Grant Euroflame 50/90 Boiler

Lex Luthor

Hello I have a Grant 50/90 Kerosene Boiler with a Minor 1 Burner that I have had in the house since 1996.

Had a few issues with it like most boiler/bunrners but 9 times out of ten I have been able to fix them myself.

And probably with a bit of TLC I can keep it running for many years to come.

Because anybody that I have contacted to service it wont touch the burner, I typically do this bit myself every year. Replace the nozzle, clean the photocell, clean the electrodes and gap them and set the pressure in the pump before putting the "snorkel" box back on.

Then I get a service guy out to do all the rest, clean out the boiler and baffles and check emmissions, etc

However, I am just wondering if I should think about replacing it for a physically smaller and more efficient model that is easier to maintain. The snorkel box is a pain to get on & off and I'd like something a bit more user friendly.

Still sticking with kerosene, can anyone recommend an option for me and rough costs?

Thanks in advance

Dtp1979

Lex Luthor wrote: »

Hello I have a Grant 50/90 Kerosene Boiler with a Minor 1 Burner that I have had in the house since 1996.

Had a few issues with it like most boiler/bunrners but 9 times out of ten I have been able to fix them myself.

And probably with a bit of TLC I can keep it running for many years to come.

Because anybody that I have contacted to service it wont touch the burner, I typically do this bit myself every year. Replace the nozzle, clean the photocell, clean the electrodes and gap them and set the pressure in the pump before putting the "snorkel" box back on.

Then I get a service guy out to do all the rest, clean out the boiler and baffles and check emmissions, etc

However, I am just wondering if I should think about replacing it for a physically smaller and more efficient model that is easier to maintain. The snorkel box is a pain to get on & off and I'd like something a bit more user friendly.

Still sticking with kerosene, can anyone recommend an option for me and rough costs?

Thanks in advance

I'd say lads are avoiding servicing it because an unqualified engineer had it half serviced

Lex Luthor

Dtp1979 wrote: »

I'd say lads are avoiding servicing it because an unqualified engineer had it half serviced

Absolutely not correct

I called many companies, all said no way would they look at it. They didnt want to touch the burner due to the blue box surrounding it. Everyone that came to see it suggested replacing it for a different one without the box.

I'm a qualified engineer but not in oil burners but I know my way around them and have been in the service industry for more than 20yrs

TPM

Any of the service lads I know would have no problem servicing a minor 1 burner and the grant boiler is one of the common ones in this country.
Personally I think the minor 1 is a great burner.

I would agree with dpt its generally all or nothing with servicing, generally no one would or should part service a boiler/burner unit.

a newer grant vortex physically wont be much different in size.
As for user friendly, the end user should have very little to do with the boiler, turn it on or off or press the burner or overtemp stat in the event of a lockout/trip, but this really shouldnt happen.

The newer boilers would be more efficient.

I am sure one of the lads on here would be close to your area and would service and access the boiler and installation.

scudo2

Grant / Eco-flam burners are an easy burner to work on when your use to them. Even though most are replaced by now I'd still do 1or2 a week .

Blue box type are rare, I've only 3 customers with them still.
But not a problem either.

jimf

scudo2 wrote: »

Grant / Eco-flam burners are an easy burner to work on when your use to them. Even though most are replaced by now I'd still do 1or2 a week .

Blue box type are rare, I've only 3 customers with them still.
But not a problem either.

would agree scudo but those grub screws that hold in the blast tube can be a right b

an old oil guy that used to live near me advised me when I started to change them if they started acting up 1 hiccup and out they come and in go a nice new shiny riello

ive never come across 1 as described above

scudo2

jimf wrote: »

would agree scudo but those grub screws that hold in the blast tube can be a right b

an old oil guy that used to live near me advised me when I started to change them if they started acting up 1 hiccup and out they come and in go a nice new shiny riello

ive never come across 1 as described above

Hi Jim
They had no air band on the right. It was removed.
Instead it relied on the metal flap on the air intake on the box. It would look like a SUPER Q with an air hose direct onto box with adjustable shutter.

