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Newbie Advice

  • 13-06-2014 12:00pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭


    Hey I've spent the last few days reading the threads and have decided to take the plunge. Ive done some winbow shopping on Homebrewwest and the homebrewingcompany and have come up with a shopping list.

    2 Fermentation buckets homebrewwest.ie/brewferm-fermentation-bucket-30-litres-graduated-with-airlock-tap-and-bottle-filling-stick-1040-p.asp
    Hydrometre
    Paddle
    Caps
    Capper

    I am trying to start out as cheap as possible and I know I dont need 2 fermentation buckets but it sounds easier having the 2. My question is is there anything else I need to start out or is that enough to start?

    I am thinking of getting the Coopers Canadian Blonde and Ginger Beer to start out.

    Any advice appreciated


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    No need for a paddle IMO. That link includes a bottling stick. You wont need two of those, so one of the one you linked and one of these would do you.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Definitely get a paddle, IMO. You'll need to stir the hell out of the mixture as you put it together and a paddle is ideal. Get a trial jar and a spirit thermometer as well so you can take accurate gravity readings.

    If you're planning to transfer beer from one bucket to the other at any stage you will need a siphon too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Thanks for advice guys.

    Beernut is a siphon necessary was planning on transfering between buckets to do the batch priming but could I not just use the taps. I have added the trial jar to my shopping list. Will one of the adhesive thermometers do or would I need a regular one(I havent read up on the testing side of things yet).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    I use a tube with the taps. It's bad news to just pour between them using the taps on their own as the splashing introduces oxygen which can add off flavours towards the end of a brew (oxygen at the start = good, at the end = bad).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Thanks Kannie. Siphon adding to shopping list.

    Another question for my first brew probably Coopers Canadian Blonde thehomebrewcompany recommends using 1kg of spraymalt vs using brewing sugar, will this make a huge difference to the end product as the spraymalt will cost nearly 2/3 the price of the kit or am I getting this wrong.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,309 ✭✭✭✭alastair


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Definitely get a paddle, IMO. You'll need to stir the hell out of the mixture as you put it together and a paddle is ideal.

    I opted to use a long paint/plaster mixer attachment for a cordless drill - ensures you get a thorough mix without much effort or time. Just needs to be sanitised like everything else that comes in contact with the beer. No infections to date.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Thanks Kannie. Siphon adding to shopping list.

    I don't like the siphon myself. You can get a plastic tube that you just attach to the tap. That's my preference. BeerNut loves his siphon. :)
    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Another question for my first brew probably Coopers Canadian Blonde thehomebrewcompany recommends using 1kg of spraymalt vs using brewing sugar, will this make a huge difference to the end product as the spraymalt will cost nearly 2/3 the price of the kit or am I getting this wrong.

    Spraymalt will result in a much nicer end product.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Will one of the adhesive thermometers do or would I need a regular one(I havent read up on the testing side of things yet).
    The adhesive ones are handy for keeping an eye on the temperature of the batch as a whole. To get accurate hydrometer readings you need to know the temperature of the sample, so a spirit thermometer is needed there. It's not essential, but it's worth having, IMO.
    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    thehomebrewcompany recommends using 1kg of spraymalt vs using brewing sugar, will this make a huge difference to the end product as the spraymalt will cost nearly 2/3 the price of the kit or am I getting this wrong.
    With kit brewing in general you get what you pay for, qualitywise. I would definitely recommend using spraymalt all the way in place of sugar. I would also avoid very pale kits like the Canadian Blonde or any of the "lagers", especially first time out. Darker beers -- ales and stouts -- work much better from kits and won't show mistakes as clearly as pale ones do.
    Khannie wrote: »
    BeerNut loves his siphon.
    Hate the bugger, but I trust it. Can't say the same about taps. Dirty things.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Was doing the Canadian Blonde as the girlfriend might drink that but wont go near the ales or stouts. Will probably start with ginger beer so and move on to a ale. There is no recommendation of what sugar/spraymalt to put with the ginger beer is there anything extra I should be getting with this kit.

    Going to put in my order over the weekend, hopefully wont take too long to come.

