Cold Setting a Steel Frame

Jemm

Hi all,

I have an eighties steel frame racer and have had great difficulty putting on the back wheel of my bike after a puncture. As I bought the bike second hand, I assumed that it had been damaged by a previous owner but I read this article over the weekend (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html) so I'm guessing I could ask a mechanic to stretch the frame and my bike will be hassle free for punctures? Has anyone ever tried it? Or would it be better to try and track down a narrower hub to fit into the space?

Thanks

Alek

Its easy.

As a matter of fact it is too easy to bend dropouts more that you'd want. Done this, had to bend back ;-)

The key is to apply a little force, but alternately and evenly on each dropout. And check the spacing often while doing this.

I've used the plank method:



After you think its alright, measure the symmetry:

thebikeman.ie

Alek is right nothing too difficult about resetting a steel frame. But DCR Wheels in Sussex are another option they have 126 mm hubs in stock and will build wheels with them.
http://dcrwheels.co.uk/products/hubs/new-old-stock-hubs/

krissovo

I have done 3 now, I bought a 3ft length of 4mm threaded stud from B&Q, nuts and some oversize washers and used it to pull the frame apart by applying equal turns of the nuts.

Its kind of scary how far you have to bend the frame before the spring in the steel settles at the correct space.

gman2k

But.... After spreading the stays, your derailleur hanger now needs to be realigned! That's not a DIY job.

Mycroft H

If you've a really good eye you can do the dropouts with an adjustable. It's got me out of trouble.

But it's nice to do it right with the right tool. Reduces the stress on the axle.

CramCycle

Well I feel stupid, I just stretched mine by hand and jammed the wheel in, never had an issue. Went back to a narrower wheel many months later and just over tightened the bolts to pull it back in.

Mycroft H

CramCycle wrote: »

Well I feel stupid, I just stretched mine by hand and jammed the wheel in, never had an issue. Went back to a narrower wheel many months later and just over tightened the bolts to pull it back in.

I've heard of ancedotal evidence of people snapping chain stays after just squeezing a larger wheel in, I don't know if there is any truth to it, perhaps your always putting the stay in the elastic range rather than setting it beyond it.

Alek

Snapping a steel rear triangle, bending it by 5-10mm? Unpossible

Much more likely with alu or carbon.

CramCycle

Mycroft H wrote: »

I don't know if there is any truth to it, perhaps your always putting the stay in the elastic range rather than setting it beyond it.

Alek wrote: »

Snapping a steel rear triangle, bending it by 5-10mm? Unpossible

Probably just within the measurements Alek gave, I just find it unlikely that Steel would just snap unless there were other problems inside the frame (severe rust etc.). I would have thought it would more likely bend outside of its elastic range and permanently deform before it would snap if there were no other issues. Maybe back and forth a few times would cause it to warp and eventually break.

gman2k

Alek wrote: »

Snapping a steel rear triangle, bending it by 5-10mm? Unpossible

Much more likely with alu or carbon.

You're only pushing each stay out by 2mm!

Alek

Steel is springy, you need to push more to get permanent 2mm extra.

Jemm

Thanks for all the info. I'm still a bit worried about moving the steel out in case I move one side more than the other and the bike ends up a bit wonky. Think I'll try getting in touch with the guy thebikeman.ie mentioned about the smaller width back wheel.

gman2k

Jemm wrote: »

Thanks for all the info. I'm still a bit worried about moving the steel out in case I move one side more than the other and the bike ends up a bit wonky. Think I'll try getting in touch with the guy thebikeman.ie mentioned about the smaller width back wheel.

If the frame is nothing special, I'd be cold setting it!
Another option is to use a car jack between the dropouts, and spread them that way.

Mycroft H

gman2k wrote: »

If the frame is nothing special, I'd be cold setting it!
Another option is to use a car jack between the dropouts, and spread them that way.

What spacing is it? 120mm? 126mm?

I'd space it so you can use a lovely freehub setup rather than a potentially axle snapping freewheel setup. They're far superior.

Chances are anything you buy will be a freewheel unless its a top end old wheel with a 126mm 7sp free hub.

Jemm

I'll need to check the spacing but read a post on a forum from a person with the same bike who said they were 126mm