EXTENDING MILKING MACHINE

keep going

Anyone running 12/13 units on 2 inch lines.the recommended size is bigger but I have the pump and if you are changing the lines its practically a new machine.some times I think specs are based on 7 or 8 gallon cows which mine are not

Sam Kade

I know a farmer who put up a new parlour last year 2" milk line with 11 units. A lot of the time it's the milking technicians making extra money for themselves :mad: with 3" line you need a jet wash at the end. How many units have you already?

keep going

Sam Kade wrote: »

I know a farmer who put up a new parlour last year 2" milk line with 11 units. A lot of the time it's the milking technicians making extra money for themselves :mad: with 3" line you need a jet wash at the end. How many units have you already?

Ten , the milk pump handles that no bother so I've no worries there and I have the vac pump.2 extra units would save half an hour a day nothing to be snifed at

jaymla627

keep going wrote: »

Anyone running 12/13 units on 2 inch lines.the recommended size is bigger but I have the pump and if you are changing the lines its practically a new machine.some times I think specs are based on 7 or 8 gallon cows which mine are not

Running 14 on a two inch line no hassle at all once the slope of the pipe is right which is the main thing, no hassle here at all even when cows are at peak a row is only taking 8 mins tops in the spring, find the machine is alot cleaner when using smaller lines as alot less pipe space to wash

jack o shea

lads milk is very slow going through the line for me at the moment,overflowing into small jar in the morning milkings,any ideas what might be the prob?

freedominacup

keep going wrote: »

Anyone running 12/13 units on 2 inch lines.the recommended size is bigger but I have the pump and if you are changing the lines its practically a new machine.some times I think specs are based on 7 or 8 gallon cows which mine are not

Running 15 but its 7 and 8 iykwim. Two milk lines. Tbc consistently under 5k usually under 3. Plenty of 40l plus cows here. Problem here is receiver vessel is too small. I would also question the need for the bigger lines.

whelan2

jack o shea wrote: »

lads milk is very slow going through the line for me at the moment,overflowing into small jar in the morning milkings,any ideas what might be the prob?

Have you an inplate cooler? Is it blocked?

_Brian

jack o shea wrote: »

lads milk is very slow going through the line for me at the moment,overflowing into small jar in the morning milkings,any ideas what might be the prob?

What sort of milk pump have you??
Is the overflowing recent thing??

_Brian

Sam Kade wrote: »

I know a farmer who put up a new parlour last year 2" milk line with 11 units. A lot of the time it's the milking technicians making extra money for themselves :mad: with 3" line you need a jet wash at the end. How many units have you already?

In fairness the recommended milk lines per unit is recommended down to the installers. There is a minimum standard to meet for the number of units you have. All based on research in moor park.
Installers may advise bigger lines to allow for upgrading but you don't have to go with that.

Viewtodiefor

keep going wrote: »

Anyone running 12/13 units on 2 inch lines.the recommended size is bigger but I have the pump and if you are changing the lines its practically a new machine.some times I think specs are based on 7 or 8 gallon cows which mine are not

You shouldn't have any problem as long as your receiving jar is big enough slopes correct ( 8mm Allen key under one end of a 600mm level) and milk pump is good enough. One thing to watch for is that your milk lift is not too high towards the end of you line. Measured from cow standing to top of inlet

jack o shea

its a fullwood pump,oldish enough i think, just in the last week or so,its like milking in the peak april/may months maybe filling up more so now.tbc has been good all tyear so i doubt line is dirty,could a piece of a glove or something block it or is pump in trouble?

Viewtodiefor

jack o shea wrote: »

its a fullwood pump,oldish enough i think, just in the last week or so,its like milking in the peak april/may months maybe filling up more so now.tbc has been good all tyear so i doubt line is dirty,could a piece of a glove or something block it or is pump in trouble?

Shaft seal and flap valve needs replacing probably.

keep going

Thanks , it looks like its a runner so

jack o shea

view to die for is that the black barrell shaped thing has a flap at the bottom?what or where is the shaft seal? thanks btw.

_Brian

jack o shea wrote: »

view to die for is that the black barrell shaped thing has a flap at the bottom?what or where is the shaft seal? thanks btw.

The ring with the flaap in the centre is a non return valve.
The shaft seal is inside the head of the pump where the impeller passes through the base of the pump from the motor..

