Seized seatpost

1Dx

So here goes. My carbon wrap Colnago seatpost, has seized in my Colnago Dream HP. There is approx 2.5inches left in the frame. Scrapping the frame in not an option, as the frame isn't produced anymore ;(

Have tried WD40 etc. So wanted to ask, does anybody know, where I could get the seatpost reamed out, with no damage to the frame?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

ckeego

1. Is the frame carbon too?

2. As long as you wipe it off quicksmart, try an unlocking spray such as Halfords Shock and unlock-leave it for a couple of hours-not sure how carbon friendly these are hence the frame question-at this stage that is your main concern, not the seat post.

3. A common misconception is that WD 40 is a proper lubricant-it isn't really-it is a moisture disperser (hence WD-water dispersal)

Hopefully this will solve the issue.

If it is an alu frame,(or dependent on what the carbon is wrapped over) you could also try gently heating the seat tube with say a hairdryer (not too close) or some boiling water.

It should expand slightly and free the post somewhat.

Best of luck! And without stating the obvious, when you get it out, clean the seatpost thouroughly and apply anti seize inside the frame (not just on the seatpost) as it will be pushed up and off if you do.

ckeego

Hopefully not required...BUT!!!

http://www.racycles.com/products/detail/27974

1Dx

ckeego wrote: »

1. Is the frame carbon too?

2. As long as you wipe it off quicksmart, try an unlocking spray such as Halfords Shock and unlock-leave it for a couple of hours-not sure how carbon friendly these are hence the frame question-at this stage that is your main concern, not the seat post.

3. A common misconception is that WD 40 is a proper lubricant-it isn't really-it is a moisture disperser (hence WD-water dispersal)

Hopefully this will solve the issue.

If it is an alu frame,(or dependent on what the carbon is wrapped over) you could also try gently heating the seat tube with say a hairdryer (not too close) or some boiling water.

It should expand slightly and free the post somewhat.

Best of luck! And without stating the obvious, when you get it out, clean the seatpost thouroughly and apply anti seize inside the frame (not just on the seatpost) as it will be pushed up and off if you do.

Hi ckeego,

The frame is aluminium. The chain and seat stays are carbon fibre.

The seatpost is a write off, as we had it in a vice in my local shop, only getting the seatpost to move a small piece in a couple of hours. It took three of us, whilst twisting the frame, via the seatpost clamp in a vice, back and forth. We were afraid to snap the frame. So I'll be getting a new seatpost, if I can get this one out.

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated

1Dx

ckeego wrote: »

1. Is the frame carbon too?

2. As long as you wipe it off quicksmart, try an unlocking spray such as Halfords Shock and unlock-leave it for a couple of hours-not sure how carbon friendly these are hence the frame question-at this stage that is your main concern, not the seat post.

3. A common misconception is that WD 40 is a proper lubricant-it isn't really-it is a moisture disperser (hence WD-water dispersal)

Hopefully this will solve the issue.

If it is an alu frame,(or dependent on what the carbon is wrapped over) you could also try gently heating the seat tube with say a hairdryer (not too close) or some boiling water.

It should expand slightly and free the post somewhat.

Best of luck! And without stating the obvious, when you get it out, clean the seatpost thouroughly and apply anti seize inside the frame (not just on the seatpost) as it will be pushed up and off if you do.

I'm absolutley skint ckeego, unfortunately. So gotta save this frame. Cheers for the heads up on the Dream from RACYCLES. My size is 55cm. Too big for me...

ckeego

So is there just a piece of the seatpost left (ie the rest is snapped off) or is the seatpost still intact with just 2.5 left in the frame?

1Dx

ckeego wrote: »

So is there just a piece of the seatpost left (ie the rest is snapped off) or is the seatpost still intact with just 2.5 left in the frame?

The seatpost is still intact with just 2.5 left in the frame. Can't put a saddle I it though, as this is where we put the frame upside down in a vice.

ckeego

I reckon that by spraying the lubricant on the seatpost and pouring the hot water on the seat tube, it should solve the issue.

