flip the bike upside-down.....

:eek::eek::eek: Please familiarise yourself with Rule 49!

Rule #49 // Keep the rubber side down.
It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn one’s steed upside down for any reason under any circumstances. Besides the risk of scratching the saddle, levers and stem, it is unprofessional and a disgrace to your loyal steed. The risk of the bike falling over is increased, wheel removal/replacement is made more difficult and your bidons will leak. The only reason a bicycle should ever be in an upside down position is during mid-rotation while crashing. This Rule also applies to upside down saddle-mount roof bars.

Carawaystick

With respect,

rule49 wrote:

The risk of the bike falling over is increased

this is completely wrong, 3 points of contact beats two every time ....

crosstownk

Carawaystick wrote: »

With respect,

this is completely wrong, 3 points of contact beats two every time ....

Irrelevant. It's against the rules. :pac:

check_six

crosstownk wrote: »

Irrelevant. It's against the rules. :pac:

I thought the only *acceptable* way to fix a puncture was to signal to your team car and wait for a fresh wheel to appear magically. Alternatively, take a whole bike off one of your domestiques and continue the chase.

Pro tip: if you have punctured at a particularly inopportune spot leaving you with the prospect of losing some time, don't forget to throw your bike into a hedge in disgust to keep the sponsors... happy?

Type 17

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

...I rang the bike shop, told them I had a flat, asked is it better to a) repair the puncture or b ) replace the tube

His reply was : no bike shop in the country do repairs now, they all just replace the tubes as its just a better fix and cost difference is not too much

I took it with a grain of salt.

Price to replace tube is 12 Euro

€12 is around average.

He's right about replacing the tube - if all tubes were repaired, about one in 20 times, the patch would leak (mechanic in a hurry, hole too close to valve, or on a seam, etc), which would mean the customer would have paid €12 and still have a puncture - not good customer service.

Also, taking a tube from a box is way quicker than checking the tube to find the hole, sanding the area, applying glue, waiting for it to dry, applying the patch, and dusting it with chalk/talc - and time is money...

The only time a tube gets patched in a shop is when they don't have another one in that (unusual) size.

However, if it's your own tube, and you have the time (at home again, after changing the tube out on the road), it's fine to patch the tube yourself, to keep as a spare for next time.

padyjoe

I've had 3 punctured tubes in a short time. 2 pinch flats (3 and 2 holes), 1 normal puncture (1hole). Repaired a punctures on two of them. They're perfect no problems! I'd say max. 2-3 patches on 1 tube is ok then replace it with a new 'unpatched' :-) tube.

Type 17

Actually, there's no limit to the amount of patches you can apply to a tube, once (1) the holes aren't too big to be patched, and (2) you don't get a hole too close to an existing patch (can't stick patches on each other). My record was 17 (decades ago, before kevlar tyres were available )