Getting a slow puncture permanantly fixed with a tube?

cerastes

I'd a slow puncture which I got repaired, no leak could be found but the tyre and maybe the inside of the rim was coated in something like a glue like substance as I recal, some was between the tyre and rim so when it dried so I guess this dries as a rubber sealant.

The slow leak is back again, but its marginally faster now and its getting to be a right pain refilling it.
the tread on the tyre is still very good, no apparent damage on the tyre, no air was seen leaking while the tyre was under water and rotated in a small tank, so Id prefer get it repaired using a tube.
Is a tube offered or possible in tyre installers/puncture repairers.
I havent asked yet, if it is and I get it done, it would still be cheaper than replacing the tyre and as I suspect the rim (alloy) may be causing the problem? crack somewhere, replacing the tyre wouldnt do anything and just be a waste of a potentially good tyre and money.

So, tubes for car tyres? Id rather wear this tyre into the ground, and it matches the one on the opposite side.

pete4130

You can do it but it isn't recommended. The tube can chaff against the tyre, cause heat, friction and fail, especially if the pressure in the tubed wheel is lower than it should be. Tubes tend to let go suddenly rather than leak slowly like a regular tubeless wheel and tyre. So imagine your doing 120kmh and the tube decides to fail. You could regret your cheap fix then.

cerastes

I see what you're saying, my concern is if the leak is in the rim then replacing the tyre will be a waste of money and time which I'll still end up having to pay to get fixed.

the tyre isnt leaking instantly, I thought french powder (talc like substance) was used to rub over tubes where they meet tyres to prevent chafing.

So the tube would be to stop this slow leak, which is annoying to refill every few days.

I may look into pricing a new alloy too anyway.

toyotaavensis

Most modern tyres are tubeless. Putting a tube in is dangerous. I suggest you have another go with a water bath and try to find the leak.

Supergurrier

Modern tyres are designed to be tubeless, patch or plug to fix it.

This happened to my brother, turned out the alloy was warped so it periodically let out the air from the tyre.

fmcg_scribe

cerastes wrote: »

I'd a slow puncture which I got repaired, no leak could be found but the tyre and maybe the inside of the rim was coated in something like a glue like substance as I recal, some was between the tyre and rim so when it dried so I guess this dries as a rubber sealant.

The slow leak is back again, but its marginally faster now and its getting to be a right pain refilling it.
the tread on the tyre is still very good, no apparent damage on the tyre, no air was seen leaking while the tyre was under water and rotated in a small tank, so Id prefer get it repaired using a tube.
Is a tube offered or possible in tyre installers/puncture repairers.
I havent asked yet, if it is and I get it done, it would still be cheaper than replacing the tyre and as I suspect the rim (alloy) may be causing the problem? crack somewhere, replacing the tyre wouldnt do anything and just be a waste of a potentially good tyre and money.

So, tubes for car tyres? Id rather wear this tyre into the ground, and it matches the one on the opposite side.

Has paint flecking on the inside rim been ruled out as the root cause of the loss of air pressure? For alloy wheels, this problem is not uncommon. Usually, the only solution is to have the wheel refurbed - using a wire brush to remove the flecks of paint does not solve the problem.

Marcusm

I had this on the Beemer I bought last year; had it serviced, checked, all new tyres etc. one of the rears started losing air (on a run to Barcelona) requiring constant refilling. Turned out to be alloy requiring replacement. 2 weeks later, same problem on the other rear. Both times the tyre fitters missed it despite being asked to check for everything - would gladly have paid for new alloys as car was well priced (£22k for 4 year old F02 750Li). Got the second alloy for free including fitting 250 miles away from the service centre.

The lesson I've learned since then is to worry about modern alloys as much as the tyres.

cerastes

fmcg_scribe wrote: »

Has paint flecking on the inside rim been ruled out as the root cause of the loss of air pressure? For alloy wheels, this problem is not uncommon. Usually, the only solution is to have the wheel refurbed - using a wire brush to remove the flecks of paint does not solve the problem.

This I dont know,
I know putting it in a tub as was done didnt show any leaks, which didnt make it clear what the problem was, I had the same problem on the other front wheel and this was fixed and stayed so.
If I can get the same alloy secondhand and it looks clean (undamaged) I'll pick one up, failing that, I might try pick up a full set of another alloy that will fit (second hand). Ive seen some with tyres on, although I dont think this is a good indicator necessarily as mine kept the air in before when the tyre was off, only to lose it in a few days and then over 12 hours when it was on the car.

I dont really want to put a tube in as I know car tyres are (for the most part, maybe excluding some classics?) designed tubeless, but its as it was going down and more rapidly recently all the time despite being repaired.
I just dont want to buy a replacement tyre for it to keep happening, I'm using the spare at the moment (which is fullsize) so have time to sort it out but was looking for ideas

fmcg_scribe

cerastes wrote: »

This I dont know,
I know putting it in a tub as was done didnt show any leaks, which didnt make it clear what the problem was, I had the same problem on the other front wheel and this was fixed and stayed so.
If I can get the same alloy secondhand and it looks clean (undamaged) I'll pick one up, failing that, I might try pick up a full set of another alloy that will fit (second hand). Ive seen some with tyres on, although I dont think this is a good indicator necessarily as mine kept the air in before when the tyre was off, only to lose it in a few days and then over 12 hours when it was on the car.

