Garage Conversion

qsandas

I want to convert our garage to an office (it is about 20' x 10'). It is a separate building to the house and was built with the house in approx. 1985 (not by us!). Saying it was built on a shoestring would be a compliment.

The walls are cavity walls, but maybe that was the norm at the time. It doesn't leak or anything and doesn't appear to have any structural issues! My other half thinks the best way to do it would be to knock it and start again, but the money just isn't there.

I don't want anything fancy just somewhere that is warm with a space to store stuff.

Am I mad to think that it could be insulated and have new windows and doors. There is no ceiling just the roof so we would have to do something with that as well, when you look up it you see the timber (not sure what you call it) from wall to wall - if it was any good it would probably be called 'exposed beams'

Carpenter

Have you ever done anything like this before ??

dodzy

qsandas wrote: »

I want to convert our garage to an office (it is about 20' x 10'). It is a separate building to the house and was built with the house in approx. 1985 (not by us!). Saying it was built on a shoestring would be a compliment.

The walls are cavity walls, but maybe that was the norm at the time. It doesn't leak or anything and doesn't appear to have any structural issues! My other half thinks the best way to do it would be to knock it and start again, but the money just isn't there.

I don't want anything fancy just somewhere that is warm with a space to store stuff.

Am I mad to think that it could be insulated and have new windows and doors. There is no ceiling just the roof so we would have to do something with that as well, when you look up it you see the timber (not sure what you call it) from wall to wall - if it was any good it would probably be called 'exposed beams'

Pointless knocking what could be a good structure. Is it wired for power ( sockets & lights ) ? I'm also guessing there is no heat source (rads) there ? If its to be used as a home office, you'll need some form of heat & power as i'm sure you'd know.

Eitherway, everything is possible........ with money

qsandas

No, I'm talking about doing it ourselves

It is just a general question before I talk to a builder and look like a dumbo!

qsandas

It is wired dodzy and there is no heat. Although the oil pump is in there at the moment.

dodzy

qsandas wrote: »

It is wired dodzy and there is no heat. Although the oil pump is in there at the moment.

Ideally, a recommended builder (referred by someone you know who was happy with work done) and get him out. Tell him what you are looking for in terms of what you want the end result to be - A functional office space, new door and a window or two. Get your plan down on paper - rough draft will do - measure up what size / and location of window(s) & door. Specify light fittings / socket locations, addition of radiators, etc.

You will be looking at insulated slabbed boards on the walls, floor covering (a good quality laminate would be best - tiles too cold and carpet not practical ), ceiling space insulated and slabbed, etc.

Be specific and confident when you're chatting and it is less likely you will be taken for a ride. Realistically, assuming the roof structure and general build is of sound quality, then the big bits are already done.

Best of luck.

LK_Dave

You could line the walls with studs/battens every 400/600mm and hang an insulated plaster board, ceilings too direct to the rafters. Something like this would do the trick... http://www.kingspaninsulation.co.uk/Products/Kooltherm/Kooltherm-K18-Insulated-Plasterboard/Overview.aspx Then skim coat over.

To add to the insulation you could use rolls of fiberglass type insulation in the new attic.

The biggest challenge i see is insulating the floor as they hardly put in underfloor insulation when constructed but it may be something you'll have to live with.

You say it doesn't leak, so I assume the external face is plastered already. if not this is something you have to do or moisture will egress and damp patches will form.

As for heat I would consider a small stove to burn wood or timber. I guarantee it will become a talking point in the office as clients call in. May be best to section off the oil burner (pump) ensuring it has enough ventilation.

Another factor you must consider is radon - if there is no insulation in the ground then they hardly put in the radon barrier. You may be lucky and come from an area with no radon issues. But if you come from an area which does then you'll have to put in a radon stump and a radon barrier - in the long run it may save your life! Its not as big of a job as it sounds. But may result in a raising the floor level (false/raised floor) which would give you the opportunity to put in insulation!

These are points I would consider and price before knocking the structure and starting again. I hope it helps and good luck. - D

qsandas

Thanks lads

We got a radon test done before and it came back negative. The outside is plastered and painted so that is ok.

If we get good insulation on the internal walls would that mean we can leave the cavity walls as they are?

It is starting to sound like this might be do-able ...

dodzy

qsandas wrote: »

If we get good insulation on the internal walls would that mean we can leave the cavity walls as they are?

It is starting to sound like this might be do-able ...

Yep, leave the walls. Of course it's do-able

LK_Dave

qsandas wrote: »

Thanks lads

We got a radon test done before and it came back negative. The outside is plastered and painted so that is ok.

.

Sorry to be a radon-nazi on this point and I stand to be corrected but to get an accurate reading on the radon risk the test must be done inside a heated room/structure. It has to do with air pressure drawing the radon gas in via the floor.

Best to check out your location here .... http://www.epa.ie/radiation/radonmap/#.VFFcHTSsXng
or google radon map.
But you know your location best. I would make a point of testing again once you have the man cave office up and running.

I think its very doable. Good luck. - D

qsandas

Thanks Dave, will do

whitewalker

Hi All,

I'm new to this so not entirely sure if jumping in on a thread is the way to go but I'm looking for help. We have bought a house with a flat roofed garage conversion, it is wholly inadequate and we've engaged an architect to draw up plans to incorporate it into the house in the form of connection the existing kitchen to it by using an RSJ to support the wall that needs to come down on the ground and then building a walk in wardrobe and bathroom above connecting to the master. Now the original assumption was the garage would come down but my engineer has posed the possibility of keeping it intact. However the wall in the garage have no cavity and to add to this the gable wall is right up on the neighbors property. We are externally insulation the rest of the house but would be reluctant to do so on the neighbors side. My questions are as follows -
1. Is it possible to maintain the structure and support the rooms as outlined above??? What additional support if any is required. Note we have explored the foundations and engineer and builder friend we satisfied they are in good nick.

2. Address the insulation, the rest of the house is being pumped and externally insulated. we want to avoid a cold bridge but note the wall in question with access issue will house all kitchen units cooker, fridge, ovens and run then to a mud room and bathroom in the utility. I'm reluctant to loose a lot of internal space dry lining but want to make sure we will get the grants for all the work so unsure where this leaves me? Id there an alternative or additional method to dry lining. Note front and rear of garage can and will be externally insulated in this scenario.