fencing

Greengrass1

Plan to fence the yard entrance and main roadway leaving yard this winter.
Replacing 30+yr old wooden railing
Possibly 100 stakes.
How many yards apart do lads put stakes.
Father usually goes 5 here and don't think it looks that well
Want a good quality stake. PBM in Kilkenny the best I here?
Will be putting up two strands on it.
Any fencing tips fire away.

Cow Porter

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Plan to fence the yard entrance and main roadway leaving yard this winter.
Replacing 30+yr old wooden railing
Possibly 100 stakes.
How many yards apart do lads put stakes.
Father usually goes 5 here and don't think it looks that well
Want a good quality stake. PBM in Kilkenny the best I here?
Will be putting up two strands on it.
Any fencing tips fire away.

Pdm or pbm whoever the only crowd to do proper creosote I think, they supply frs.

High tensile or mild steel fence wire? High tensile looks well if done right but a bitch to work, some videos on YouTube

Greengrass1

Cow Porter wrote: »

Pdm or pbm whoever the only crowd to do proper creosote I think, they supply frs.

High tensile or mild steel fence wire? High tensile looks well if done right but a bitch to work, some videos on YouTube

I can work high tensile but father hates it.
His opinion is what of you have to take the fence down sometime

Cow Porter

Greengrass1 wrote: »

I can work high tensile but father hates it.
His opinion is what of you have to take the fence down sometime

This lad makes it look fair easy


Fencing - metal wire: http://youtu.be/w2kAsHA7KWA

Greengrass1

Cow Porter wrote: »

This lad makes it look fair easy


Fencing - metal wire: http://youtu.be/w2kAsHA7KWA

Jesus he is good..
A nice fence makes a good impression

Greengrass1

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Jesus he is good..
A nice fence makes a good impression

I'll have to watch that video a few times. To get the techniques right.
I prefers when the loops are up tight not the way he has the space before them

freedominacup

Greengrass1 wrote: »

I'll have to watch that video a few times. To get the techniques right.
I prefers when the loops are up tight not the way he has the space before them

Either he's one of those lads who can eat three shredded wheats or that's the softest high tenstile wire I've ever seen. Always use high tensile here. The inline strainers he uses are a great job for keeping wire tight after. We use a half inch strong arm to tighten them. Hayes strainers are vital. If you have a good bit to do those gripley joiners are very handy for the odd time wire kinks when you are rolling it out. That fencing tool he had is a handy bit of kit as well. A small tool pouch that goes on your belt can save a lot of walking, hammer, vise grip, fencing tool insulators and staples all to hand.

Greengrass1

freedominacup wrote: »

Either he's one of those lads who can eat three shredded wheats or that's the softest high tenstile wire I've ever seen. Always use high tensile here. The inline strainers he uses are a great job for keeping wire tight after. We use a half inch strong arm to tighten them. Hayes strainers are vital. If you have a good bit to do those gripley joiners are very handy for the odd time wire kinks when you are rolling it out. That fencing tool he had is a handy bit of kit as well. A small tool pouch that goes on your belt can save a lot of walking, hammer, vise grip, fencing tool insulators and staples all to hand.

Have a Hayes strainer here.
How do you do the tie on the egg when straining the wire like he did at the start?

frazzledhome

freedominacup wrote: »

Either he's one of those lads who can eat three shredded wheats or that's the softest high tenstile wire I've ever seen. Always use high tensile here. The inline strainers he uses are a great job for keeping wire tight after. We use a half inch strong arm to tighten them. Hayes strainers are vital. If you have a good bit to do those gripley joiners are very handy for the odd time wire kinks when you are rolling it out. That fencing tool he had is a handy bit of kit as well. A small tool pouch that goes on your belt can save a lot of walking, hammer, vise grip, fencing tool insulators and staples all to hand.

That fencing tool €15 Glanbia, essential.

Greengrass1

frazzledhome wrote: »

That fencing tool €15 Glanbia, essential.

Meaning to get one since I seen them first. Father lost our nips so I'll be buying one

frazzledhome

Some of my work
The secret is good strainers and turners. Tighten wire till you can stand on it

I'll post a pic of the same knot he uses but a simpler way tomorrow

Greengrass1

frazzledhome wrote: »

Some of my work
The secret is good strainers and turners. Tighten wire till you can stand on it

I'll post a pic of the same knot he uses but a simpler way tomorrow

Very tidy.
How do you tie the wire that way when straining?

