Immersion switch

galwaydude18

The on off part of the old immersion switch broke so I bought a new immersion switch yesterday. The new one has extra places for wires to go into. Seven places in total for wires where as the old one only had 5 places and only 5 wires as well.

I wired up the new one according to positions they were in the old one and when I turn it onto either sink or bath it's not heating the water.

There is a live in the output in the new one and the old one only had a neutral out. I only have a neutral out wired into the new one. There is also one more place for a wire and cant figure what to wire into it.

The first pic is how the old one was wired up and the second pic is the new switch and how I have it wired up. The led light comes on and I have power in the live input side but don't seem to have power in the live side where I put the bath and sink wires into.

Can anyone tell me what I have done wrong please?

Bruthal

You need a link between the L out and the other free terminal on the switch.

Looking at the connection, you have strands sticking out and nearly touching between sink and bath connection. They should be removed and tidied up either by twisting neatly, or cutting, stripping and twisting neatly. They look like they are doubled up by bending the stripped copper back on itself which is OK, but were stuffed into terminals that were not properly opened fully.

The neutral out is also showing signs of being burnt. It should be cut and re connected probably.

corner of hells

I think you should ask an electrician to come to your house, I'm conscious of the scorching on one of your connections and the fraying and loose ends on other connections.

I'm an electrician with over twenty years experience and realisticly your gambling by not knowing that switch works.

A badly made connection leaves you vulnerable to arcing and scorching , never mind the risk of poor earthing.

galwaydude18

So do I just put a single piece of wire between the place beside the live and neutral input and the live out? I'll tidy up those wires as well. Thats how they were in the old switch.

galwaydude18

I have replaced the cooker switch already a few weeks ago and it's working fine. I'm just wondering do I need to put another wire in the places where I don't have any wires.

galwaydude18

Got it working guys. I connected a small piece of 2.5 square cable between the two terminals that had no wire for them and its working now.

Bruthal

As mentioned though, most non electrical people will assume that once its working, it must be right. Burnt neutral and badly made connections as per the frayed connections in the photo, are not great.

maxfresh

too much copper showing in those connections and blackened neutral wire needs to be reterminated

mickdw

Just as an aside, I never can believe how loose switch terminal connections are anytime I change an old light switch or socket. In general they seem to be dangerously loose.
How does this happen? Surely electricians are not leaving them that way.

galwaydude18

I always tighten the terminals very tight. I had an electrician on a site one time tell me one of the biggest causes of electrical fires is caused by not tightening the terminals very tightly.

tomdempsey200

I worked with a very good electrician from the UK

only thing was he didn't tighten connections..I had to have a word with him about it

as for diyers..connections are pretty much guaranteed to be loose

other side of it...fellas damaging solid cables with screws

Bruthal

Ideally immersion flexes would be terminated in ferules probably.

tomdempsey200

Bruthal wrote: »

Ideally immersion flexes would be terminated in ferules probably.

I would think twisting and doubling the flex is a better connection than a ferrule here

maxfresh

tomdempsey200 wrote: »

I worked with a very good electrician from the UK

only thing was he didn't tighten connections..I had to have a word with him about it

as for diyers..connections are pretty much guaranteed to be loose

other side of it...fellas damaging solid cables with screws

when i was taught in tech we were told to really tighten the connections and in the practical exam the instructors would tug all your connections if the came out its a fail.
In all my years sparking (15) ive never damaged a cable tightening it good and tight,
I have seen the damage from loose connections plenty. Just my 2 cents

Bruthal

tomdempsey200 wrote: »

I would think twisting and doubling the flex is a better connection than a ferrule here

I wouldn't be as sure myself about that. Once many fine strands are in use such as with flexes, many of them won't be well clamped by a screw even when doubled. Inside a crimped ferule would be more reliable IMO. Although I use the twist and doubling myself usually.

maxfresh

Bruthal wrote: »

I wouldn't be as sure myself about that. Once many fine strands are in use such as with flexes, many of them won't be well clamped by a screw even when doubled. Inside a crimped ferule would be more reliable IMO. Although I use the twist and doubling myself usually.

Must get a few packs of ferrules meself

tomdempsey200

maxfresh wrote: »

Must get a few packs of ferrules meself

i started using them a few years back

they make a tidy job of flexible connections

are they a regulation for flexibles in distribution boards or does it just say all strands must be in the terminal?
I looked it up before but I can't remember