    Any other hints or tips would be great.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    There is no recommendation of what sugar/spraymalt to put with the ginger beer is there anything extra I should be getting with this kit.
    For any 1.7kg (single can) kit, use a kilo of spraymalt.
    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Any other hints or tips would be great.
    1. Never read the instructions. They'll steer you wrong on almost everything.
    2. Ignore the bubbler, it doesn't tell you anything useful.
    3. Don't rush the beer out of the fermenter. Give it at least two weeks; four or five is fine too if you think it needs it.
    4. Make sure fermentation has stopped completely (ie your gravity readings are steady, several days apart) before you bottle.
    5. With every part of every piece of equipment ask "Is this sanitised?" before it touches wort or beer.
    6. DO NOT read the instructions.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    I think what he's trying to say is: The instructions are great




    /runs


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Khannie wrote: »
    The instructions are great
    You should definitely follow them, to the letter, for all your beers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭The One Doctor


    My advice - don't concern yourself too much about sanitisation, people freak over it but in 10 batches I haven't had a single off batch. You'd swear people were doing a combination of spacecraft construction and brain surgery they way they go on about it. Make sure the stuff you'll use is clean obviously, but don't arse around with bleach or anything like it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    My advice - don't concern yourself too much about sanitisation

    My advice is to ignore this advice. The disappointment of pouring a lost batch down the drain (I've had to do it twice) is cripping compared to the effort involved in sanitising properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 299 ✭✭Hingo


    My advice - don't concern yourself too much about sanitisation, people freak over it but in 10 batches I haven't had a single off batch. You'd swear people were doing a combination of spacecraft construction and brain surgery they way they go on about it. Make sure the stuff you'll use is clean obviously, but don't arse around with bleach or anything like it.

    IMO I think that is a conclusion each home-brewer should come to themselves. While I do agree people will freak over it the first few batches (Myself being one - the lengths I went to for my first batch..:pac:) there's still no harm being over cautious while one develops good sanitizing habits. You'd almost be better off having an over meticulous approach with sanitizing on your first batch than having an "ahh sure it'll be grand" approach, to only find you've spoiled the beer in 5 weeks time.

    A good tip if you're not using a no rinse sanitizer (Especially like VWP that usually comes with you're first equipment kit) is boil a kettle full of water (I let it boil twice, but I think that's my own OCD) - as soon as that is done , pour the boiling water into your plastic fermenter (DON'T DO IT IN A GLASS CARBOY OR SIMILAR) along the sides of the fermenter. Put the lid on over half way, leaving a small bit open for steam to get out. Carefully swirl the boiling water around the fermenter, having the open segment of the lid facing away from you and your hands as steam will come out of this rapidly, using the boiling water to rinse and sterilize anything you missed the first time around.

    Oh and in case the lads didn't make it clear, Don't follow the instructions!

    Let us know how you get on!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Thanks everyone. Just got my kit and gear I just need to empty some more bottles before I make the leap and brew my kit.

    I ended up getting reusable rubber bottle caps as they were a cheap alternative for the moment. Has anyone had experience with these? I plan on wrapping most of the caps in tape to ensure a seal for the first brew and leaving 1 or 2 without tape to test them. Is the only risk at this stage losing the carbonation or could the beer still get infected.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,329 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Khannie wrote: »
    My advice is to ignore this advice. The disappointment of pouring a lost batch down the drain (I've had to do it twice) is cripping compared to the effort involved in sanitising properly.

    reading these forums, a lot of brewers who are meticulous about sanitising still get the odd bad batch. Ive generally taken a fairly slack approach and haven't had any problems - I think luck plays quite a large part...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭Beanstalk


    Good luck with your brewing! :D

    I just started a couple of weeks ago two, brewed some St. peter's ruby red (amazing) and also some coopers' sparkling ale (conditioning as we speak).

    I have a couple of newbie questions too though if yous could help...(hope I haven't hijacked your thread OP)
    1. Wine
      I'm brewing Sadler's House Red, followed the instructions to the letter but somehow ended up with 25.5 litres instead of four, is this ok? Also, theres a sachet that says OAK (30mg) but there's no mention of it on the instructions or on where I should use it? Anyone know?
    2. Temperature for Beer
      I want to brew more Ruby Red Ale, but my heater is currently in the wine carboy. Do you think if I left the FV in the hotpress the beer would still ferment ok?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Hi Folks

    Well my first beer is brewing its a Silver Cap Burtons Bitter I did it up yesterday. I cant wait to taste it.

    I ended up using Milton to sanatise everything and then washed it down with cold water I hope this will be ok?

    It will probably be about 3 week before I can bottle it will this be an issue?

    Lastly has anyone experience with the reusable plastic caps are they any good?


    Thanks again for any help


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    It will probably be about 3 week before I can bottle it will this be an issue?
    That's fine. Just make sure you have consistent gravity readings over several days before you bottle, to be sure fermentation has finished. But in this weather, three weeks should be sufficient.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Thanks Beernut

    On the Fermentation Bucket I got there is no tap will it be ok to open the bucket to take samples for the gravity test I have seen people recommending to not open the bucket until the end. I know I will have to make sure anything I dip in is fully sanatised.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    will it be ok to open the bucket to take samples for the gravity test
    Yes. The lid is just there to stop stuff falling in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Just to keep anyone interested updated.