Greengrass1

Another question
What distances do you put double strands at?
Knee and hip?

frazzledhome

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Another question
What distances do you put double strands at?
Knee and hip?

Balls high and length of tool for bottom, fencing tool that is. Stakes hip high, cut a stick and use as a measure.

Greengrass1

frazzledhome wrote: »

Balls high and length of tool for bottom, fencing tool that is. Stakes hip high, cut a stick and use as a measure.

Fencing tool couldn't be more than 7inches long? Bit low for a bottom strand?

Zr105

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Fencing tool couldn't be more than 7inches long? Bit low for a bottom strand?

Same as above here 'cept its referred to as Mickey height here Claw hammer between them or else one of the fencing pliers, there fairly long handled

trixi2011

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A9mSs2kUEe1TpnAAXjhLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTE0OTl0c2ttBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMwRjb2xvA2lyMgR2dGlkA1ZJUFVLMDdfMQ--/RV=2/RE=1408074133/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cyclonewire.co.nz%2ffile%2ffencing-facts-brochure.pdf/RK=0/RS=wtf92ksRfv8YsPVbMbXJ0C26M1A-
https://www.rd1.com/system/product-images/images/000/011/752/grid/203676.png?1397363451
Good not guide for you there and do you use the type of strainers in the second link they are a great job

visatorro

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Another question
What distances do you put double strands at?
Knee and hip?

If your going to the bother of putting up the fence would you not go with three strands, more secure for calves etc

Greengrass1

visatorro wrote: »

If your going to the bother of putting up the fence would you not go with three strands, more secure for calves etc

Two strand on half the farm and they do the job fine.

Greengrass1

trixi2011 wrote: »

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A9mSs2kUEe1TpnAAXjhLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTE0OTl0c2ttBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMwRjb2xvA2lyMgR2dGlkA1ZJUFVLMDdfMQ--/RV=2/RE=1408074133/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cyclonewire.co.nz%2ffile%2ffencing-facts-brochure.pdf/RK=0/RS=wtf92ksRfv8YsPVbMbXJ0C26M1A-
https://www.rd1.com/system/product-images/images/000/011/752/grid/203676.png?1397363451
Good not guide for you there and do you use the type of strainers in the second link they are a great job

Yep we use them. Father had a pair for 20yrs or more and neighbour borrowed it and "said he lost it" and replaced it with a cheap one that broke after its first use

frazzledhome

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Very tidy.
How do you tie the wire that way when straining?

Tie anchor end as per video, tighter to strainer though. Other end wrap chain around post with lever back on last link of chain. Pull max and you'll have enough room to tie as per video. Tap of hammer on lever end, hey presto

darragh_haven

frazzledhome wrote: »

Tie anchor end as per video, tighter to strainer though. Other end wrap chain around post with lever back on last link of chain. Pull max and you'll have enough room to tie as per video. Tap of hammer on lever end, hey presto

I remember my dad telling me to tighten the wirw as much as I could, and left me finish the job. He looked at my handy work the day after, and fuccked me out of it saying the wire was sagging. I'd cracked the pole on the far end. The old ESB pole we use was rotten in the middle.

You need good end post.

Muckit

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Jesus he is good..
A nice fence makes a good impression

Yes he gives all the basics there with the wire. Yes that lad gives all the basics. Spent a summer with a fencing contractor when was a young lad and l felt twas better than off drawing silage. Have fenced most of our farm myself.

Here's a NZ lad that is well on top of his game in my opinion. Found his videos a few years back Watch his other videos also. Working in some very unforgiving terrain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71YHr-v9vSE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

ganmo

all ye feckin dairy men chattin about fencing! ya don't know hardship!
trying to keep a fence straight is great except when ya find a nice big rock right where ya wanted to plant the next post. ah but ya say move up or down the fence...fecking rock! so ya have to take it out of line.
then ya try and keep the post straight when driving it...but the post decides it wants to lie one way.

and then ya think you've done a smashing job and let the sheep into the field, Oh whats this they found a gap *sigh*

paddysdream

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Plan to fence the yard entrance and main roadway leaving yard this winter.
Replacing 30+yr old wooden railing
Possibly 100 stakes.
How many yards apart do lads put stakes.
Father usually goes 5 here and don't think it looks that well
Want a good quality stake. PBM in Kilkenny the best I here?
Will be putting up two strands on it.
Any fencing tips fire away.

