Experience with insulating period property

tacheles

I would appreciate if anyone could tell me whether they have insulated their/a period property and if so, how they have done it. Most contractors want to install standard dry lining but it seems that we have to go with breathable/eco-friendly materials if we want to avoid future problems. Its a challenge for us because everyone assumes we have lots of money living in a period property of a certain size. Unfortunatley not the case, but I still need to make it warmer!!! Thankful for any contacts, info etc.

MicktheMan

tacheles wrote: »

but I still need to make it warmer!!!

Have you considered testing the house for air tightness rather than concentrating solely on insulation?

kkelliher

tacheles wrote: »

I would appreciate if anyone could tell me whether they have insulated their/a period property and if so, how they have done it. Most contractors want to install standard dry lining but it seems that we have to go with breathable/eco-friendly materials if we want to avoid future problems. Its a challenge for us because everyone assumes we have lots of money living in a period property of a certain size. Unfortunatley not the case, but I still need to make it warmer!!! Thankful for any contacts, info etc.

you need to use something like a Calsitherm climate board (calcium silicate boards), or a Gutex thermowall board both of which are extremely expensive when compared to standard therm liners.

RITwing

Or insulate modestly. Max 37mm insulation composite board / U Value 0.5 w/m2K

wildefalcon

I'd look at the high heat loss areas first. My place was built in 1910 and is solid stone walls.

First thing to do would be double glazing and draft proofing the exterior doors. Heavy curtains and thermal linings make a heck of a difference. You can get double glazed and draught proofed wooden sash windows from reputable specialists.

Then I'd look at the underfloor voids and chimneys, and, of course the floor boards for gaps.

Go for the easier wins, some stuff you can do your self, and windows you can buy one each season or something. Inset stoves like the Esse 301 seal the chimney when not in use, and look period enough to feel right in a period fireplace. They can, of course, be removed.

tacheles

Thank you all!!

All windows in the house are double glazed (Marvin Sash windows in the front) and PVC double glazed to the back. I am currently filling the floorgaps on the ground floor with stopgap kind of stuff. One of the fireplaces is closed up with a balloon, might consider the second one as well.

How else can I improve/check on air tightness?

Yes, I suspected that 'alternative' materials for drylining would be more expensive... TOO expensive.. but eventually will have to do it... the alternative of insulating with max 37 mm composite board- do you think that would avoid future problems (moist/condensation on old masonry work). Would it improve the insulation considerably?

LAST question: how much would it roughly cost per square metre of internal wall to insulate with e.g. 37 mm board including labour?

THANKS A MILLION!!

RITwing

tacheles wrote: »

the alternative of insulating with max 37 mm composite board- do you think that would avoid future problems (moist/condensation on old masonry work). Would it improve the insulation considerably?

LAST question: how much would it roughly cost per square metre of internal wall to insulate with e.g. 37 mm board including labour?

Reverse order

Approx 50€/m2

Uninsulated wall - approx 2.1 w/m2k reduced to 0.5 w/m2k. The improvement is massive.
Keeping the insulation thickness down will assist the drying out of trapped condensation. But beware - you must also ensure the wall is not moistened futher by poor brickwork joints, cracked , damaged window cills, leaky gutters and roof over hangs leaky down pipes etc .

wildefalcon

RITwing wrote: »

Reverse order

Approx 50€/m2

Uninsulated wall - approx 2.1 w/m2k reduced to 0.5 w/m2k. The improvement is massive.
Keeping the insulation thickness down will assist the drying out of trapped condensation. But beware - you must also ensure the wall is not moistened futher by poor brickwork joints, cracked , damaged window cills, leaky gutters and roof over hangs leaky down pipes etc .

Also avoid the use of cement based pointing/external plaster on Stone walls, it can trap the moisture as it doesn't let the stone breathe.

wildefalcon

tacheles wrote: »

Thank you all!!

All windows in the house are double glazed (Marvin Sash windows in the front) and PVC double glazed to the back. I am currently filling the floorgaps on the ground floor with stopgap kind of stuff. One of the fireplaces is closed up with a balloon, might consider the second one as well.

How else can I improve/check on air tightness?

Yes, I suspected that 'alternative' materials for drylining would be more expensive... TOO expensive.. but eventually will have to do it... the alternative of insulating with max 37 mm composite board- do you think that would avoid future problems (moist/condensation on old masonry work). Would it improve the insulation considerably?

LAST question: how much would it roughly cost per square metre of internal wall to insulate with e.g. 37 mm board including labour?

THANKS A MILLION!!

If you have underfloor voids consider removing the floor boards, attaching breathable membrane under the joists and filling with rockwool/glassfibre insulation, it made a heck of a difference in my place - eliminating the draft from the outside when it was -2 degrees transformed the property. Be sure that you don't block up the vents, or you'll have damp issues.