I dont really want to put a tube in as I know car tyres are (for the most part, maybe excluding some classics?) designed tubeless, but its as it was going down and more rapidly recently all the time despite being repaired.
I just dont want to buy a replacement tyre for it to keep happening, I'm using the spare at the moment (which is fullsize) so have time to sort it out but was looking for ideas

I'd like to think that any competent fitter would be able to spot buckles and cracks in a wheel while removing or fitting a tyre. Sometimes, fitters can repair buckles (blow torch and hammer job). Sometimes, only a wheel refurb specialist can repair a buckle. If a buckle can't be repaired, the wheel is a goner. Cracks can be even more difficult to repair.

Assuming that there are no buckles or (hairline) cracks in the wheel, was the "glue like substance" removed? I'm not familiar with the protocols to be followed when fitting a new tyre after sealant was used to repair the previous tyre.

BrensBenz

Agree with concern about putting a tube into a tubeless tyre. I'm sure it has worked for some but they weren't designed to go together and tyres are safety critical.

Last month, BrensBenz had a slow puncture. Checked the valve with sudzy water - nothing! Huge amounts of sudzy water on the tyre-to-rim seal made everything clean but didn't find a leak. Took the wheel off to check the inner tyre-to-rim seals - nothing!
Rude words were heard as the wheel was refitted but then the Wheel Fairy made some sudzy water run down the rubber "filler tube" (valve at one end and tyre on the other) and, lo and behold, bubbles! This little tube was turnable so I turned it 90degrees or so with pliers and......all the wind has staying in the tyre since.

Not a permanent solution but, if it deflates again, at least I can help the tyre shop to find this easily fixable leak.

toyotaavensis

OP I dont know if this is a good idea but maybe you should consider putting a can of tyre goo into the tyre. I am not sure what the proper name for it is but they are the cans that new cars come with instead of a spare wheel.

cerastes

fmcg_scribe wrote: »

I'd like to think that any competent fitter would be able to spot buckles and cracks in a wheel while removing or fitting a tyre. Sometimes, fitters can repair buckles (blow torch and hammer job). Sometimes, only a wheel refurb specialist can repair a buckle. If a buckle can't be repaired, the wheel is a goner. Cracks can be even more difficult to repair.

Assuming that there are no buckles or (hairline) cracks in the wheel, was the "glue like substance" removed? I'm not familiar with the protocols to be followed when fitting a new tyre after sealant was used to repair the previous tyre.

They seem to be doing it quite fast, didnt notice much time looking at the inside of the rim, without wanting to appear as if Im looking over someones shoulder.
At the same time, doesnt appear buckled (its an alloy though) and no feel of vibrations or pulling through the steering.
The glue like substance was painted on around the rim and edges of the tyre.
the same glue/sealant stuff was painted on another tyre by another repairer that stayed fixed so Im guessing its standard in the tyre repair business, not sure if there was much to be removed or if it was even.

BrensBenz wrote: »

Agree with concern about putting a tube into a tubeless tyre. I'm sure it has worked for some but they weren't designed to go together and tyres are safety critical.

Last month, BrensBenz had a slow puncture. Checked the valve with sudzy water - nothing! Huge amounts of sudzy water on the tyre-to-rim seal made everything clean but didn't find a leak. Took the wheel off to check the inner tyre-to-rim seals - nothing!
Rude words were heard as the wheel was refitted but then the Wheel Fairy made some sudzy water run down the rubber "filler tube" (valve at one end and tyre on the other) and, lo and behold, bubbles! This little tube was turnable so I turned it 90degrees or so with pliers and......all the wind has staying in the tyre since.

Not a permanent solution but, if it deflates again, at least I can help the tyre shop to find this easily fixable leak.

I'll try that, maybe even get it replaced, the tube that holds the valve.
I took the valve out to have alook, seems ok, I'll pick a replacement up even though no air was coming from it when wet/underwater.

toyotaavensis wrote: »

OP I dont know if this is a good idea but maybe you should consider putting a can of tyre goo into the tyre. I am not sure what the proper name for it is but they are the cans that new cars come with instead of a spare wheel.

I'll have a look in a motor factors, Ive some for a bike but dont think it'd be enough, I always thought it get me out of bother with a flat on a bike but wondered would it cause a huge imbalance and was designed to be temporary measure.
Worth a try if one more repair doesnt work.

dgt

Please don't repair it with a tube. Look for the puncture and sort it.

Tubes with tubeless tyres leave them wallowy and floppy

cerastes

I'll drive on the fullsize spare until I can get it sorted rather than put a tube in it, thought it might be an option.

mgbgt1978

Mix up a good bit of washing-up liquid with water.
Place wheel flat on the ground.
Pour the sud's around the bead and wait 2/3 minutes.
Should be a lot of tiny bubbles wherever there is a leak.
If not, turn wheel over and try the other side.
Also pour some around the valve.
If you can find the leak a tyre fitter should be able to put a bit more sealant in that spot to sort it out.

The stuff that the tyre fitter put around the edge of the tyre is either 'mounting paste' (designed to help the tyre slide on to the rim more easily), or a sealant.....which, in this case anyway, isn't working.