"Grants" first attempt at a room sealed, before burners had a direct air hose attachment.
A pain in the ass to get right without major vibration noise.

Lex Luthor

to be honest guys, once I get the blue box off, the burner itself is handy enough to work on. I've probably replaced most components on the burner apart from the motor and control box. The burner itself is still a well maintained unit. I just dont have the equip and training to set up the emmissions.
the fact that I am using approx. 1800litres of kerosene a year in a 5 bed semi, I'm wondering if I can get a more efficient unit and something quieter aswell as its in the utility room below my eldests room.

scudo2

Lex Luthor wrote: »

to be honest guys, once I get the blue box off, the burner itself is handy enough to work on. I've probably replaced most components on the burner apart from the motor and control box. The burner itself is still a well maintained unit. I just dont have the equip and training to set up the emmissions.
the fact that I am using approx. 1800litres of kerosene a year in a 5 bed semi, I'm wondering if I can get a more efficient unit and something quieter aswell as its in the utility room below my eldests room.

1, it should be whisper quite, sound no higher than a fridge if serviced properly.

2. Your doing the service yourself and getting idiots to confirm it and collect money off you ! ( no offence intended )

3 What are the combustion analiser readings after so call service ?
O2 should be 5-6%
Co2 11.5-12%
Co less than 50pm.
????

4 Check all seals around box, top basket and flue for escaping noise + dangerous fumes

5. Professional servicing saves lives and fuel !

6. get a professional who will give you a bolliking, for doing DIY and employing idiots.

7. "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing "


No offense from him or me intended !


ps. What area do you live in and maybe we can recommend somebody ?

Lex Luthor

I'm in naas

agusta

Lex Luthor wrote: »

to be honest guys, once I get the blue box off, the burner itself is handy enough to work on. I've probably replaced most components on the burner apart from the motor and control box. The burner itself is still a well maintained unit. I just dont have the equip and training to set up the emmissions.
the fact that I am using approx. 1800litres of kerosene a year in a 5 bed semi, I'm wondering if I can get a more efficient unit and something quieter aswell as its in the utility room below my eldests room.[/QUOT
In my opinion you have two options,A/ Do what scudo has said,you might need new bearing in the motor too if they havent been done since new.B/buy a new grant vortex.The grant vortex will at least be 15 to 20 percent more efficient than you boiler.It would cost somewhere between 2k and 2.5k depending on your set up.approx savings per year 300 euro.

Lex Luthor

agusta wrote: »

Lex Luthor wrote: »

to be honest guys, once I get the blue box off, the burner itself is handy enough to work on. I've probably replaced most components on the burner apart from the motor and control box. The burner itself is still a well maintained unit. I just dont have the equip and training to set up the emmissions.
the fact that I am using approx. 1800litres of kerosene a year in a 5 bed semi, I'm wondering if I can get a more efficient unit and something quieter aswell as its in the utility room below my eldests room.[/QUOT
In my opinion you have two options,A/ Do what scudo has said,you might need new bearing in the motor too if they havent been done since new.B/buy a new grant vortex.The grant vortex will at least be 15 to 20 percent more efficient than you boiler.It would cost somewhere between 2k and 2.5k depending on your set up.approx savings per year 300 euro.

ok thanks for the info

regarding bearing, have already replaced this and it was on my to do list for this summer to replace again if I was keeping it

scudo2

Lex Luthor wrote: »

agusta wrote: »

ok thanks for the info

regarding bearing, have already replaced this and it was on my to do list for this summer to replace again if I was keeping it

3in1 down the motor or copper grease.