What do you need the fence for?
Is it basic stockproofing or does it need to look passable as well?
What sort of stock will be in the field?

Done an entrance here and roadway about 2 years ago.Used post and rail(3 rail)for the entrance and cresoted stakes(not PDM) for the roadway fence with sheepwire and 1 strand of ht. barbed.
Stakes at 4m apart looks ok;any more looks a bit"gappy" on a roadside fence but will still be ok
.PDM stakes are pretty good but expensive.Have a warranty and are worth it for a fence that will be seen every day.Used northern ones myself to try out.Looked ok but starting to fade a bit so maybe not as "cresoted"
2 strands of barbed wire looks a bit "mean" on an entrance fence and unless its dairy cows only would prefer at least 3 or 4 strands.
High tensile wire is the only type to use;medium will sag after a short while and is much harder to work with ie to restrain or to tie properly etc.
The most important part of any fence is the strainers and props.Good 8 ft. strainers properly propped will leave fencing it a doddle.
Drive your strainers and both ends(plus ones on the bends or turns if any) and prop them.Then pull a line with plain wire from one end to the other and use this as a guide to drive the stakes.
Like was mentioned earlier,cut a lat to use as a height guide.Normally just then mark the lat with a marker as to the height of the various strands and walk along the fence and mark each stake and strainer.Saves wondering if a stake is up or down or if you use the wrong end of a tool to set the gaps.
Then just tie on the wire,strain and staple it to the marks.
DO NOT drive home the staples.

Greengrass1

ganmo wrote: »

all ye feckin dairy men chattin about fencing! ya don't know hardship!
trying to keep a fence straight is great except when ya find a nice big rock right where ya wanted to plant the next post. ah but ya say move up or down the fence...fecking rock! so ya have to take it out of line.
then ya try and keep the post straight when driving it...but the post decides it wants to lie one way.

and then ya think you've done a smashing job and let the sheep into the field, Oh whats this they found a gap *sigh*

My neighbour uses 3 strands of poly wire and plastic stakes. No problem keeping the sheep in

just do it

ganmo wrote: »

all ye feckin dairy men chattin about fencing! ya don't know hardship!
trying to keep a fence straight is great except when ya find a nice big rock right where ya wanted to plant the next post. ah but ya say move up or down the fence...fecking rock! so ya have to take it out of line.
then ya try and keep the post straight when driving it...but the post decides it wants to lie one way.

and then ya think you've done a smashing job and let the sheep into the field, Oh whats this they found a gap *sigh*

If you really want it straight drill a hole and drop in a length of rebar cut to the length you want. You'll still need strainers at either end of course.

Always liked the idea of a few sheep but also know I could never handle the frustration of managing them!

Greengrass1

paddysdream wrote: »

What do you need the fence for?
Is it basic stockproofing or does it need to look passable as well?
What sort of stock will be in the field?

Done an entrance here and roadway about 2 years ago.Used post and rail(3 rail)for the entrance and cresoted stakes(not PDM) for the roadway fence with sheepwire and 1 strand of ht. barbed.
Stakes at 4m apart looks ok;any more looks a bit"gappy" on a roadside fence but will still be ok
.PDM stakes are pretty good but expensive.Have a warranty and are worth it for a fence that will be seen every day.Used northern ones myself to try out.Looked ok but starting to fade a bit so maybe not as "cresoted"
2 strands of barbed wire looks a bit "mean" on an entrance fence and unless its dairy cows only would prefer at least 3 or 4 strands.
High tensile wire is the only type to use;medium will sag after a short while and is much harder to work with ie to restrain or to tie properly etc.
The most important part of any fence is the strainers and props.Good 8 ft. strainers properly propped will leave fencing it a doddle.
Drive your strainers and both ends(plus ones on the bends or turns if any) and prop them.Then pull a line with plain wire from one end to the other and use this as a guide to drive the stakes.
Like was mentioned earlier,cut a lat to use as a height guide.Normally just then mark the lat with a marker as to the height of the various strands and walk along the fence and mark each stake and strainer.Saves wondering if a stake is up or down or if you use the wrong end of a tool to set the gaps.
Then just tie on the wire,strain and staple it to the marks.
DO NOT drive home the staples.

