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Haybob

  • 23-08-2014 12:11am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34


    I know this is out of season but can anybody give some info on buying a second hand haybob. what is the difference between 250 and 300 models, Is there anything I should look out for. What should the price be approx. Many thanks in advance,


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    Hilltopman wrote: »
    I know this is out of season but can anybody give some info on buying a second hand haybob. what is the difference between 250 and 300 models, Is there anything I should look out for. What should the price be approx. Many thanks in advance,

    I would have thought the 250 was an old model but could be wrong?

    There's not a lot to them really, make sure they turn freely with no grinding, pull down each of the tines as they pass the centre divider plate to make sure they dont hit, make sure there's no major wobbles in the rings as they can be straightened, but its a so so job and you would really need to go to some of the guys that advertise on the journal now and then.

    Make sure there's no cracks appearing where the main beam meets the pivot at the front headstock, they can crack there if bounced around on rough ground and roads a lot.

    On a slight side note, if your just going to be turning it and letting contractor rake it up to bale id try find a lely 300(gemini) they are a far better machine to turn hay than a haybob but the hay bob rakes up into a swarth much better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 998 ✭✭✭Damo810


    Zr105 wrote: »
    I would have thought the 250 was an old model but could be wrong?

    There's not a lot to them really, make sure they turn freely with no grinding, pull down each of the tines as they pass the centre divider plate to make sure they dont hit, make sure there's no major wobbles in the rings as they can be straightened, but its a so so job and you would really need to go to some of the guys that advertise on the journal now and then.

    Make sure there's no cracks appearing where the main beam meets the pivot at the front headstock, they can crack there if bounced around on rough ground and roads a lot.

    On a slight side note, if your just going to be turning it and letting contractor rake it up to bale id try find a lely 300(gemini) they are a far better machine to turn hay than a haybob but the hay bob rakes up into a swarth much better.

    To add to this, check the dividing gate for cracks, this broke on our Pz one.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 492 ✭✭The Cuban


    And remember its called a Haybob for a reason, its meant for hay not silage.
    Just spent 3 hours trying to make rows out of a paddock i cut yesterday, the Haybob is a bloody disaster with short grass. (its a bloody disaster with heavy overgrown silage too)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    Damo810 wrote: »
    To add to this, check the dividing gate for cracks, this broke on our Pz one.

    I'm not sure how i forgot that! :( ours broke in the first year and the bloody tines rattle off it on one side ever since as it's welded slightly out of line... :(:(

    If your ever trying to turn up straw thats got wet/driven on with one its best to undo the spring and bolt and swing the divider up, if you have it off the tractor and lift it with loader you can just swing it around and it'll sit on the rear bar, if you leave it down it catches in the swarths and makes a balls of it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭Testacalda


    The number one rule I have found for Haybobs over the years...

    Get it working perfectly, and then don't let anyone else borrow it!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,244 ✭✭✭sea12


    Testacalda wrote: »
    The number one rule I have found for Haybobs over the years...

    Get it working perfectly, and then don't let anyone else borrow it!

    Agree the amount of lads that just drop it and off they go snd never set it that's it's not catching the ground or that it's not turning the full swarth is unreal,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,313 ✭✭✭✭Sam Kade


    The Cuban wrote: »
    And remember its called a Haybob for a reason, its meant for hay not silage.
    Just spent 3 hours trying to make rows out of a paddock i cut yesterday, the Haybob is a bloody disaster with short grass. (its a bloody disaster with heavy overgrown silage too)
    I rowed in short grass plenty times with the hay bob it leaves very a small amount after it maybe a quarter of a bale on 5 acres. Hay you new tines on it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭MrFoxman360


    Testacalda wrote: »
    The number one rule... ...don't let anyone else borrow it!


    hear hear!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    Hilltopman wrote: »
    I know this is out of season but can anybody give some info on buying a second hand haybob. what is the difference between 250 and 300 models, Is there anything I should look out for. What should the price be approx. Many thanks in advance,

    try it on a tractor when lookin at one too,
    no good buyin one thats warped or with f**ked bearings and finding it out at home ;)


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