It may take several attempts, but stay patient.

Sasso

Agree with the hot water solution. We had dinghy and use flask of hot water on screw fixings before introducing a screwdriver or Allan key. Try it a couple of times and as said be patient and don't force.

boombang

I've cut and aluminium post out of a steel frame. I used a hacksaw blade and it was horrible work that took hours and hours, but it was doable. I wonder does anybody have experience of your carbon on alu combination?

paulgs

Hi I used to work on the tools in a bike shop we used to see this regularly, if you tried it in a vice with no joy nothing you sprapy or pour on it will make any difference. What we used to do was to cut off the post leaving the stuck bit in the frame then get a hacksaw blade down the centre of the remaining post and start cutting along its length, its tedious but effective you don't need to cut it all the way through just enough so you can use a large pipe p!iers to crush it or in a vice, sometimes you would have to do more than one cut but it usually always worked.

Obviously you need to be extremely careful you don't cut through the frame, if you are not an experienced mechanic a good LBS will know this trick.

darragh o meara

paulgs wrote: »

Hi I used to work on the tools in a bike shop we used to see this regularly, if you tried it in a vice with no joy nothing you sprapy or pour on it will make any difference. What we used to do was to cut off the post leaving the stuck bit in the frame then get a hacksaw blade down the centre of the remaining post and start cutting along its length, its tedious but effective you don't need to cut it all the way through just enough so you can use a large pipe p!iers to crush it or in a vice, sometimes you would have to do more than one cut but it usually always worked.

Obviously you need to be extremely careful you don't cut through the frame, if you are not an experienced mechanic a good LBS will know this trick.

As above, I've done this a few times over the last few years. Messy but works every time. Come to think of it, I have to do another this week

ckeego

paulgs wrote: »

Hi I used to work on the tools in a bike shop we used to see this regularly, if you tried it in a vice with no joy nothing you sprapy or pour on it will make any difference. What we used to do was to cut off the post leaving the stuck bit in the frame then get a hacksaw blade down the centre of the remaining post and start cutting along its length, its tedious but effective you don't need to cut it all the way through just enough so you can use a large pipe p!iers to crush it or in a vice, sometimes you would have to do more than one cut but it usually always worked.

Obviously you need to be extremely careful you don't cut through the frame, if you are not an experienced mechanic a good LBS will know this trick.

Well said, but Christ on a bike when you are cutting watch the carbon splinters-very very hazardous

torydiver

paulgs wrote: »

Hi I used to work on the tools in a bike shop we used to see this regularly, if you tried it in a vice with no joy nothing you sprapy or pour on it will make any difference. What we used to do was to cut off the post leaving the stuck bit in the frame then get a hacksaw blade down the centre of the remaining post and start cutting along its length, its tedious but effective you don't need to cut it all the way through just enough so you can use a large pipe p!iers to crush it or in a vice, sometimes you would have to do more than one cut but it usually always worked.

Obviously you need to be extremely careful you don't cut through the frame, if you are not an experienced mechanic a good LBS will know this trick.

Just to add,
Don't cut off flush with top of seat tube,
Leave 40 mm or so protruding so you have a bit of seatpost to put pipe wrench or similar on to work it.

paulgs

ckeego wrote: »

Well said, but Christ on a bike when you are cutting watch the carbon splinters-very very hazardous

It's a carbon wrap post so it's alloy

ckeego

paulgs wrote: »

It's a carbon wrap post so it's alloy

More reason for it to shard, no?

paulgs

ckeego wrote: »

More reason for it to shard, no?

I wouldn't think so if its 3M I don't think it is even carbon fibre its just a carbon fibre effect laminate film

1Dx

Thanks very much, for all the detailed insights and help guys. I really appreciate all of the comments

darragh o meara

I use one of these for cutting, much easier than trying to hold it by hand.

http://m-craft.lv/images/items/bx8n2Lw6y1E.jpg

Rotunda Shill

I destroyed a Reynolds 531 butted frame trying to remove a seat post .. learned later that caustic soda + water would have dissolved it

C-Shore

I've done two in recent months, and here's how each one went.

