New Slatted Shed

19driver83

Building a new slatted shed this year. I was planning to build the shed as per the Teagasc example on their website.

http://www.teagasc.ie/advisory/farm_management/buildings/animal_housing/estimating_farm_building_costs.asp

I am going to put sliding doors at each side.

However, I am wondering whether to put in a meal trough at the back or not?

If I don't, I don't think there is enough head space at front for all cattle if feeding meal.

Do people think it is better to make the shed wider (more eyes) and less deep and forget about meal trough. I don't think there would be a major cost difference, wondering what people think.

dzer2

Put in the meal trough you never know what you will be doing in yrs to come

Reggie.

dzer2 wrote: »

Put in the meal trough you never know what you will be doing in yrs to come

+1

dminor123

What size are u building and what's it costing as I'm about to put up a3 bay 47x 40 and was wondering what's it going to cost me ?

severeoversteer

put in the meal trough for the love of god,

im kicking myself I didn't in the shed I built in 2012

19driver83

Only starting to clear site so don't know cost yet!

Fermec2

Do you think its Worth waiting for the Grant? .. Supposed to be Details coming out in September, According to my Adviser anyway.

Miname

I wouldnt put in a meal trough. halved twin wall piping hinged to swing over the feed barrier. connected and removed if need be and cheap to do.

Farmer Pudsey

Have you other slatted sheds or is this your first shed. If it is the only shed you will have I modify to include Crush and a pen for sick animals etc. I think a double tank is a waste. I go 5 bay and 16' slats. I consider an area at back og slats if no other shed with crush and holding pen. will not cost arm and a leg.

Zr105

Best design of a shed I've seen yet is a double tank with feed barriers at each side, ok it means 2 feed passages but if you could put in the likes of the concrete U troughs you would only need to gravel the tractor run.

It had a central wall that basically split it down the middle into 2 seperate bits. The wall was also very important as it acted as a wind brake.

It made it simpler than a small double sided shed as the roof was the same size but it meant only having to dig out and pour one tank.

It wont suit every location as it needs shelter from the prevailing wind whereas a single shed would normally just be built facing away from the prevailing wind, i will say though it was definitly a nice open airy shed and had no chance of becoming stuffy

Sami23

Miname wrote: »

I wouldnt put in a meal trough. halved twin wall piping hinged to swing over the feed barrier. connected and removed if need be and cheap to do.

That sounds handy, any chance of a few pics ????????

severeoversteer

Sami23 wrote: »

That sounds handy, any chance of a few pics ????????

i find that twin wall piping is a disaster for meal feeding, they split within no time and if you have them out in the field a beast will make ribbons of it and the cores will fill with water and the rotten nuts in the cores will stink out the place and the cattle will turn up their nose at the meal

I have wasted more twin wall pipes by cutting them in half

they also don't hold enough either

19driver83

Any pics of what ye talking about lads?
Would be much appreciated.

gerryirl

hi

Have anyone cost prices for sheds yet. I'm thinking about adding on. Whats it costing per bay with a tank

TITANIUM.

gerryirl wrote: »

hi

Have anyone cost prices for sheds yet. I'm thinking about adding on. Whats it costing per bay with a tank

I've a similar project coming up here. There are so many variables. somewhere between 10 and 15k a bay depending on situation.
Is there any talk of grants for same?
Be it young farmer or new entrants?

Miname

i'll have a 4 bay (2 mixing points)up with lye back area. lean too style with canopy and 2 sliding doors for 24k plus the bells and whistles. Doing a fair share of the gunthering in my spare time.

Farmer Pudsey

Not sure if I would wait for grant, prices rising all the time and grant spec will add to price. If using a contractor for complete job I be costing now as there prices will climb the most. Last year a 4 bay shed completed by a contractor would have cost 25-30K I imagine that this is climbing all the time.


10-15/bay sound expensive and gives a varible of 20K on a 4 bay shed. IMO at 40K a 4 bay shed would be expensive. Things to remember that extra size in tanks is often really only costing the price of the concrete and steel. A 3 bay shed is only 30% more expensive than a 2 bay and a 4 bay is only about 20% more expensive than a 3 bay a 6 bay is only 25-30% more expensive than 4 bay.

Bells and whistles cost money and anything you can do yourself saves money. It the structure that is important in that I mean the physical tank and steel that supports the shed. Everthing else can be replaced easily enough in 30 or 40 years time. Get the tank right and galvanise the steel for RSJ's etc. Saw a shed that was build less than 25 years ago, farmer got asbestos roof, banagher slats, etc. Two issue he has now tank is too small and RSJ are very badly rusted. He got the shed off a reputable shed builder 25 years ago. IMO another 10 years and RSJ's will have to be replaced if not before that.

dzer2

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Not sure if I would wait for grant, prices rising all the time and grant spec will add to price. If using a contractor for complete job I be costing now as there prices will climb the most. Last year a 4 bay shed completed by a contractor would have cost 25-30K I imagine that this is climbing all the time.


10-15/bay sound expensive and gives a varible of 20K on a 4 bay shed. IMO at 40K a 4 bay shed would be expensive. Things to remember that extra size in tanks is often really only costing the price of the concrete and steel. A 3 bay shed is only 30% more expensive than a 2 bay and a 4 bay is only about 20% more expensive than a 3 bay a 6 bay is only 25-30% more expensive than 4 bay.