For dairy cows and calves
Yard entrance us dead straight line in from emriad.
Will not be using barbed wire lethal on internal fences.
I would like to see post and rail back on it but its too expensive.
Roadway down the field is a good 250m and has a turn 50 m out of yard.
Have loads of stakes here at 4m and don't think it looks that good.I prefer 10/12m with good tight wire

C0N0R

Greengrass1 wrote: »

For dairy cows and calves
Yard entrance us dead straight line in from emriad.
Will not be using barbed wire lethal on internal fences.
I would like to see post and rail back on it but its too expensive.
Roadway down the field is a good 250m and has a turn 50 m out of yard.
Have loads of stakes here at 4m and don't think it looks that good.I prefer 10/12m with good tight wire

I'd be inclined to agree, ten metres with two or three rows of good tight wire looks tidy. Love working with wire, my issue when it comes to fencing is getting the posts in straight with the sledge, im horrendous at it!

Greengrass1

C0N0R wrote: »

I'd be inclined to agree, ten metres with two or three rows of good tight wire looks tidy. Love working with wire, my issue when it comes to fencing is getting the posts in straight with the sledge, im horrendous at it!

Luckily enough we have a post driver. Getting the operator to drive them right is the hard part

paddysdream

Greengrass1 wrote: »

For dairy cows and calves
Yard entrance us dead straight line in from emriad.
Will not be using barbed wire lethal on internal fences.
I would like to see post and rail back on it but its too expensive.
Roadway down the field is a good 250m and has a turn 50 m out of yard.
Have loads of stakes here at 4m and don't think it looks that good.I prefer 10/12m with good tight wire

With 2 strands of plain then 10m is plenty close.Any closer is not really necessary.
Good egg insulators are worth the price rather than the cheap plastic cr*p sold in a lot of shops.
HT. wire is essential for a fence like that.It won't sag and should hold its tension for as long as the stakes are good.
Make sure and put strainers(not stakes) on any turns.
Prob. cost well less than 2 euro per meter and do it yourself(that's off the top of my head)whilst post and rail would be in the region of 16 to 20 per meter supplied and erected.
Havent fenced much this year but will root out a few prices later to give you a better idea.
No bother to tighten with a hayes type strainer.Nice neat knots on the ends with the excess cut off makes a job look 100% better.
Tie short wire to egg first and make off,then tie to strainer.Staple at correct height.Tie on egg at far end as well.Run on the insulators on the fence wire.Then tie fence line to egg,roll out wire(pig of a job without a jenny!) and strain.Tie to end egg and remove strainer.Nail on insulators at marks on stakes.Use the large inch staples so as not to crush the insulators.Job done.
Reading that mightn't be the clearest but simple enough to do.


Keeping stakes straight is part of the secret and costs big money to find out!!
Just pull line from end to end making sure to keep correct side of intermediate strainers and drive your stakes to that.Secret is to start straight and if stake is going sideways then straighten it before you have it driven home.Sometimes no matter how much you try it will hit a stone or something else so then move it a foot either way and try again.Lots of practice needed to have a fence you look down and can only see one stake ie the one nearest to you!

Nekarsulm

For the actual entrance its-self, concrete post and 3 rail looks great. If you don't get the levels right, and the curve, it will annoy you every time you lay eyes on it. Seven or eight lengths of rail is plenty, and gives a great "permanent" look about a place. Had treated post and rail here, and the life span is disappointing, in my opinion.

trixi2011

For keeping the fence straight drive strainer on each end of the fence. Grab a reel and roll it out between the 2 posts flick it and pull it tight and use it like a builders line for putting in the rest of the posts

paddysdream

trixi2011 wrote: »

For keeping the fence straight drive strainer on each end of the fence. Grab a reel and roll it out between the 2 posts flick it and pull it tight and use it like a builders line for putting in the rest of the posts

You mean temp. fencing wire?
Grand on a short piece but to do it right(and easiest way!) just use the ht. wire and when all stakes drove you just untie it and use it as one of the strands.
Ht fencing wire is grand for a line as you can strain it properly and won't normaly sag or blow too much in the wind

Greengrass1

Nekarsulm wrote: »

For the actual entrance its-self, concrete post and 3 rail looks great. If you don't get the levels right, and the curve, it will annoy you every time you lay eyes on it. Seven or eight lengths of rail is plenty, and gives a great "permanent" look about a place. Had treated post and rail here, and the life span is disappointing, in my opinion.