    I went for a basic fermentation bucket with none of the gigs and reels for my first brew, so when I got home last night the lid had popped up so I pushed it back down, I then repeated this 6 times before I went to bed, its very satisfying knowing the fermentation process has well and truely started.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Just to keep anyone interested updated.

    I went for a basic fermentation bucket with none of the gigs and reels for my first brew, so when I got home last night the lid had popped up so I pushed it back down, I then repeated this 6 times before I went to bed, its very satisfying knowing the fermentation process has well and truely started.

    You can leave it slightly ajar, once it's covered. If you keep pushing it down like that you'll probably carbonate it a bit (probably not good news during fermentation).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭groom


    Beanstalk wrote: »

    [*]Temperature for Beer
    I want to brew more Ruby Red Ale, but my heater is currently in the wine carboy. Do you think if I left the FV in the hotpress the beer would still ferment ok?
    [/LIST]

    Your house should probably be in or around 20 degrees at the moment. Mine is. So pretty much anywhere should be fine for fermenting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 911 ✭✭✭sharingan


    loyatemu wrote: »
    reading these forums, a lot of brewers who are meticulous about sanitising still get the odd bad batch. Ive generally taken a fairly slack approach and haven't had any problems - I think luck plays quite a large part...

    Once you get one contaminated batch, you massively increase the population of that kind of microbe in your brew area. You are more susceptible to a follow up infection.

    Your equipment can build up spores in hard to clean areas like airlocks, fermenter lids, airlock bungs, fermenter taps and siphon/bottling gear.

    Also while your beer may be fine coming out of the FV, it may not be fine going into the bottle, nothing is as annoying as dealing with a whole batch of gushers.

    Infection risk increases as you increase your brewing. Always have a spray bottle of No-Rinse sanitiser to hand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 299 ✭✭Hingo


    sharingan wrote: »
    Infection risk increases as you increase your brewing. Always have a spray bottle of No-Rinse sanitiser to hand.


    I really need some star-san:(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭Beanstalk


    Beanstalk wrote: »
    1. Wine
      I'm brewing Sadler's House Red, followed the instructions to the letter but somehow ended up with 25.5 litres instead of four, is this ok? Also, theres a sachet that says OAK (30mg) but there's no mention of it on the instructions or on where I should use it? Anyone know?

    This turned out just fine! :D 12.39% as well and really, really nice. I never thought home brewed wine could be as nice as more expensive bought bottles but it really is!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    My brew has now been in the fermentation bucket for just over 2 weeks. I took my first hydrometer reading today and I think it came out as 1.008 this seems very low have I done something wrong. I plan on taking another reading tomorrow and then bottling if it hasn't changed


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Kits will sometimes go that low. How did it taste?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,056 ✭✭✭Sparks43


    Tesco clairehall have a small range of kits and equipment

    No yeast though

    More4less Killbarrack are doing a milton substitute for 1.50 a litre

    This time tommorow i shall have my first brew on:D

    40 pints Bitter

    5 litres apple and blueberry cider (tesco not from concentrate)
    5 litres Apple And mango cider (same)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    It tastes bitter at the moment, so far not something I would enjoy drinking, will it improve. Also is there any way of increasing the alcohol content at this stage


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    will it improve.
    Most probably, depending on your taste in beer.
    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Also is there any way of increasing the alcohol content at this stage
    None that are advisable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭Carawaystick


    Sparks43 wrote: »

    More4less Killbarrack are doing a milton substitute for 1.50 a litre

    Here's a cheap Milton substitute
    Thin bleach
    The same volume water


    Or :use half as much thin bleach as Milton. It's half the strength of Milton


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,322 ✭✭✭ian_m


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Hi Folks

    Well my first beer is brewing its a Silver Cap Burtons Bitter I did it up yesterday. I cant wait to taste it.

    I ended up using Milton to sanatise everything and then washed it down with cold water I hope this will be ok?

    It will probably be about 3 week before I can bottle it will this be an issue?

    Lastly has anyone experience with the reusable plastic caps are they any good?


    Thanks again for any help

    If you are talking about these yes they are fine
    https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/coopers-pet-caps-25-pack-p-971.html

    Wouldn't reuse the caps that come with any normal drinks bottles though. For the sake of peace of mind I use the Coopers ones on my plastic bottles. Eventually you should make your way towards glass fliptops. Reusable, environmentally friendly and hold the fizz in when resealed better than plastic and make bottling day that bit easier to bear.

