Questions you think are too stupid to ask!

toastedpickles

Seems the more appropriate place to put this

As the title suggests, ask a stupid question and hopefully someone will answer it, everyone wins

So i'll start

I've never charged/jumped a battery, so how do you go about doing it properly?

tossy

To charge a battery you first have to catch it breaking the law,then you'll need to call the guards. The guards will actually charge it,as a civilian you can't charge it.

Jumping one is easy,it's all in the run up.

toastedpickles

tossy wrote: »

To charge a battery you first have to catch it breaking the law,then you'll need to call the guards. The guards will actually charge it,as a civilian you can't charge it.

Jumping one is easy,it's all in the run up.

Don't forget i know where you live :pac:

mphalo1

put the black lead to the - on the battery then the red to the + , then plug the charger in .. when charged do it opposite direction by unplugging the charger then unclip the red then the black that way the battery won't explode which can happen

toastedpickles

mphalo1 wrote: »

put the black lead to the - on the battery then the red to the + , then plug the charger in .. when charged do it opposite direction by unplugging the charger then unclip the red then the black that way the battery won't explode which can happen

Super!

So your turn!

nd

How the hell do you get the brake fluid filter out of a 02-07 corolla? You'd imagine it just fits into the reservoir and lifts out. But I've tried pulling it out with my fingers, a screwdriver, a dart, a pliers. But it won't come out!

nd

And my next stupid question. If you've removed your drop links, is that an nct fail?

toastedpickles

nd wrote: »

And my next stupid question. If you've removed your drop links, is that an nct fail?

Indeed, it would also wreck the car, they act as a support

mphalo1

nct fail fella ,PS best of luck getting that filter out lol

El Vino

I need to charge my battery urgently, I am able to access the red + pole but the black negative one is totally inaccessible. I can see where it is connected to the body of the car but cannot remove the bolt holding it in place.

If I disconnect the red lead can I connect the + pole to the charger and the - charger connector to the bolt where it is connected to the car body and still charge the battery.

Thanks in advance for your help EV

nd

Yep. You con connect the negative to anywhere on the car body where you can get good contact.

visual

El Vino wrote: »

I need to charge my battery urgently, I am able to access the red + pole but the black negative one is totally inaccessible. I can see where it is connected to the body of the car but cannot remove the bolt holding it in place.

If I disconnect the red lead can I connect the + pole to the charger and the - charger connector to the bolt where it is connected to the car body and still charge the battery.

Thanks in advance for your help EV

Negative from charger to engine or any metal body part not covered with paint will be fine

Xenophile

Take yourself around to a few Motor Factors and tell them that you want to buy a set of Jump Leads and tell them you have never used them before, see will anyone offer to come out and lift the bonnet and help you. At least you will get some idea of the most helpful and probably the most friendly motor factor in your area.

nd

So what are the dangers of letting your brake discs get significantly below the manufacturers minimum disc thickness?

colm_mcm

nd wrote: »

So what are the dangers of letting your brake discs get significantly below the manufacturers minimum disc thickness?

Then

toastedpickles

Good lord! :eek:

mphalo1

ive seen it all now fcukz sake haha

Esel

The second one is a work of art! Once it is mounted on a wall...

Fit a clock mechanism and it is just a quirky clock though.

nd

colm_mcm wrote: »

Then

I know that probably wasn't intended as a serious answer. But for example my haynes manual tells me the discs should be replaced at 23mm. Mine are below that but still very far from getting down to the "spokes".

mphalo1

if there past what the manual states as min thickness then change them , dont skimp on such important components even just for your own safety .

TheCoolWay

The spare tyre in my car is the completely wrong wheel that fits my car, previous owner never had to use it.

So I want to grab a cheap rim second hand.

How do I identify the correct one I need? Will I just be looking for one with the same tyre size do? e.g. 195 / 65 R15?

mphalo1

TheCoolWay wrote:

How do I identify the correct one I need? Will I just be looking for one with the same tyre size do? e.g. 195 / 65 R15?

yes and measure the distance between the lug but holes and how many eg 100mm x 100 mm 4 stud ( holes) or like 115x115 5 stud or whatever the case may be, and measure center to center and straight across not diagonal

mphalo1

best bet just going to a breakers yard you'd get one for next to nothing

Skyhawk1990

Any tips for getting at the rear brake hoses on a 2000 peugeot 206? Been trying for an age but they're so awkward and fiddly to get at, I've only managed to get one side of one of them off.

monty_python

I bought my first car 3 weeks ago. It's a 98 peougot 306

When I first got it the radio would play when I turned the key put it would stop playing once I started the enguine. Now it won't play at all
I pulled it out once to see if any wires where lose but none are.