Have post and rail at road where it widens out.
Its only 15 yr old and in perfect nick. Will leave that there.
Rest is 30-40 yr old and rotted to bits. We have poly wire up to keep in cows and looks ****e.
As well as not keeping the sides mowed

Greengrass1

paddysdream wrote: »

You mean temp. fencing wire?
Grand on a short piece but to do it right(and easiest way!) just use the ht. wire and when all stakes drove you just untie it and use it as one of the strands.
Ht fencing wire is grand for a line as you can strain it properly and won't normaly sag or blow too much in the wind

Father always uses the soft wire.
Tighten it any way to hard. Break.
I'll have a job to get him to buy HT wire

Muckit

And don't dare try reel it out without a spinning Jenny.... trust me!! Beg borrow steal ....or make one up

Greengrass1

Muckit wrote: »

And don't dare try reel it out without a spinning Jenny.... trust me!! Beg borrow steal ....or make one up

Always meaning to get one. Hoor of a job to re wind up wire and it kinks up on ye

C0N0R

trixi2011 wrote: »

For keeping the fence straight drive strainer on each end of the fence. Grab a reel and roll it out between the 2 posts flick it and pull it tight and use it like a builders line for putting in the rest of the posts

Ah ive no problem getting the posts in a line, getting them all standing straight would be a slightly different story!

Greengrass1

Going to start ripping down old railing soon I think could be a week or more at it roughly 250 m of the stuff.
Stepped roadway and yard enntrance today. 500m
Will possibly get the 100 stakes with a few stakes broken here and there they won't be left in yard long

visatorro

have about 2km of fencing to do here. am trying to persuade older generation to invest in post driver. write to santy was the reply i got!!

Greengrass1

visatorro wrote: »

have about 2km of fencing to do here. am trying to persuade older generation to invest in post driver. write to santy was the reply i got!!

Are you wanting do it in bits and pieces? I know a man who will come fence with ye for a week or what ever. He brings all tools required inc post driver and you supply stakes wire and tractor and could do job that way?
No neighbour that would go halves?
Were lucky here we got a second hand malone for 700e bit worn but a new,rope and it does a good job

visatorro

I'm abit away from your country!! have three sections where posts just need to be replaced as they are rotten (20 years old). new malone is 2400 I think was gonna buy it do my bits and pieces whenever it suited and sell post driver then. haven't really looked into going halves with anyone

agriman27

I really like using good railway sleepers for end posts,I usually dig a hole to set them in, I find they keep straight longer than driven with post driver would you lads agree

MfMan

visatorro wrote: »

I'm abit away from your country!! have three sections where posts just need to be replaced as they are rotten (20 years old). new malone is 2400 I think was gonna buy it do my bits and pieces whenever it suited and sell post driver then. haven't really looked into going halves with anyone

You'd be lucky to get a new Malone for that, more like 3k, which is what most of them are going for. Rainbow Eng. in Ferbane a bit cheaper I think.

Greengrass1

visatorro wrote: »

I'm abit away from your country!! have three sections where posts just need to be replaced as they are rotten (20 years old). new malone is 2400 I think was gonna buy it do my bits and pieces whenever it suited and sell post driver then. haven't really looked into going halves with anyone

Where you situated? This guy travels a good distance.
Tbh I'd never consider selling post driver gets used good few times throughout the ye here

FineFilly

my hubby does fencing PDM timber is in Kill ,Co Kildare,if you have any questions just ask

Sami23

Bought couple of rolls of 3ft heavy gauge sheep wire for 120 euros. Was that ok price wise ?

Nekarsulm

120 each? If you got 3 rolls of 3 foot heavy sheep at 40 each, they're hot! 100 metre roll around here is 115 euro

frazzledhome

visatorro wrote: »

I'm abit away from your country!! have three sections where posts just need to be replaced as they are rotten (20 years old). new malone is 2400 I think was gonna buy it do my bits and pieces whenever it suited and sell post driver then. haven't really looked into going halves with anyone

One thing you'll never sell:)

Sami23

Nekarsulm wrote: »

120 each? If you got 3 rolls of 3 foot heavy sheep at 40 each, they're hot! 100 metre roll around here is 115 euro

No 120 each