    Good luck


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Well my first batch of English bitter has been in the bottle for over 1 week now I never knew 2 weeks could take this long. My next batch already in the fermenter is a Turbo Cider with a summer berry juice thrown in, which should be perfect for electric picnic


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 299 ✭✭Hingo


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    I never knew 2 weeks could take this long.
    We've all been there!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Will the current heat adversely affect the fermentation of my cider. Im keeping it in my coolest room but its all nearly the same at this stage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,300 ✭✭✭PixelTrawler


    Sorry to Hijack... but did my first batch at last weekend. An extract stout kit from Home Brew Company. This one. https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/hbc-extract-extra-irish-stout-23-litres-p-1729.html

    I was worried in the heat, that it would be too much. I have it in a dark place under the stairs but its still 23-24c all the time. I thought it might kill the yeast.

    Anyway... I just did a test and its working away fine. In fact I think its stopped fermenting already but I need to do further tests again.

    Temp Corrected (for 24c to 20c) http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv_calculator.php
    Original: 1.051 Specific Gravity
    Final: 1.011 Specific Gravity

    Alcohol By Weight: 4.2 %
    Alcohol By Volume: 5.3 %

    So should I bottle it soon? I had a quick taste and it was really nice, which I'm surprised at so soon. I did try the wort just to see when I made it - my god it was horrific. Amazing the transformation.
    Oh and how long in the bottles usually for stout? 2-4 weeks or so?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    Will the current heat adversely affect the fermentation of my cider.
    Wouldn't have thought so.
    So should I bottle it soon?
    I'd give it at least two weeks in the fermenter.
    Oh and how long in the bottles usually for stout? 2-4 weeks or so?
    Yep, same as any beer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭Carawaystick


    Oh and how long in the bottles usually for stout? 2-4 weeks or so?

    Usually stout improves with age, the longer the better,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭calnand


    I made this back in March. I tried the bottles after two weeks, but it was still very young tasting. I would definitely leave it 4-6 weeks. I have a few bottles left so I must make it again soon


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    So I tried a bottle last night not really drinkable. There was still a very bitter after taste and there wasnt much of a flavour to enjoy. Its been in the bottles for 2 and a half weeks is there still hope for it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    Ah yeah, give it another while. Is it not sweet enough perhaps?

    edit: I see from the other thread that you're taking a test from the fermenting bucket? That always tastes filthy. It needs *at least* two weeks in the bottle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Khannie wrote: »
    Ah yeah, give it another while. Is it not sweet enough perhaps?

    edit: I see from the other thread that you're taking a test from the fermenting bucket? That always tastes filthy. It needs *at least* two weeks in the bottle.

    I added 1kg of brew enhancer, which the guy i bought from said would be enough at the brew stage. I then primed each 500ml bottle with tea spoon of sugar. I would think it would be sweet enough after all this.

    I took the test from the fermentation bucket but everything was sterilised. Its been in the bottle now for over 2 weeks and there has only been a slight improvement in the taste from when I bottled.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    NewCorkLad wrote: »
    I added 1kg of brew enhancer, which the guy i bought from said would be enough at the brew stage. I then primed each 500ml bottle with tea spoon of sugar. I would think it would be sweet enough after all this.

    Not at all, unfortunately. It's no wonder that's not nice.

    The sugar you added has been fermented out so all that sweetness has gone. The brew enhancer adds dextrose (also all fermented out, so no sweetness) and maltodextrin (not fermented, but doesn't add sweetness according to wikipedia). You need to add something that wont ferment. The best bet is usually splenda, but it doesn't dissolve well in the glass. in this instance I'd say pop 3 tesco everyday sweeteners or the lidl "cologran" into a pint glass and pour the cider on top. Wait for them to dissolve (about a minute) then drink. Add another one if you want it very sweet.

    Cider usually benefits from longer in the bottle. 2 weeks is the balls to the wall bare minimum IMO.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    Khannie wrote: »
    Not at all, unfortunately. It's no wonder that's not nice.

    The sugar you added has been fermented out so all that sweetness has gone. The brew enhancer adds dextrose (also all fermented out, so no sweetness) and maltodextrin (not fermented, but doesn't add sweetness according to wikipedia). You need to add something that wont ferment. The best bet is usually splenda, but it doesn't dissolve well in the glass. in this instance I'd say pop 3 tesco everyday sweeteners or the lidl "cologran" into a pint glass and pour the cider on top. Wait for them to dissolve (about a minute) then drink. Add another one if you want it very sweet.

    Cider usually benefits from longer in the bottle. 2 weeks is the balls to the wall bare minimum IMO.


    Sorry Khannie we got our wires crossed. I have a british bitter in the bottle that I brewed a few weeks ago and has now been in the bottle for 2 weeks. Doesnt taste nice and very bitter after taste.

    My turbo cider is still in the fermentation bucket should be bottling that early next week. I have 2 litres of apple juice if my order arrives or the aldi version of splenda to prime with if I have to bottle from the fermentation bucket.

    My main concern at the moment is my bitter, I havent tasted the cider yet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    AAAah right. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 961 ✭✭✭NewCorkLad


    You had me very worried at the start of the post.


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