Bells and whistles cost money and anything you can do yourself saves money. It the structure that is important in that I mean the physical tank and steel that supports the shed. Everthing else can be replaced easily enough in 30 or 40 years time. Get the tank right and galvanise the steel for RSJ's etc. Saw a shed that was build less than 25 years ago, farmer got asbestos roof, banagher slats, etc. Two issue he has now tank is too small and RSJ are very badly rusted. He got the shed off a reputable shed builder 25 years ago. IMO another 10 years and RSJ's will have to be replaced if not before that.

Built one ourselves here in 87 and only changed gates to suit smaller animals in the last 3 yrs. Other than that its as good as the day it went up. Have 2 others up 20 yrs and no problem either.

Greengrass1

dzer2 wrote: »

Built one ourselves here in 87 and only changed gates to suit smaller animals in the last 3 yrs. Other than that its as good as the day it went up. Have 2 others up 20 yrs and no problem either.

A lot more in the old steel compared to new stuff.
Shed here up 55 yrs and H irons in middle only going now. Its a big shed for its time 75ft x 75ft

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

A lot more in the old steel compared to new stuff.
Shed here up 55 yrs and H irons in middle only going now. Its a big shed for its time 75ft x 75ft

Rotting away are they green

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Rotting away are they green

Ye right at the but. One already completely gone

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Ye right at the but. One already completely gone

Cows**t at it

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Cows**t at it

There used to be a feed barrier in middle of them for about 6 yrs and cow ****e was sitting around them for that length as well as it being a loose bedded shed.
Be a few more yrs before we change them though

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

There used to be a feed barrier in middle of them for about 6 yrs and cow ****e was sitting around them for that length as well as it being a loose bedded shed.
Be a few more yrs before we change them though

Amazing the power of the cows**t

gerryirl

meant to be 40% grants and 60% under 40 next year.. there is a 40% grant at the minute for organic farmers

Timmaay

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Not sure if I would wait for grant, prices rising all the time and grant spec will add to price. If using a contractor for complete job I be costing now as there prices will climb the most. Last year a 4 bay shed completed by a contractor would have cost 25-30K I imagine that this is climbing all the time.

I can't remember where I heard that the TAMS2 looks like it won't be announced until the new year now, It was originally mean to be June, then October.

mark 6910

What size shed would you want for 20 cows and 20 calves would a 5 bay single be to small

Sami23

mark 6910 wrote: »

What size shed would you want for 20 cows and 20 calves would a 5 bay single be to small

4 bay single with creep wud be plenty. 5 cows per bay and creep behind each bay for calves be perfect IMO

epfff

Sami23 wrote: »

4 bay single with creep wud be plenty. 5 cows per bay and creep behind each bay for calves be perfect IMO

Id say 3 bays 12`6 with creep 7 cows per bay
Leave creep big eneough to use as calfing pen (12`)with big step up(9") and a crazy fall on it (1/7)into slats to save work cleaning

Price 16` tank and slats it k ghtent cost much more

Muckit

Would you plan to not bed with your idea efff? I like the idea of the big fall, but what it the advantage to the step up off the slats? If you were bedding, could put raised timbering to keep back straw but let it weep under and into slats

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Would you plan to not bed with your idea efff? I like the idea of the big fall, but what it the advantage to the step up off the slats? If you were bedding, could put raised timbering to keep back straw but let it weep under and into slats

+1

Miname

Muckit wrote: »

Would you plan to not bed with your idea efff? I like the idea of the big fall, but what it the advantage to the step up off the slats? If you were bedding, could put raised timbering to keep back straw but let it weep under and into slats

I poured the concrete on the front of mine today. i stepped the front feed area 6" above the foot space at the front and have a fall of 2" over 18" back into the slats. At the creep part im keeping a good fall from back to front and keeping the lowest point 3" over the slats, the reason being to keep the urine flowing off to keep the bedding dry on the back, if a timber is put across the front, i might set it on brackets a couple of inches above the floor to allow a gap, in other sheds it doesnt take much to create a wet spot when dung starts to build up.

epfff

Muckit wrote: »

Would you plan to not bed with your idea efff? I like the idea of the big fall, but what it the advantage to the step up off the slats? If you were bedding, could put raised timbering to keep back straw but let it weep under and into slats

Not a fan of straw
Work taking in and taking out
And cost here in west
Timber/pallet in corner calfs will lie on it snug as bug in rug and it will dry itself off
Take your point on the step if bedding
But refer to above for my attitude to straw a timber will stop shir from going back down to tank

Ps im a partimer that is very efficiant with my time I also gave up the sucklers bar 10 two years ago and I dont put them in at all cows work best outside

Miname

epfff wrote: »

Not a fan of straw
Work taking in and taking out
And cost here in west
Timber/pallet in corner calfs will lie on it snug as bug in rug and it will dry itself off
Take your point on the step if bedding
But refer to above for my attitude to straw a timber will stop shir from going back down to tank

Ps im a partimer that is very efficiant with my time I also gave up the sucklers bar 10 two years ago and I dont put them in at all cows work best outside

theres a lad near me covers all his creep areas with cow matss and just scrapes them down every day, he reckons they work a treat.