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Retrofitting Concrete T-Beams

  • 01-04-2014 2:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭


    Renovating a house at the moment and need to replace the existing timber joists.

    Going to use T-Beams and have got a number of suggestions on this. Was thinking of just notching wall where we need to put new beam in, or have also been advised to bolt a length of angle onto each wall and leave beam sit on this.

    Has anybody done this before - or have any recommendations? Structural engineer will be involved, but is on holidays at the moment and wanted to have a couple of suggestions to run past him.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    Do you mind me asking why you're going with a T Beam? Why not an RSJ on a pad stone?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭tedimc


    Hi, I could use an RSJ alright, but thought this would work out far more expensive and be just as much work? Also, what would I use to fill between them with?

    I have to replace each timber joist - so each room has 8-12 joists.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    OK. If I was doing this in my house ...... I'd render the top 18" of each wall and rule it straight (mix 3:1). After the render has gone I'd chalk line both walls level to the bottom of the T-Beam (making sure that both chalk lines were also level with each other). Then about a week later I'd drill a pre-holed angle iron to come level with the chalk and fix the bolts with epoxy.

    Your engineer may advise another route. It's a pretty basic job but needs to be done right.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭tedimc


    Thanks WilyCoyote - was thinking of doing this alright - but just got a cost there for 100*100*10mm angle of £4.20 per foot. Which works out fairly steep when doing ~70meters. Also, pre-drilling is extra on top of that.

    I might end up going this route, but to be honest, notch the wall and sitting the T-Beam in looks like the easiest and cheapest route at the moment.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    If too steep why not bolt 6" x 2" spruce/Douglas fir (or suchlike) to the render and notch the joists to the wall plate - making allowances for the different height with the render/chalkline.


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