Any ideas??

mphalo1

monty_python wrote:

When I first got it the radio would play when I turned the key put it would stop playing once I started the enguine. Now it won't play at all I pulled it out once to see if any wires where lose but none are.

for starters it should of turned off when you turn off the ignition so its defo wired wrong now its probably blew a fuse , you would need a multi meter to find out what's going on there, no point in having a go at fixing it till you get one of them.

mphalo1

sorry I miss read , either way you need a multi meter to find out what's going wrong , to find out is there power going to the radio would be a good place to start and check all fuses ,hope this helps ,I can post up what each color wire is for if you are stuck

_Kaiser_

OK my turn..

Do all Irish A6's (2004+ C6 model) have brake pad wear sensors/warnings? If I recall right my Passat did anyway.

Last time I got the tyres changed I got advised they all needed changing (a service they also coincidentally offer) but no warnings, no squealing or grinding sounds and the brakes seem to work just fine.

Upselling?

Interslice

nd wrote: »

I know that probably wasn't intended as a serious answer. But for example my haynes manual tells me the discs should be replaced at 23mm. Mine are below that but still very far from getting down to the "spokes".

Not enough disc to dissipate/store the heat I was told.

TallGlass

If any parts of the car I would never mess around with it is the cars tires or breaks/breaking system. If the cars moving and things go wrong you will depend on both too stop the car. Tires are the last thing between you and the road make sure there more than half decent.

TouchingVirus

_Kaiser_ wrote: »

OK my turn..

Do all Irish A6's (2004+ C6 model) have brake pad wear sensors/warnings? If I recall right my Passat did anyway.

Last time I got the tyres changed I got advised they all needed changing (a service they also coincidentally offer) but no warnings, no squealing or grinding sounds and the brakes seem to work just fine.

Upselling?

Pads don't have to squeak or grind before you change them though. Ideally you'd do it before they get to the stage where the backplate is grinding the surface of the disc. They are possibly upselling. You should ask to see the current pads and a fresh set. Then you can compare the two and make a judgement call yourself.

TheCoolWay wrote: »

The spare tyre in my car is the completely wrong wheel that fits my car, previous owner never had to use it.

So I want to grab a cheap rim second hand.

How do I identify the correct one I need? Will I just be looking for one with the same tyre size do? e.g. 195 / 65 R15?

Maybe, have a read here. If you have the room go for a full-size spare and not a space-saver skinny wheel; the latter are usually limited to 80km/h. You could visit a breaker's yard and get a spare for your exact model too.

nd wrote: »

I know that probably wasn't intended as a serious answer. But for example my haynes manual tells me the discs should be replaced at 23mm. Mine are below that but still very far from getting down to the "spokes".

Brake discs that are too thin can shatter, warp or overheat. The first two being very dangerous and the latter causing your brakes to fade and become much less effective, so pretty dangerous. Get some new discs, they're cheaper than a coffin.


My turn now: How do you remove rusted bleed valves from a set of calipers without stripping the nut? I'm putting my old Peugeot 206 back on the road for my sister so I set about bleeding the braking system. I stripped the bleed valve on the front offside caliper with a ring spanner. I bought two second hand calipers last week which were pretty rusty, much like my own current ones. Despite getting the two brake hoses and other bleed valve off using some good old penetrating lub and a vice grips I stripped the bleed screw on the offside caliper. I'm at a loss now, what do I need to do to get a caliper with a bleed screw that isn't stuck?

joujoujou

TouchingVirus wrote: »

[...] How do you remove rusted bleed valves from a set of calipers without stripping the nut? [...]

It's not easy, but still possible. The best option is to heat them valves very much (to become red). The problem is, you have to find someone who has this:



After that, let them cool down and try to remove them.

mphalo1

you can buy replacement bleed nipples In the motorfactors

joujoujou

You can of course.

But you won't replace them if you break old ones apart upon removal attempt.

djimi

Seems an appropriate place to ask this, as someone who really should know the answer!

When checking the oil, what is the best time to do it? I have heard conflicting reports ranging from when the engine is warm, to when the engine is properly cold (ie the next morning), to everything and anything in between. I tend to leave it about an hour or so after the engine has been switched off; is this correct, or in reality does it really make much of a difference?

TouchingVirus

djimi wrote: »

Seems an appropriate place to ask this, as someone who really should know the answer!

When checking the oil, what is the best time to do it? I have heard conflicting reports ranging from when the engine is warm, to when the engine is properly cold (ie the next morning), to everything and anything in between. I tend to leave it about an hour or so after the engine has been switched off; is this correct, or in reality does it really make much of a difference?

Check your car manual, it will have the information. On my last car the advice was check when cold, on my current car the manual states to do it when the engine is warm (i.e. after a drive, leave for 10 minutes and then check). It can make a minor difference and prevent you overfilling.

joujoujou wrote: »

It's not easy, but still possible. The best option is to heat them valves very much (to become red). After that, let them cool down and try to remove them.

