Buying a bike: does brand matter

LaGlisse

Hi All,
In the market for a roadbike for Tris, max i can stretch to is E1200, just get confused with all the numbers when i look at bike specs, have very little knowledge re bikes. I'm 6"1 what are the specs that matter? Is it worth going second hand or is it risky? What brands are good in that price range? Thanks for any help

Kurt Godel

LaGlisse wrote: »

Hi All,
In the market for a roadbike for Tris, max i can stretch to is E1200, just get confused with all the numbers when i look at bike specs, have very little knowledge re bikes. I'm 6"1 what are the specs that matter? Is it worth going second hand or is it risky? What brands are good in that price range? Thanks for any help

At that sort of price you should expect aluminium frame with carbon forks, and Ultegra group parts. I got a Beone Mistral Race a couple of years back, delighted with it for the money. There's one on ChainReaction for €1,280- its too small for you, but might give you an idea of components.

Bear in mind you'll have to shell out for clip-in pedals (and shoes) too, and probably aerobars if you're bringing a road bike to Tri's. Maybe you can do Bike-to-Work and get the new bike 52% off?

LaGlisse

Kurt Godel wrote: »

At that sort of price you should expect aluminium frame with carbon forks, and Ultegra group parts. I got a Beone Mistral Race a couple of years back, delighted with it for the money. There's one on ChainReaction for €1,280- its too small for you, but might give you an idea of components.

Bear in mind you'll have to shell out for clip-in pedals (and shoes) too, and probably aerobars if you're bringing a road bike to Tri's. Maybe you can do Bike-to-Work and get the new bike 52% off?

Have to wait 2 years before i can use Bike to work again (used it for a mountain bike (since sold) first time round. Not sure about aerobars yet either seeing as it will be my first tri season, would that involve having to change the bike setup (saddle angle etc) every time i want to switch between road and tri setup?

mossym

i'd go a different way, I'd usually prioritise the frame over the gears, so would go carbon with 105 rather than alu with ultegra as KG suggested. it's easy enough to upgrade drive train components afterwards if you need to, and 105 is as close as you'll need to ultegra

there is another option, which i'd suggest might be a better bet for you

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSLPULT2/planet-x-pro-carbon-shimano-ultegra-road-bike

carbon with ultegra, and gets some decent reviews,

StaggerLee

At that budget brand doesnt matter all that much, they are all good, you'll get more bang for your buck with certain brands though, for example, Canyon, planetx, Cube.
Go for the bike you like best, if you can get a carbon bike with 105 within budget, happy days. I prefer to go to my LBS (assuming you have a good one) rather than going online when buying a bike. Its good to be able to go back to them for servicing and general questions, of which there'll be lots.

The bike will need to be adjusted between road and tri positions if thats what you want to do. You'll need a bikefit, your LBS might do it for free if you buy the bike there. If you're nice to them they'll set you up in both positions and you can adjust it yourself as you go, just mark down where everything is supposed to be.

mirrormatrix

I would agree with MossyM that you should prioritise the frame. Don't know about carbon vs aluminium though, I don't think it's as clear cut a choice as it used to be in terms of the difference in lightness/stiffness between low end carbon and high end aluminium.

Why is that Planet X bike so bloody heavy? Is it the wheelset? 8kg isn't substantially lighter than most similarly specced aluminium bikes.

tunney

mossym wrote: »

i'd go a different way, I'd usually prioritise the frame over the gears, so would go carbon with 105 rather than alu with ultegra as KG suggested. it's easy enough to upgrade drive train components afterwards if you need to, and 105 is as close as you'll need to ultegra

there is another option, which i'd suggest might be a better bet for you

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSLPULT2/planet-x-pro-carbon-shimano-ultegra-road-bike

carbon with ultegra, and gets some decent reviews,

Also gets absolutely ripped apart left right and certain too.

pgibbo

I've bought 2 secondhand roadies at that price point if not slightly cheaper and both were carbon with Dura-Ace. I'd got that route over new. Not for everyone but has worked well for me. I also bought them from my LBS.

mossym

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Don't know about carbon vs aluminium though, I don't think it's as clear cut a choice as it used to be in terms of the difference in lightness/stiffness between low end carbon and high end aluminium.
.

i'd agree with that, the canyon alu frame for example i'd take above most entry level carbon bikes. one of the reasons for saying the planetx is they have a shop in ireland though and the op doesn't sound like they would be interested in taking on much maintenance themselves

i'd say for example this is a better buy, but you're not going to have the benefit of a shop behind you

http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3193


in fact, the one alu bike that probably impressed me more than anything, and would come with the shop backup was the cannondale caad 8, someone i know has one and it's a cracking bike. that would be a decent option, and available from an lbs.

tunney wrote: »

Also gets absolutely ripped apart left right and certain too.

fitting ultegra in at that price point does mean it's not a top of the line carbon frame,but any of the reviews i have read have been positive, so can only go on those.

tunney

mossym wrote: »

i'd agree with that, the canyon alu frame for example i'd take above most entry level carbon bikes. one of the reasons for saying the planetx is they have a shop in ireland though and the op doesn't sound like they would be interested in taking on much maintenance themselves

i'd say for example this is a better buy, but you're not going to have the benefit of a shop behind you

http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3193


in fact, the one alu bike that probably impressed me more than anything, and would come with the shop backup was the cannondale caad 8, someone i know has one and it's a cracking bike. that would be a decent option, and available from an lbs.

Have a 9 year old CAAD9 - excellent bike

mossym wrote: »

fitting ultegra in at that price point does mean it's not a top of the line carbon frame,but any of the reviews i have read have been positive, so can only go on those.

Tritalk I am guessing. Or a british bike mag

mossym

tunney wrote: »

Have a 9 year old CAAD9 - excellent bike





Tritalk I am guessing. Or a british bike mag

nope, there are some owners on here over in the cycling section. i also met someone with one of these on a spin just before xmas and he couldn't speak highly enough about it. he'd upgraded from a giant and said it was a huge step up. in my book anything is a step up from a giant (entry level models at least) but he seemed genuinely impressed with it and from a quick look over it seemed an alright machine.

on reflection i still wouldn't recommend the canyon for the op unless he has a friend or a an lbs who will work on it for him, even though i;d rate it highest among the bikes i mentioned. if there are those negative comments about the planetx it's probably worth treating that with a cautious glove.

that leaves the caad from my recommendations at least. OP where are you based?

LaGlisse

Based in the NW, youre right about not wanting to get too bogged down with maintenance! Plenty food for thought here, must have a look on the cycling forum too. How much would aerobars set me back btw? Does it take a lot of adjustment to get used to cycling in the aero position?

Oryx

S/H aero bars €50 or so.

Podge83

I had the new/ s/hand dilemma recently and opted for new (I got a good deal and used Bike to work).

With second hand you are taking risks but will obviously get better value.

Also factor in a bike fit - fit is as important (if not more important) than all else. With new you would get this free, with s/h you'll have to pay (unless a stated above you get it - and do a deal at your LBS).

As pointed out above, with new, once you buy it somewhere reputable, you have the shop behind you - very important!

Regarding getting used to the aero position, get fitted properly and you will adjust easily. If the full low position is uncomfortable a fitter will take that into account and advise a gradual lowering of the bars if that suits you better. - also, as stated above a good fitter will give you a print out of the dimensions/ settings for future reference. I did this and can now maintain an aero position for as long as I want, which was a problem before (granted on my old road bike with "bolt on" aero bars).

Again, as stated above the best alu frames may be better than the worst Carbon ones - ask advise on the second hand / new bike you are buying.