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Soccer Photo's - First attempts

  • 07-05-2014 9:28am
    #1
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Entertainment Moderators Posts: 9,047 CMod ✭✭✭✭


    Started to have a go at some Sports Photography. I do not really understand the game much, so just follow the ball.

    Daytime shots with D300 but switched to D800 when under lights to use high ISO. Nikor 70/200 f2.8 & Manfrotto Monopod

    More HERE


    C&C More than welcome

    822C5FC2C8324B0BAB42CADBD695D510-0000370892-0003560315-00800L-3C472F710B114E3FA1E5A88EF2CB0C66.jpg

    B6AEEC49A668452897F62C4BA10721D8-0000370892-0003560429-00800L-59FAF74EB9144D338A04AE233D395D8B.jpg

    3554B4C9173B4CF1BB0726D2FEB9C830-0000370892-0003560430-00800L-ACB5B2A5051F457CAD7F009AB7AFBFCC.jpg

    58F58AEBE7424102B5D2D61F6AB0F58C-0000370892-0003560421-00800L-18185E8481A74C3BA98005CCB82E00BD.jpg

    13356E3AEEFE4B58A0DD68651E9666CB-0000370892-0003560417-00800L-C8C3C79BCD1142B3BB13CB6B81F5579E.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,516 ✭✭✭jonneymendoza


    1 is good. mice one. some of the shots you need to shoot faster IMO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,273 ✭✭✭twowheelsonly


    Definitely need to up the speed for the night shots. Absolute minimum of 600, more if you can get away with it. Movement showing of the ball can be fine but you need to freeze the players as much as you can.
    Stop it down to 2.8 or 4 at the very least, I note that some of yours at least are at 4.8 which is quite high. I'd nearly always go 2.8 at night and 4 during the daytime.
    Other than that it's just the usual - face in every photo (unless it's something highly unusual) and a bit of interest for the viewer. And crop, crop crop.. The D800 will certainly give you plenty of scope for that.

    Shot 1 of those would be my favourite as well. The others just have too much movement for me and don't look like they were taken by top of the line equipment. Try cropping number 2 some more and boosting the contrast. Probably the best of the rest.

    Good luck with it and enjoy. It's all a learning curve and probably more-so when you're not a 'football person'. Don't forget managers, supporters, subs etc. They can all make for some interesting photos as well. Even the ref!!!


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Entertainment Moderators Posts: 9,047 CMod ✭✭✭✭CabanSail


    2.8 was shooting with just the lens, 4.8 was with the 1.7 TC fitted.

    Was trying to keep the shutter speeds up but it was really quite dull under the lights.

    Lots harder than it looks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,273 ✭✭✭twowheelsonly


    Drop the extender and stick with what you have.
    It's all speed/light compromise so you have to get the speed as high as you can at night games (and the DOF will give your photos more 'punch' as well.
    Pick a quarter of the pitch, place yourself behind the endlines and shoot away at anything in or around that section of pitch.
    Endlines are better than sidelines as you'll get more face on rather than side face photos which tend to look better. Sidelines are probably better for some photos but overall endlines tend to be better. In amateur games you can generally move around anyway so you can cover all positions over the course of a game.
    If you're going on the sideline then 15-20 yards from the endline is about the best place to be, with the halfway line probably the worst place to be - too far from the goals and too may players between you and any goalmouth action.

    It's never an exact science but hopefully those few tips will help a little.


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