Will the residiual heat not ruin the caliper seal?

monty_python

mphalo1 wrote: »

sorry I miss read , either way you need a multi meter to find out what's going wrong , to find out is there power going to the radio would be a good place to start and check all fuses ,hope this helps ,I can post up what each color wire is for if you are stuck

i think ill just bring it into a garage and get it looked at

0O0

How dodgy is it to use a different type of coolant from the manual?

Mine asks for a specific red one but the fella in the shop said most generic red ones are grand!?!

joujoujou

TouchingVirus wrote: »

[...]



Will the residiual heat not ruin the caliper seal?

It never did - that's the way my mechanic showed me years ago and never let me down.

The purpose of the whole thing is to heat valve up as much as possible - once it's hot it expands slightly, "pushing" caliper around, so making a bit of room. My English is not good enough to explain that appropriately.

nd

So manuals ect for my car call for oil changes on my car every 5k miles. Castrols website says my car oil changes should be every 15000 km / 12 months.

I want my car to basically last forever as I don't see myself ever with the money to replace it and imo the engine is currently in excellent condition as it burns very little oil.

5 litres of oil last time cost me 55 euro so who wants to replace it prematurely.

So is 5k miles overkill?

joujoujou

I'd follow car's manual rather than castrol's advice.

Especially castrol has quite mixed reputation.

For 1.4 VVTI - fully synth. 5W30 A5/B5 A1/B1.

Some 35 notes for 5 ltrs in micksgarage.

mphalo1

no the more you change it the better 5k is perfect

toastedpickles

More battery related questions, does it matter which terminal goes on first? and you can coat them in copper grease as far as i remember?

joujoujou

toastedpickles wrote: »

More battery related questions, does it matter which terminal goes on first?

Depends. Sometimes doesn't matter, sometimes does.

toastedpickles wrote: »

and you can coat them in copper grease as far as i remember?

Yes.

Esel

joujoujou wrote: »

Depends. Sometimes doesn't matter, sometimes does.

Could you be a bit less cryptic, grasshopper? :pac:

dooroy

For safety reasons its best to fit the positive terminal first - then the earth terminal . If you fit the positive first and you happen to touch the spanner of the engine/body - no harm done . If you fit the negative first and then touch the engine/body when fitting the positive - you can have sparks flying.
I always use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on electrical connections ,battery terminals etc . I read a long time ago that you should not use grease as it can chemically react with the lead in the poles.

JohnBoy26

nd wrote: »

So manuals ect for my car call for oil changes on my car every 5k miles. Castrols website says my car oil changes should be every 15000 km / 12 months.

I want my car to basically last forever as I don't see myself ever with the money to replace it and imo the engine is currently in excellent condition as it burns very little oil.

5 litres of oil last time cost me 55 euro so who wants to replace it prematurely.

So is 5k miles overkill?

What manual says 5k miles nd? My manual says 15k km or 9k miles. It did for other Toyotas I owned too. I don't leave it go that long though, I usually change the oil and filter at around 7k miles.

What kind of oil are you getting for €55 euro? that sounds a bit on the expensive side tbh. Halfords has Mobil for a good bit less than that.

http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/car-engine-oil/mobil-super-3000-x1-formula-fe-5w-30-oil-5l

Esel

Oil changes after nK miles/km, or every 12 months (because low journeys, under that limit, can be much harder on the engine than high miles in a shorter time).

Use it or lose it, and all that.

CJhaughey

I have never heard of an engine being ruined from having too many oil changes, however I know of plenty that have died from too few oil changes.
IMO 15k is a bit too long between changes and the current trend towards upwards of 20k+ is designed to get the car through the warranty period and not much more.

dooroy

CJhaughey wrote: »

I have never heard of an engine being ruined from having too many oil changes, however I know of plenty that have died from too few oil changes.
Very true - and I think that longer intervals cause people to forget about it altogether . When you see an oil filter that has practically rusted through it has to be there a long time for that to happen .

nd

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

What manual says 5k miles nd? My manual says 15k km or 9k miles. It did for other Toyotas I owned too. I don't leave it go that long though, I usually change the oil and filter at around 7k miles.

What kind of oil are you getting for €55 euro? that sounds a bit on the expensive side tbh. Halfords has Mobil for a good bit less than that.

http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/car-engine-oil/mobil-super-3000-x1-formula-fe-5w-30-oil-5l

It says 5k miles or 6 months on my haynes manual #4791

The oil was this stuff

http://www.intrexcarparts.ie/car_accesories/engine_oils/motul_engine_oils/full_synthetic/p489. It was that price after delivery.

Thanks for that link.