First time
One of them we decided to cut, and it took a lot of time and frustration. We cut it down about 20mm from the tube, and then used a hacksaw to cut down and break down the seat post. I don't recommend you do this though.

Second time
Learning from that, we tried a different approach on another.

Put an old cheap saddle on the seat post. Turn the bike upside down, and if there are bottle cage holes drilled on the seat tube, spray wd40 and cleaner in the holes, and let it run down the seat tube to try and ease up the seat post a bit.
This is better than going from the top down and anything running into the BB.

Each day, we sprayed more in, left it for 2 hours, then turned it upright and wrapped a rubber mallet in a cloth, and hammered the rails of the saddle to knock it up.

Some days we literally only moved it 2mm, but after a week, we went in one day, and hammered it, and the seat post just popped out.

Neither way is quick, but the second way was a lot easier and less frustrating. Plus, we were actually able to use all the parts again.

Even the saddle was fine, the rails took a lot of hits but the saddle is working perfect.

C-Shore

1Dx wrote: »

The seatpost is still intact with just 2.5 left in the frame. Can't put a saddle I it though, as this is where we put the frame upside down in a vice.

When I read this at first, I thought you meant because the vice was around the clamps.

So is there no way to put a saddle onto the seatpost?

1Dx

C-Shore wrote: »

When I read this at first, I thought you meant because the vice was around the clamps.

So is there no way to put a saddle onto the seatpost?

There is no way I can put a saddle on the seatpost now

When in the shop, we took off the saddle, turned the bike upside down and put it into a vice. It too three of us together, (one at each end of the frame, and third person underneath) rocking the frame back and forth, to move seatpost just a few Mm's over a few hours.

The creaking out of the frame was UNREAL, and we were afraid of snapping the chain and seat stays, as they are carbon fibre. The main triangle of the frame is aluminium..

iwillhtfu

If it moved to some degree then the above method should work just keep spraying in wd40 and allow it to run down toward the seat post.

If you can move it a bit then try do this after you spray in the WD40 even if it means moving it further in the way as opposed to out the way. They haven't welded themselves together so it's just a matter of enough lubrication and time should see it free.

C-Shore

1Dx wrote: »

There is no way I can put a saddle on the seatpost now

When in the shop, we took off the saddle, turned the bike upside down and put it into a vice. It too three of us together, (one at each end of the frame, and third person underneath) rocking the frame back and forth, to move seatpost just a few Mm's over a few hours.

The creaking out of the frame was UNREAL, and we were afraid of snapping the chain and seat stays, as they are carbon fibre. The main triangle of the frame is aluminium..

Yeah I know, I remember nearly bursting blood vessels trying to pull a seatpost out, but it's pretty much impossible.

Is there anything you can put across the seatoost to imitate saddle rails? Just something to hammer upwards? The force from a swinging hammer is much greater than pulling it.

Unfortunately, aside from cutting it - it will take time and patience to work it out. Only f you can hammer something though.

I'd be happy to take it into our workshop and work on it for you if you're interested? No charge or anything.

countrykid

Unconventional.... BUT it works...
Coca Cola!!!!
Remove the bottom bracket and turn the frame upside down..
Fill ( via a pipe) the seat tube with coke so that the seatpost is submerged in the fluid-

Leave for a few hours/ over night ..

Return to the vice and gently side to side the frameset ..

Has worked for me more than once on extreme cases!

bcmf

Digging up an old thread.....

Carbon frame with alu seatpost!
Seatpost not intertested in budging.
Tempted to try the Coke trick unless someone else has any idea's!

Grassey

bcmf wrote: »

Digging up an old thread.....

Carbon frame with alu seatpost!
Seatpost not intertested in budging.
Tempted to try the Coke trick unless someone else has any idea's!

I had this before Christmas.

I sprayed a little wd40 in at the top of the seal and let it seep in over a day or so. Then stood over the top tube and twisted. Came out with a pop. I was disgusted by the amount of crud that'd gotten in over the space of a month!