Brake drum removal

kkelly77

In the process of replacing the brake drums and shoes but of course drums are not coming off.

Do I need to remove the dust cap and internal nut or should the drum just come off? Online manual says it should. Photo attached.

CJhaughey

You need to remove the Torx screw at 1 O'Clock then take a big hammer and give the drum a good pounding all around it.
This should loosen the drum enough to remove it, if it has a big lip worn it may need additional persuasion...

bigroad

You have to get the screw out of the break drum.Then with a hammer tap or hit the face/front of the break drum.If the screw wont come out you will have to drill it out.
At the back of the hub/drum there should be an inspection hole.Usually you can adjust the shoes from there to slacken them off amd release the drum.Make sure your handbreak is released.

kkelly77

Sorry, should have said Torx screw is out. Have given the drum a good hammering and lots of brake cleaner, no joy.

So in theory there should be no need to remove the dust cap and hub nut?

CJhaughey

The hub is separate from the drum.
Leave the nut and dust cap alone.
Have you got a decent hammer? Not a wimpy little hardware hammer a good 2lb hammer.
You need to give it a good belting on the outside edge of the drum, they seize on place because of corrosion and the only way to break them free is to make them move through brute force.
Brake cleaner will do nothing its only to clean the inside of the drum and shoes.
Bash it at 12 oclock, then 6, 9, 3 until you can see the drum shift when you hit it.
Don't be shy they need a lot of force.

bigroad

After hammering,grab the drum at 9 and 3 o clock and try and spin and pull towards you.then get two big flathead screwdrivers and put in behind the drum to lever it over the shoes.Keep repeating.If no luck try and find the inspection hole at the back.Dont give UP.

kkelly77

Got it!!!

Just hammered the face again and used good ol Betsy to prise off. Thanks for the help lads.

bigroad

If you can get some sandpaper and give the lip on the drum a rup around it will help it out a bit for replacing.Well done.

kkelly77

FYI, drums weren't seized and could spin freely.

I was dubious about prying off with screwdrivers as it seemed like the back plate would give before the drum would.

bigroad wrote: »

If you can get some sandpaper and give the lip on the drum a rup around it will help it out a bit for replacing.Well done.

I'm replacing the drums too, as well as new spring kit, so just need to clean the inside of the new drum with brake cleaner to get the anti corrosion gear off.

kkelly77

Got the job finished but unfortunately lost all day light.

Bit of an issue with the last drum. When I put it on, there was a little resistance and drum could spin. However, when I put the torx screw in, the drum became extremely difficult to turn. I have the adjuster set to it's minimal setting (drum would only go over the shoes at this setting. Same on the other side too). Also, the hand brake is nearly coming up to a vertical position so will need adjusting.

As I ran out of light, I had no time to troubleshoot. Will have to leave it til tomorrow. Had a quick spin. Car is stopping but I'm getting a noticable squeaking/rubbing sound from drivers side drum. Bit of a burning smell after the drive too. :rolleyes:

Is it normal for the adjusters to have to be wound all the way back? And that the hand brake would need that much adjustment?

bigroad

Did you put brand new drums on with new shoes.

kkelly77

bigroad wrote: »

Did you put brand new drums on with new shoes.

Yeah. New shoes, drums and spring kit.

bigroad

Sounds like something offline .The shoes must be sitting off the back plate .If they are on right the drum shud be able to spin with using your hands.Sometimes you have to take the drums on and off to adjust the shoes up.
to do it by the book the handbreak cable should slackened off either under the car or inside at handbreak before the new shoes are fitted .You will probably have to wait till tomorrow so you can see what the problem is.

bigroad

yea it sound like the drivers side shoes are to tight.If the adjuster is back all the way then get some sand paper and give the shoes a rub down till the drum turns.It doesent have to be totally free wheeling a tiny amount of resistance is ok.Then when you adjust your hand break lift the car again and make sure the drums are turning after pulling the handbreak a few times.

kkelly77

I'll have to wait til tomorrow to take a look.

Odd that the drivers side drum spins fine but tightens up with the Torx screw in place.

CJhaughey

kkelly77 wrote: »

I'll have to wait til tomorrow to take a look.

Odd that the drivers side drum spins fine but tightens up with the Torx screw in place.

Check the mounting surface is clean and no rust has fallen down between the hub face and the new drum.

martyc5674

I had this prob with a camper... Would bind when tightened drum to hub...the brake cylinder was seized on one side.
With the pistons held between your fingers both should move in and out against each other freely.
Marty.

MercMad

You could also chamfer the edges of the new shoes. Sometimes new shoes are slightly thicker, different shape than the factory ones. I generally always chamfer the edges either way. Also check that you have them located correctly on the back plate, and of course that the parts you have are correct.

What car is it BTW ?

kkelly77

MercMad wrote: »

You could also chamfer the edges of the new shoes. Sometimes new shoes are slightly thicker, different shape than the factory ones. I generally always chamfer the edges either way. Also check that you have them located correctly on the back plate, and of course that the parts you have are correct.

What car is it BTW ?

Vauxhall Combo

Turns out I had the non parking brake shoes on the wrong wheels :rolleyes: D'oh