Lex Luthor

agusta wrote: »

.B/buy a new grant vortex.The grant vortex will at least be 15 to 20 percent more efficient than you boiler.It would cost somewhere between 2k and 2.5k depending on your set up.approx savings per year 300 euro.

i have weighed up my options and looking at replacing the 18 yr old boiler with a grant vortex. looking at prices online, how do i know which one i need?

its for a utilty room to replace the existing 50-90kBtu/hr unit so do i just get identical spec for vortex?
house is a 5 bed semi 1500sq ft if that helps. 12 rads and a heated towel rail

agusta

Lex Luthor wrote: »

i have weighed up my options and looking at replacing the 18 yr old boiler with a grant vortex. looking at prices online, how do i know which one i need?

its for a utilty room to replace the existing 50-90kBtu/hr unit so do i just get identical spec for vortex?
house is a 5 bed semi 1500sq ft if that helps. 12 rads and a heated towel rail

Grant Vortex Condensing Indoor Boiler.Your plumber will have to size your boiler to suit your house.It looks like you will need the 50-90.Either way the boiler will have to be set at the correct output to suit your house

scudo2

+1 on the 90 Vortex.

On line prices are not the cheapest.
Try Grant for local supplier list.

Persionaly I'm not a fan of indoor boilers.
I often go home with no grey hair !

JR1210

Where can you buy parts for the Minor 1 Burner?
The Gasket fell apart when I took the burner off and a few people I rang said you wouldnt get parts for these anymore
The cone is very brittle and could do it replacement as well as the nozzle and gasket
Would it be wiser to put the money to a new burner for the Euroflame 50/90?

agusta

JR1210 wrote: »

Where can you buy parts for the Minor 1 Burner?
The Gasket fell apart when I took the burner off and a few people I rang said you wouldnt get parts for these anymore
The cone is very brittle and could do it replacement as well as the nozzle and gasket
Would it be wiser to put the money to a new burner for the Euroflame 50/90?

http://www.franklfahy.com/Contact.html ,This plumber merchant can get minor 1 parts, special order though.They will also post them to you,or you could try these http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/ProductByGroup.asp?PrGrp=2130,
It probally could be wiser to get a new burner if you could afford it.Why,It wont give trouble if its set up properly,Parts can be got over the counter.You will have to get the correct burner with the correct blast tube/nozzle to suit you boiler though.Then set up with a pressure gauge and flue gas analyser for correct output and maximum efficiency

scudo2

FIREBIRD do all parts for Eco-flam Minor 1 burners (Grant)

I still service 2 or 3 a week.
Gasket / flange is universal.

Parts are not a problem. I carry all parts. For my own use only.

kscobie

Minor 1 parts are available still, Ganley's in Athlone got me a Suntec oil pump from Grant only on Tuesday

JR1210

Thanks for the update
The blast tube has fallen apart and looking online they are up near 100 euro, so changing all the parts it would probably be best getting a reconditioned burner thats a few years younger

scudo2

JR1210 wrote: »

Thanks for the update
The blast tube has fallen apart and looking online they are up near 100 euro, so changing all the parts it would probably be best getting a reconditioned burner thats a few years younger

No such thing as re-conditioned burner.
Only re-cleaned and maybe new nozzle !!

€100 for blast tube is crazy. (€35 MAX)

Due to age of burner, get a new one.

scudo2

kscobie wrote: »

Minor 1 parts are available still, Ganley's in Athlone got me a Suntec oil pump from Grant only on Tuesday

Danfoss R3 will also do as a replacement and is a better pump.

JR1210

scudo2 wrote: »

No such thing as re-conditioned burner.
Only re-cleaned and maybe new nozzle !!

€100 for blast tube is crazy. (€35 MAX)

Due to age of burner, get a new one.

I wouldn't have thought it would cost that much but if you google ecoflam 115 tube they start at 65 pounds plus postage
Where would I get one for 35?

scudo2

JR1210 wrote: »

I wouldn't have thought it would cost that much but if you google ecoflam 115 tube they start at 65 pounds plus postage
Where would I get one for 35?

Any good service engineer will supply, fit new (or perfect second hand) blast tube, service and tune up your boiler for best efficiency and safety.
I myself have 10 or 12 new in stock, (not for sale) but for my own servicing use.

There is a reason your blast tube disintegrated. Bad dangerous flame that was also producing dangerous fumes.

kscobie

scudo2 wrote: »

Danfoss R3 will also do as a replacement and is a better pump.

Always preferred the Danfoss oil pumps too!