Are you seeing any bubbles rising in the receiver jar?? Bubbles show that either shaft seal or non return valve are passing, this would reduce pumping capability.

Non return valve will be a simple cheap part to replace and see how it goes..

jack o shea

thanks brian, ye i can see bubbles when running the water and detergent through after milking,jar slow to empty.

Sam Kade

_Brian wrote: »

In fairness the recommended milk lines per unit is recommended down to the installers. There is a minimum standard to meet for the number of units you have. All based on research in moor park.
Installers may advise bigger lines to allow for upgrading but you don't have to go with that.

Put up the recommended sizes then or a link to them I was advised to put in a 3" line for 8 units that could be expanded to 10 by the installer which was total overkill. 2.5" would be the usual if installing from new.

_Brian

jack o shea wrote: »

thanks brian, ye i can see bubbles when running the water and detergent through after milking,jar slow to empty.

Bubbles either coming back in via the non return or around the shaft milk pump seal.
Change the non return valve, see how it goes, but to change the milk pump seal you'll need a technician, sometimes the shaft needs replacing too.

_Brian

Sam Kade wrote: »

Put up the recommended sizes then or a link to them I was advised to put in a 3" line for 8 units that could be expanded to 10 by the installer which was total overkill. 2.5" would be the usual if installing from new.

Ah, it's so long since I worked as a technician I don't have that information and I presume it's changed since, 15+ years ago I worked as a machine technician.

Here you go.
Google is your friend.
This document has all relate to stats for installing machines.

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/77602785/IMQCS-Regulator

Greengrass1

Brian my jar is a hoor to empty. Froths up mad. After two rows. Usually only does it in summer when the cows are full of milk but its still at it. I have to have the pump going continuously to stop it going into over flow jar instead of it only cutting in when it hits the probe.
The uncle said it was because the milk line was too small and the pressure of the milk going into jar is making the milk froth.

_Brian

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Brian my jar is a hoor to empty. Froths up mad. After two rows. Usually only does it in summer when the cows are full of milk but its still at it. I have to have the pump going continuously to stop it going into over flow jar instead of it only cutting in when it hits the probe.
The uncle said it was because the milk line was too small and the pressure of the milk going into jar is making the milk froth.

There are many reasons this happens from.
Air bleeds in claws worn and frothing milk from introducing too much air.
Leaks in the air line.
Poor design dropping the milk down from too high into the receiver jar.
The receiver could be undersized for the number of units
Milk pump not pumping properly.

Obviously it's not as simple as just dumping in too much milk from milk jars at one time?

Greengrass1

_Brian wrote: »

There are many reasons this happens from.
Air bleeds in claws worn and frothing milk from introducing too much air.
Leaks in the air line.
Poor design dropping the milk down from too high into the receiver jar.
The receiver could be undersized for the number of units
Milk pump not pumping properly.

Obviously it's not as simple as just dumping in too much milk from milk jars at one time?

There was a smaller jar on it and we changed it to a bigger one. Prob 60l? 6 unit parlour
I've no jars in my parlour all milk goes straight to the jar at top of pit.
Machine is 25yr old and hasn't had a good service in a while

_Brian

Good service would be a start.
Would be interesting to see air leakage tests performed right down to the individual milk line, pulsation etc.

You should ask for the full test before the service. Then same after and compare results. Will cost a bit extra but it's interesting to see, you get to see the advantage of a good service.


What I have seen done and it's more masking a problem than anything is to keep the wash spreader over during milking, this pushes the milk down the sides of the jar rather than plunging down into centre of milk causing more froth. Doesn't work with all lids though.

Ask technician to clean the probes for the milk pump too. Helps ensure the pump is coming on in time.

Greengrass1

_Brian wrote: »

Good service would be a start.
Would be interesting to see air leakage tests performed right down to the individual milk line, pulsation etc.

You should ask for the full test before the service. Then same after and compare results. Will cost a bit extra but it's interesting to see, you get to see the advantage of a good service.


What I have seen done and it's more masking a problem than anything is to keep the wash spreader over during milking, this pushes the milk down the sides of the jar rather than plunging down into centre of milk causing more froth. Doesn't work with all lids though.

Ask technician to clean the probes for the milk pump too. Helps ensure the pump is coming on in time.

I'll get onto uncle again